[blaten22]

I've read the N/A forums and wanted some advice on some following setup's. This will be my first car i'm looking to have some fun and learn with so any input is welcomed.

I picked up a 89 Mustang with the 2.3 N/A motor. I know as of the following being done to it.

1. Blocked EGR.
2. Cam was upgraded. I think he said roller cam but i never asked what stage it was.
3. Cold Air Induction, with cone Air Filter up inside the fender.
4. It has new exhaust on it. I believe he called it a H2 exhaust. It sounds rather nice. I get told it sounds like a hyped up civic all the time and get asked whats done to it.

I want something along the lines of a street/racer setup. I'm not looking to go down the drag in 9 sec's, but if i want to play around with a buddy on the back roads i want the power there.

The questions i have are.

1. Is it worth doing everything in the N/a Section and be able to boat down the road decently or should i just poke around for a 2.3T.

2. If the 2.3T is the best option over the N/A Section, would the 5 speed tranny which i assume is stock old up ok doing the swap.

3. I have a 3.0 V6 sitting in a Astro Van collecting dust that runs fine other than a tune up is due. Has anyone attempted this and would it be considered as a cost effected upgrade? I could redo the V6 from the ground up but was curious if anyone had ever attempted it.

The current 2.3 in the Mustang has 143k on it and seems to run like a champ. Just looking to get the best bang for my dollar as having 2 kids makes attempting something like this interesting . As nice as the civic sound is, i would like something a little deeper more toward the V8 which i know won't be exact sounding but close would be nice. I thought bout just putting a tip on it but wanted more input on that as well.

Thank you all for the input and every post here i've read thus far has been really informative.

[86stangcasper]

Well first off how could you even consider putting a Chevy motor in a Stang and it not be at least 350 ci?? Second I've never had a modified n\a 2.3, but my turbo 2.3 is very quick!! Its basically stock except ported and polished heads,intake, and exhaust manifold!! I run 15 psi and can out run several V8 mustangs around my home town! So if I were in your shoes I would sell the Astro Van, buy a 2.3 turbo motor, and enjoy!!

[OHC230]

You might be surprised at how much more fun your car could be, with just 180-190 HP. As with most engines the Ford 2.3L will gain the most potential power, Turbo or N/A with some cylinder head work. Some mild porting and a good valve job would do wonders.
If you are operating on a budget, the N/A motor can make 180 HP with a cam change, some material removed from the head and a good header and exhaust system. Add a small shot of nitrous and you will have some real fun.

The stock T-5 can handle 250-300 HP, if you don't abuse it.

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by 86stangcasper Well first off how could you even consider putting a Chevy motor in a Stang and it not be at least 350 ci?? Second I've never had a modified na 2.3, but my turbo 2.3 is very quick!! Its basically stock except ported and polished heads,intake, and exhaust manifold!! I run 15 psi and can out run several V8 mustangs around my home town! So if I were in your shoes I would sell the Astro Van, buy a 2.3 turbo motor, and enjoy!!

I apologize for the Astro Van, its a Windstar. Long day at work lastnight. Would you know how much a used 2.3T normally run's so i can get a ball park figure? I'll be checking craig's list and such this evening. Thanks for the input. The car seems rather quick for whats been done to it now but i haven't done no specific racing with it to shell out numbers. This is also coming from a ex corsica owner so...

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by OHC230 You might be surprised at how much more fun your car could be, with just 180-190 HP. As with most engines the Ford 2.3L will gain the most potential power, Turbo or N/A with some cylinder head work. Some mild porting and a good valve job would do wonders. If you are operating on a budget, the N/A motor can make 180 HP with a cam change, some material removed from the head and a good header and exhaust system. Add a small shot of nitrous and you will have some real fun. The stock T-5 can handle 250-300 HP, if you don't abuse it.

This is what i was looking for as well. It would be next year probally for the 2.3T swap, but if I can get that much HP with what i have, i'll be happy with that. I was thinking of putting on the Ranger head from the N/A post. Which ranger motor would you pull the head from? I'm not up to date on ranger's power plant, as the only ranger i owned was when I was 16 and had a 2.8 carb motor..fun times .

I'm assuming the Ranger's came with 2.3's in the early 90's but wanted to double check. I was shooting for 175-200 hp so this would be in my range, and probally in my budget. Would you have any recommendations being the motor has 140k miles on it, or do you think it would hold up with those adjustments? Motor sounds strong and thus far hasn't burnt or leaked a drop of oil from what i've seen thus far. I'll be looking around for exhaust header as well, though everything from the stock exhaust head back is brand new. I'll see if i can get under the car in the A/M and see if i can identify which muffler has been installed.

[OHC230]

Here is my recipe for 175-185 HP 2.3L.

Your current 89' head, milled .060" to raise compression. Moderate clean up in valve pocket area. De-shroud the valves, roughly .125" Add a good 3 angle valve job.

Racer Walsh valve springs, call for part # or Crane valve springs Part Number 99884.

Racer Walsh Stage 1 Hyd. roller camshaft.

SPEEDFLOW Mustang II header, from Speedway motors #:
917F239V

High flow converters, if state law requires them.

3" exhaust from the header, converging to 2.5" all the way back, with your favorite muffler.

A fresh tune up.

When you can afford it, have some one burn you a chip or throw down some $$ for an Eec tuner, Tweecer, or similar tuning device.


140K is not that bad for a 2.3 in terms of wear, on the bottom end. Do a compression check first to see where you stand.

[akatagyourit]

Yes 140k isn't bad if motor has been maintained. I've seen them go 170k + with normal maintanence. Point in case my current dd is a 93 coupe. 170k on the clock. Didn't run when I bought it due to being parked so long and no gas in it. Replaced fuel pump, sending unit and tank with a spare and junk yard parts. I've got a good running 2.3 N/A motor for 800bucks. As far as turbo motor prices vary pending on the person selling it. Theres 2 guys by me in FL selling them. 1 guy has a complete motor pan to throttle body with manifold and turbo, wants 1k for it. Another wants 300 for the motor which i believe is without accessories. Really depends on what you want out of the motor.

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by OHC230 Here is my recipe for 175-185 HP 2.3L. Your current 89' head, milled .060" to raise compression. Moderate clean up in valve pocket area. De-shroud the valves, roughly .125" Add a good 3 angle valve job. Racer Walsh valve springs, call for part # or Crane valve springs Part Number 99884. Racer Walsh Stage 1 Hyd. roller camshaft. SPEEDFLOW Mustang II header, from Speedway motors #: 917F239V High flow converters, if state law requires them. 3" exhaust from the header, converging to 2.5" all the way back, with your favorite muffler. A fresh tune up. When you can afford it, have some one burn you a chip or throw down some $$ for an Eec tuner, Tweecer, or similar tuning device. 140K is not that bad for a 2.3 in terms of wear, on the bottom end. Do a compression check first to see where you stand.

Thank's for the info! I'll be printing this out in the coming days. You mention a tuner, would this or the chip be something i could install and be able to do my daily driving and tune it when i'm ready? I am going to attempt to get thing's i know i can do now and install while work is slow, and save my money for the more time consuming part of the job later. Would you add a 50 shot of noz to this setup if compression was ok on the top end or would you just go with what you have? Last question atm would be the intake. Would leaving it as it be ok with this setup?

Again apologize for any newbie questions. This will be my first car i've played with.

To add to this, I've been looking at the Tweecer website. Does anyone have experience using this product or recommendations? From what i've read the Tweecer would be easier for beginners and seem's more flexible. I've also looked at a piggy back system for $350 called a Venom 400 but seems to not support the year of my Mustang.

[OHC230]

The Tweecer is a nice unit and will do anything you need it to. All tuners have a bit of a learning curve. If it were my motor, I'd stick with 75 HP shot of NOs.

[blaten22]

I like to thank you both for your input. I'll be working on this and updating this as i do everything though it may take some time. I do have another question on the cam. The gentleman i bout the car from said he put a cam in it. I didn't doubt him about it because everything else he said was done to it he had papers for. Is there a easy way to check and see what cam i have in it currently with out pulling the entire cam out for a part number? I'm going to see if I can drum up his phone number tonight and see if he can recall it as a precaution. Hate to spend 350 bucks for a cam that might be the same as i'm getting ready to purchase.

If memory serves me i want to say he put a factory roller cam in it as all the upgrade he did to the motor he say's he did for fuel milage. I had everything he said he had done written down and will try to drum that up tonight as well.

I'll be working on the cab this weekend. Want to change the blue to black and maybe see what i can bout giving the instrument panel a face lift.

Again, thank you all for the replies.

[OHC230]

Is there a easy way to check and see what cam i have in it currently with out pulling the entire cam out for a part number?

If you pull the valve cover off, you can measure the difference between the open and close height of one of the valve spring retainers. The Ranger roller cam has about .355" lift at the valve or just under 3/8" if your just rounding off numbers.

If you have something different, Racer Walsh, Crane, Ford Motorsport, you should have .420" or close to 7/16' of lift at the spring.

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by OHC230 Is there a easy way to check and see what cam i have in it currently with out pulling the entire cam out for a part number? If you pull the valve cover off, you can measure the difference between the open and close height of one of the valve spring retainers. The Ranger roller cam has about .355" lift at the valve or just under 3/8" if your just rounding off numbers. If you have something different, Racer Walsh, Crane, Ford Motorsport, you should have .420" or close to 7/16' of lift at the spring.

Do you have a order you would do this in. I was thinking the Exhaust first but wasn't sure. Also i may be able to get my hands on a aftermarket intake cheap. Guy at work is selling his 2.3 Intake because he's decided to keep it stock. Would the intake make or break this setup?

[joker636]

i did alot of 4 cylinder work in my days the exhaust and intake are the two best things for it an engine needs to breath to make power so thats how you do it. If you do go the turbo route you wont regret it a turbo even at 6 pounds of boost feels awesome lol. good luck with your build. I'm workin on a twin turbo build just waiting to deploy so i can have the money lol well wish you luck

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by joker636 i did alot of 4 cylinder work in my days the exhaust and intake are the two best things for it an engine needs to breath to make power so thats how you do it. If you do go the turbo route you wont regret it a turbo even at 6 pounds of boost feels awesome lol. good luck with your build. I'm workin on a twin turbo build just waiting to deploy so i can have the money lol well wish you luck

I want a turbo, but i don't think a N/A would hold up to it. 6 pounds probally would be more than plenty for me but i dunno how the pistons would hold up. From what I've learned thus far, the N/A doesn't come with forged piston's like the 2.3T does. Considering I'm on a budget, I don't see a 2.3T swap coming as next tax season i'm hoping to replace the Wife's 330k mile cirrus next year. Why i'm hoping if i can get close to 200 hp with what i have i'll be more than happy with it. Just something for show and to get people's gears turning in there head when we're having fun on the weekends. I'm hoping with the post's from above with maybe adding a intake in the mix will do the job. Just trying to decide on what to do first.

[joker636]

well i'll prolly get bashed for telling this on a mustang forum but oh well i think it will help you. i did an all motor honda build with cams ignition valverain upgrade exhuast intake and msd ignition upgrade on a 2.0 block and made 211.4 to the ground. as for first thing do your exhaust and intake that is a noticible power adder in a four cylinder. the cam is what i would do next.

[86stangcasper]

Well I live in Alabama and around here you can get a good turbo donor car for a grand, or you can go the route I did and find someone selling the motor out of there car!! I bought a 2.3T out of an 88 Merkur for $360, it came with the wiring harness, turbo, ecm, and all the engine accessories. The guy I got all this from was puting a 351 in his Merkur XR4Ti, so he listed all his parts on craigslist were I made him the offer of $300 for all, we settled at $360 and I have been very satisfied!! This is a simple install and was relativelly cheaper than rebuilding my n\a 2.3!! Overall I've spent $1113 on my car and that's including the purchase of my car! So keep looking for a 2.3T and I'm sure you'll be more satisfied than with a 2.3 n\a!! Some donor cars to look for are: 84-86 Mustang GT or SVO ( these cars are rare so don't detroy one for parts), 85-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe(the most popular), a Merkur XR4Ti( not sure wat years exactly, mine 2.3T was out of an 89 model), and 84-86 Mercury Cougar XR7 (not sure of the exact yrs)!! I'm sure there are other donor cars also put these are the one I know for sure!!

[86stangcasper]

Well I live in Alabama and around here you can get a good turbo donor car for a grand, or you can go the route I did and find someone selling the motor out of there car!! I bought a 2.3T out of an 88 Merkur for $360, it came with the wiring harness, turbo, ecm, and all the engine accessories. The guy I got all this from was puting a 351 in his Merkur XR4Ti, so he listed all his parts on craigslist were I made him the offer of $300 for all, we settled at $360 and I have been very satisfied!! This is a simple install and was relativelly cheaper than rebuilding my n\a 2.3!! Overall I've spent $1113 on my car and that's including the purchase of my car! So keep looking for a 2.3T and I'm sure you'll be more satisfied than with a 2.3 n\a!! Some donor cars to look for are: 84-86 Mustang GT or SVO ( these cars are rare so don't detroy one for parts), 85-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe(the most popular), a Merkur XR4Ti( not sure wat years exactly, mine 2.3T was out of an 89 model), and 84-86 Mercury Cougar XR7 (not sure of the exact yrs)!! I'm sure there are other donor cars also put these are the one I know for sure!!

[joker636]

although you can find a deal like 89stangcasper said those are rare in my area of alabama. You should do alot of networking in your area to get to talking to people i have found all kinds of stuff by making new friends at car meets and stuff. i hope this helps you out.

[blaten22]

Few more questions. I've decided to go to the junkyard this weekend to price a ranger header. I've also priced a new intake and will be putting these in the near future. While i'm there, i'll keep a eye out for a aluminum drive shaft. Never know maybe i'll get lucky. The first thing though I am considering doing is the clutch. The gentlemen put a clutch kit in roughly a year ago from Auto Zone, and no one in my family has had good luck with them. Its the $90 kit.

Main question's I've had are the following.

1. Could anyone describe the look of the knock sensor. I think i found it but i want to be sure because its not in the haynes manual, and when i google it, I'm pulling up early 90 models. I assume you should reset the timing before you disengage this?

2. What gas octane do you recommend if you keep the knock sensor off. I currently run 89 in everything i own.

3. How often should you adjust your clutch cable. Unless i've over looked the haynes manual it doesn't say. This is my first vehicle with the cable so its new to me.

Thanks again for the info!

Joey

[OHC230]

Hey Joey, the knock sensor is located on the front side of the upper intake manifold.

I run 92 octane in my car, it is the best way to combat detonation and still run enough spark advance to make decent power.

There is no set time for adjusting the clutch, the factory clutch has a self adjusting mechanism, so if you lift the clutch pedal up as far as it will go and then push it to the floor the clutch should adjust itself.

If you are going to spend good money on a header, you would be far better off with with the Racer Walsh one.