[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

I Just finished the new exhaust on my 2.3.

Dynatech Header, 1 5/8" stepped to 1 3/4", 3" Collector

3" 45 degree mandrel bend w/3" collector flange

3" to 2.5" reducer, 2.5" exhaust into Magnaflow Muffler, turned down for now.

Short walk around, Stock:

YouTube - 89 mustang lx walk around stock exhaust

YouTube - 89 mustang lx walk around stock exhaust

A couple Revs with the Dynatech open header

YouTube - 89 mustang lx dynatech revs

YouTube - 89 mustang lx dynatech revs

The car was very extremely slow before the exhaust swap, now it's just pretty slow. The cats were plugged. The car went from 53mph in a quarter to 65mph, will now go to 6,000rpm and shifts considerably better. Tonight I Removed the intake silencer with a piece of 3" plumbing and a reducer, I only noticed it got louder, but cool, I'll leave it.

[OHC230]

It looks and sounds good! So what's next?

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

I just picked up a set of 4.10's yesterday. I cruised down the highway yesterday to Denver, I got er up to 85mph, lol It sounds better through the muffler. It's anywhere from pretty quiet to really loud at wot. I'm looking at cams, but I still haven't decided which one.

[kujavega2]

Im planning on doing the same thing....though my stock has both the egr valve hooked up and also the o2 sensor(i think) as well....where/how did you put these on the new header?

[kujavega2]

also is it advantageous to go dual exhaust or is it not necessary for a 2.3l

[OHC230]

Is it advantageous to go dual exhaust or is it not necessary for a 2.3l?


No, it only adds more weight to your car.


My car has both the EGR valve hooked up and also the o2 sensor (i think) as well....where/how did you put these on the new header?

I apologize, but a short answer just isn’t going to help you here.

Since you are here in good old Cali, we are up against some very interesting laws and some indecisive individuals who have been empowered to judge the rest of us, for wanting to alter that which God himself created, namely your engine.

In our beautiful state, you are considered a sick and despicable individual for even thinking about altering, no tampering with your engine. Shame on you, for not buying a Prius.

I’ll bet you will want to have electricity in your house next! This planet is doomed because of people like us!

Since we are all going to die anyway, we might as well have some fun. If you have read any posts on this forum, you no doubt realize that most of the headers made for the 2.3L don’t do much for making HP except for the hard core racing ones like the Shoenfeld or my favorite the Speedflow. (see link)

2.3 Ford Pinto Late Model Headers

Small variations in construction of these headers can affect the final fit in the Fox Mustang chassis. On some installations a slight bend in the fire wall may be needed for proper clearance. In California, if you try and keep within the spirit of the law, the O2 sensor location needs to be in the same spot as the factory location. O2 sensors bungs are all over the internet, but many auto parts stores and muffler shops have them as well.
They are easily welded in place. (see link)

Oxygen Sensor Bungs | StreetPerformance.com

Since no 2 installations are exactly the same, I would suggest that you mock install the header first, without destroying your current exhaust system. With the new header in place, mark a spot as close to the collector as possible for the O2 sensor. You will have to rotate the sensor to a spot where it can’t possibly contact the firewall or frame of the car under any conditions. Keep in mind that your motor twists quite a bit in the engine bay and plan accordingly. Once you have marked a spot, the O2 bung a hole can be drilled and the bung welded in place, I would check the location several times before doing this.

The EGR fitting on your existing manifold can be welded directly to the header using the same method. I had to grab an extra EGR tube from the wrecking yard to extend mine. I started by tacking the fitting to the header and then positioning the original and new lines until they overlapped. I then marked and cut the lines, then spliced them together with a weld. This really isn’t as hard as it sounds; it just takes a bit of patience.

Do not copy the pictures example for your car, it will not work. It was done for a different experiment. The lower picture (arrow) shows a good location for the O2 sensor.

The converters are a different story all together. I can cover those in a different post.

[kujavega2]

wow cali sucks! thanks for the detailed help, I figured it would come down to that...also my stock piping is 2" so going to 2.5" will help out too...from the pics are there any pros or cons to turning down after the muffler compared to following the original and going over the axel towards the back?

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

I Put My o2 where the red arrow points lol it was the easiest place when it was on the car, i just found random fittings and plugged off my egr. The exhaust under the car makes a bit more noise in the car, and might make it smell a little in the car, it did in my 97, but i havent noticed in my fox, just the noise, i plan on putting it out the back one of these days.

[i-bought-a-v6]

some of your fours are actually faster than my 02 6,
How do you justify spending money on a 21 year old 4 cylinder car?

[OHC230]

How do you justify spending money on a 21 year old 4 cylinder car?

That is a really good question.

I could say that the end justifies the means and leave it at that......or I could put it another way. Every dime I put towards this project brings it closer to having the power potential of a supercar, without the 100K price tag. I have a little over $2,500 invested into this project and I have doubled the stock HP in a 2,700 lb. car, which is cheap to register and insure and gets over 25 MPG.
A good set of tires for my Porsche cost over $1,300. To upgrade my Porsche engine and double the stock HP on it: would run about 25-30K if I wanted to do it the right way. So that would be 630 HP.

For 25-30K I could build a 750 HP 4 cylinder Mustang and I would still have 10-15K left over to spend on other goodies. It would probably never drive as nice as the Porsche, but it would be hard to argue about who won the race. I'm betting that if I put 10K into my Mustang suspension, it would probably handle quite well, don't you think?

I'll bet you would pay good money to see that race too!

I don't see the downside.

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

Originally Posted by i-bought-a-v6 How do you justify spending money on a 21 year old 4 cylinder car?

Because modifying is fun and initial investment was low.

[i-bought-a-v6]

I understand that but how much less could that possibly be than an 01 v6, also I just don't think any of the other parts on that car are going to last much longer, so unless your using it strictly for it's VIN its not justifiable.
I don't see how you could get to 750hp unless you twin turbo and super it at really high psi

I agree modifying is fun.

[i-bought-a-v6]

I get it now,
You've already got a nice porche and this car is purely for hobby and you don't care about the money because you said

For 25-30K I could build a 750 HP 4 cylinder Mustan

[blaten22]

Project Bolt-On

This is why we do what we do.

[OHC230]

How much less could that possibly be than an 01 v6

Like I said, I have $2,500 invested above the $800.00 or so $$ that I paid for my whole car. I guess that I could have bought the 01' for around $3,300, but my car is still a lot quicker than an 01 V-6, not knocking the V-6, I like them. My Foxstang is way easier to work on though and much easier to find cheap parts for too.


Here is a video. This is one of several 9 second Mustangs running around with a single turbo.

YouTube - Jon Huber's 9 second Mustang

YouTube - Jon Huber's 9 second Mustang

[blaten22]

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

I have about $700 in my Fox right now with car purchase. My other car is a supercharged GT, and yeah I don't expect my fox to be a speed demon, lol I guess it could be though.

[Showtime'85]

Originally Posted by OHC230 How do you justify spending money on a 21 year old 4 cylinder car? That is a really good question. I could say that the end justifies the means and leave it at that......or I could put it another way. Every dime I put towards this project brings it closer to having the power potential of a supercar, without the 100K price tag. I have a little over $2,500 invested into this project and I have doubled the stock HP in a 2,700 lb. car, which is cheap to register and insure and gets over 25 MPG. A good set of tires for my Porsche cost over $1,300. To upgrade my Porsche engine and double the stock HP on it: would run about 25-30K if I wanted to do it the right way. So that would be 630 HP. For 25-30K I could build a 750 HP 4 cylinder Mustang and I would still have 10-15K left over to spend on other goodies. It would probably never drive as nice as the Porsche, but it would be hard to argue about who won the race. I'm betting that if I put 10K into my Mustang suspension, it would probably handle quite well, don't you think? I'll bet you would pay good money to see that race too! I don't see the downside.

I'm just being a troll here, but I still dont understand your logic.

A porsche is expensive yes, but it is purpose built no? The frame, the suspension, everything, is built to work together. Now take your mustang. Ok you can 750hp your engine. Fine. But the suspension? No matter what you do to that car, aside from building a new platform for it (which will prob cost you more than the porsche) will make it handle even near the porsche.

But like I said, Im just trolling because Im bored. Just thought I'd throw my in .02.

[i-bought-a-v6]

That expands on what I said and I want to seen it proven logical or even possible

[OHC230]

Im just trolling because Im bored. Just thought I'd throw my in .02.

No matter, you have some valid questions.

The suspension? No matter what you do to that car, aside from building a new platform for it (which will prob cost you more than the Porsche's) won't make it handle even near the Porsche.

So here's where you and I differ in opinion: First off let me agree with you on the point of the "stock" Fox Mustang being a poor candidate for a road race car.
Being an engineer (annoying as we are) and a mechanic, I have a tendency to look at everything from an analytical point of view.

The biggest issue with Fox Mustang chassis can be broken down into 2 things, both of which are easily correctable.

One is the rear roll center being way to high and the other is the lack of torsional stiffness in the chassis. Griggs racing and others, have some good solutions for the rear axle locating links, that effectively correct the rear roll center height problem.

The torsional chassis stiffness issue can be solved by the judicious use of gussets and diagonal bracing of the chassis coupled to a multi-point roll bar/cage, which I plan on using in any car I race. I can cite dozens of examples of where competitive Mustang racing cars with solid axles, beat out other competitors racing Porsche's.

Now I would love to have a race prepped Carerra Cup or Koni Challenge race car, with spares, but a good example is around $125,000-150,000 and I could see an annual racing budget being equal to that amount for car maintenance.

I could compete with that same car in a Fox Mustang and turn similar or better lap times with half the budget. A lot of this really just depends on how savvy you are and where you spend your money.

Did you know that Jack Roush's Turbo Mustangs dominated the IMSA racing series back in the 80's over Porsche's and every other make?

Gotta Love those Fox Mustangs!!


Reportedly, these engines made over 750 HP in qualifying trim.