[akatagyourit]

Ok well my dd decided to take a crap on me. OHC could really use some help on this one.

Car is a 93 2.3L 5spd na coupe. Cars slowly been losing power and it just completely dumped today. Last time I pulled codes it was showing left bank lean. First thought was o2 sensor. Replaced it today no more lean code. Now I pulled em again and the map/bp was showing issues key on engine off. Did the key on engine on test and it spit up 2 other codes. 222 something to do with the DIS monitor or something. 998 hard fault no idea wtf this is. Replaced map/bp unit with a known working one. Key on engine off comes up with 111 system passed no issues. Still getting the 222 and 998 codes. Pulled the ign module got it tested passed. Gonna go down tomorrow and get the coils tested and see what happens there, but i'm baffled. I'm poor atm so can't really just go drop 130 on a new module or 100 on 2 coils, need some insight on this.

As for biggest issue is power right now. Can't get more than 1/4 throttle in any gear but 5th otherwise car starts stuttering till it feels like its about to choke. First gear can't get past 10mph 2nd past 25 3rd past 35 and 4th past 45. In 5th gear highest i've been able to get currently is about 60 mph before it slowly starts the stuttering again. I'm lost, tired and aggrivated. Insight and/or advice would be much appreciated.

[OHC230]

Like a lot of mechanics, I have learned not to trust fault codes and I take them with a grain of salt. I can trip 10 fault codes on a car and find something completely unrelated, as the cause of the problem.

Did you get a chance to check fuel pressure? I all most always start here and work my way towards other issues. You should see 45 psi of unwavering pressure at the Schrader valve?

Do the spark plugs show signs of a lean or rich condition?

Is there a vacuum leak somewhere? Pinch off the lines with a clamp or plug them and see.

Is the EGR stuck open?

On the ignition side, be suspicious of the cranks sensors. Are they full of iron dust. If you have a volt meter, measure the sensor with the engine running. Over the years I have had 10 times more crank sensor failures on DIS cars, than any other component.

Check these items and if you still don't have an answer get back to me.

[akatagyourit]

well turns out the car is a 92. Looked all over for a crank or cam position sensor and car has neither? How to the DIS system locate this if its not there? Upper rad hose had a pin hole in it and was spraying on one of the coil packs. Think this is the reason I was having issues. Fixed the hose and abused the car with no problems. Will continue looking. Still throwing a 222 and 998 code though.

[OHC230]

Down at the lower pulley, you have a combination sensor which serves as both a crank and cam position sensor. It is hard to see unless you remove the lower pulley. The wire tail that come off the sensor is routed beneath the timing cover. It is highly unlikely that the coolant caused damage to the coil pack.

What color are the plugs?

Do they smell like fuel?

[akatagyourit]

Plugs were brownish tan all 8. Replaced the crank pos sensor, 130$ there, still didn't fix it, tested coil packs myself. Inside of spec requirements, tested both coils as primary and secondary, same results from both, coils are fine, new plugs and wires while I was at it. Replaced Ignition module issue resolved, another 140$ item. So in all 80 thurs, 50 yesterday, and 270$ today. Taking CPS back tomorrow since i'm power and cps was working fine.

[OHC230]

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

[akatagyourit]

Ya now to find out wtf is wrong with the damn tach. Everything I see the tach is fed from the ignition module which with it being brand new it should work fine. Car off tach is below zero. At idle car is at 3k rpms and i know its idling more like 7-800rpm. After I run the motor past 3k the tach operates normally. Any thoughts?

[blaten22]

Originally Posted by akatagyourit Ya now to find out wtf is wrong with the damn tach. Everything I see the tach is fed from the ignition module which with it being brand new it should work fine. Car off tach is below zero. At idle car is at 3k rpms and i know its idling more like 7-800rpm. After I run the motor past 3k the tach operates normally. Any thoughts?

Can you ohm out the tach to see if there are spec's it suppose to run buy? Personally if it was the stock tach, I'd change it along with any other gauges that could be done considering the age. Just my thought though.

[OHC230]

Corrosion, poor continuity or a bad tach.

Pull the tach out of the dash panel and look for any signs of burning on the back of the instrument cluster or corrosion on the tach terminals. If you cant find any you may have a bad gauge.

[modular01GT]

Check the connection at the coil too. Do an ohm test from the wire that goes to the coil, to the connector that plugs into the cluster. Should go right to 0, if it reads something other, may have a bad wire.

[akatagyourit]

Well after driving the car for a little bit seems to have reappeared. When the car is first started and driven has no problems. I have a 24 mile drive 1 way to work and back. On the way to work about 4 miles out after 4k rpms the power starts to drop off quickly. Not sure whats up, but more investigating this weekend.

[OHC230]

So did you keep the new crank sensor, or did you return that?

[akatagyourit]

New items installed.
Crank Position Sensor.
oxygen sensor.
tfi module.
new plugs
new wires.

[thedriver33]

Originally Posted by akatagyourit New items installed. Crank Position Sensor. oxygen sensor. tfi module. new plugs new wires.

fix the issues?

i seem to be having the same problem...but i think my new fuel pump i installed took a dump only a month after installing it...... barely have any pressure at the fuel rail valve and wont start.

is there anything that controls fuel pump control.....i already bypassed the switch in the trunk to be sure that wasnt it.

[OHC230]

Well after driving the car for a little bit seems to have reappeared. When the car is first started and driven has no problems. I have a 24 mile drive 1 way to work and back. On the way to work about 4 miles out after 4k rpms the power starts to drop off quickly. Not sure whats up, but more investigating this weekend.

So is this only happening when the engine is cold?

What if any codes are you now throwing?

Coolant temp sensor and O2 sensor readings, what do they look like?

Fuel pressure??

[akatagyourit]

Car was acting up again. Not cold, runs fine cold, when its gotten to operating temp is when its doing it. Going to punch the cat this weekend. Key on engine off code 111 comes up all clear.
Key on engine running I get 2 codes
521 - Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) – circuit switching not detected.
538 - Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine Run Self-Test).
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test – throttle position movement.
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test – cylinder identification problems.

521 is fine as egr isn't hooked up. 538 not sure. Hooked code scanner up. Started car which was already at temp. Flipped switch to test, motor revs up and slowly comes down. Didn't do the WOT test as i'm trying to make this car last a little bit longer. Will pull fuel pressure this weekend at parents after pump is primed and do a trickle down, and then with car running see what thats producing.

As far as the sensor testing whats needed for that OHC never had to test those before, but as I said, o2 is brand new.

[OHC230]

Those codes aren't going to help us here.

Your O2 readings should be around 800-950 mv.

On the coolant temp sensor, I can't devise a cleaver DIY test for you, so grab a new one and stick it in there.

"Going to punch the cat this weekend."

Wait till PITA hears about this!

If you have a wife, you should beat her too.

Before you destroy the converter, you might want to go to a muffler shop and have them test it with a back pressure gauge.

I will think about this a little more. Re-post with more details when you have some.