[mach1soldier]

Hey everyone. I just joined and I have 1990 convertible mustang with the 2.3l. The transmission is an auto and is slipping. I don't seem to be able to find a transmission locally in Lawton Oklahoma and I really don't want to dump money into it. One place wanted 600 bucks for a tranny in unknown condition. Should I part it out or is it pretty much worthless? Is there anything of value on these cars?

[92mustang04yfz]

I say part it out, but thats only because i need parts off it lol

[zonker]

Originally Posted by mach1soldier Hey everyone. I just joined and I have 1990 convertible mustang with the 2.3l. The transmission is an auto and is slipping. I don't seem to be able to find a transmission locally in Lawton Oklahoma and I really don't want to dump money into it. One place wanted 600 bucks for a tranny in unknown condition. Should I part it out or is it pretty much worthless? Is there anything of value on these cars?

Not all trans slipping is a bad trans. Can you tell me at what point the trans slips? I might be able to help.

[tom_vilsack]

maybe my trans problem will help you....

after i got my 93 vert this past summer,the trans was slipping a bit also...so did a complete oil/filter change and set oil level with car in park and warm after about 20 min (about middle of dip stick)...sure enough the trans was slipping worse then ever (almost undriveable)

so i phone around to some wreckers to see if any have a trans for the 2.3L (needed to be from a 92 or 93)...and nothing...last place i phoned was just ford parts,and older guy asks me all about issue...he says he see's this all the time and says put another liter of trans fluid in (i say but that will overfill way above line and isn't that bad) he says trust him it works and will last...nothing to lose i give it a go....5 months latter,running strong and shifts on a dime!!! least worked for me!

[zonker]

things to check before you throw in the towel
do them in this order:

1. fluid level
2. adjust floor console shift linkage
(you set it with the shifter in OD position)
3. adjust kickdown linkage
4. adjust forward band and low reverse band
5. change fluid and filter

[TaterTodd]

Have you checked out Craig's List or even E-bay for parts? If anything there has to be a Mom and Pop shop where around there to fix it for cheap ... People are sometimes willing to make deals to get business ..

When you say local, how far of a distance are you talking?

[mach1soldier]

I have looked within a 100 miles. There is one local but i'm not spending 600 bucks on a junkyard transmission. I am going to check everything out and see if everything is adjusted properly first. I am searching the forum for a how to currently.

[zonker]

Originally Posted by mach1soldier I have looked within a 100 miles. There is one local but i'm not spending 600 bucks on a junkyard transmission. I am going to check everything out and see if everything is adjusted properly first. I am searching the forum for a how to currently.

what do you need to know, i have a factory service book right here.

[blaten22]

Swap it for a T-5

[mach1soldier]

Originally Posted by zonker what do you need to know, i have a factory service book right here.

I was looking for how to do the adjustments on the transmission.

[zonker]

OK, start with the shifter linkage.

Under the car loosen the 13mm bolt connecting the linkage rod to the console shift lever. It's a rod that has a elongated slot, the console lever bolt is that one.

Now, set the brake and put the put the shifter in OD, and then pull back the slotted rod and push it forward until you have 3 clicks. That should be OD on the trans. Make sure the console is still locked in it's OD detent. Then tighten the bolt.

Then, while you're at it, adjust the kickdown cable from under the hood. The way you do that is flip the white plastic tab near the linkage bracket holding the cable to the intake manifold. Pull the throttle body all the way open and let the spring on the cable bracket locate the cable. Then clip the white tab shut.

[mach1soldier]

Originally Posted by zonker OK, start with the shifter linkage. Under the car loosen the 13mm bolt connecting the linkage rod to the console shift lever. It's a rod that has a elongated slot, the console lever bolt is that one. Now, set the brake and put the put the shifter in OD, and then pull back the slotted rod and push it forward until you have 3 clicks. That should be OD on the trans. Make sure the console is still locked in it's OD detent. Then tighten the bolt. Then, while you're at it, adjust the kickdown cable from under the hood. The way you do that is flip the white plastic tab near the linkage bracket holding the cable to the intake manifold. Pull the throttle body all the way open and let the spring on the cable bracket locate the cable. Then clip the white tab shut.

Thanks for the help. I did what you said and added a little more trans fluid (little low) and it drove good all day yesterday and today. Unfortunately my wife wants me to get rid of it still. It looks like I will be parting it out if it doesn't sell locally. Keeping insurance on 5 newer cars isn't cheap.

[mach1soldier]

Long story but the car is getting parted out. I'm not going to argue with my wife about it. P.M. me if you need anything.

[zonker]

where are u located?
duh - just read... lawton, ok.

i need a black drivers sunvisor in good shape and if your car is blue inside, i need a few interior trim bits.

[mach1soldier]

It's red inside and the drivers sun visor is shot. I'm batting a thousand.

[ocejo]

what could cause one to not move at all, I replaced the modulator

[zonker]

Lets start diagnosis.
So no movement in 1-2-Drive-OD or Reverse?

Check fluid level first

Then try all gear positions then to see if any gear grabs.

Don't rev the piss out of it while you're trying to get it to engage (mucho bad for trans).

[ocejo]

level ok, no movement at all

[zonker]

From Ford Service manual:

No engagement or drive in forward (any position) or reverse:
1. Improper fluid level - perform fluid level check
2. Low main control pressure - do control pressure test
3. Mechanical damage - Check splines on turbine, input shaft and O/D carrier, O/D one way clutch, center shaft, forward clutch, forward carrier and output shaft. Replace if necessary.

Control Pressure Test
There are two methods of performing the control pressure test. One is to perform the test using the engine vacuum. The second method is using a remote vacuum source such as the one provided by a hand operated vacuum pump.

Engine vacuum procedure:
1. Attach a tachometer to engine and tee into the modulator vacuum line with a vacuum gauge near the modulator.
2. Attach a pressure gauge at the control pressure outlet at the transmission (the control pressure take off hole is on the linkage side of the trans, to the right (rear) a couple inches.
3. Apply parking brake and start engine.
4. check the throttle and downshift linkage for binding. If satisfactory, check for vacuum leaks in the transmission modulator and it's connecting tubes and hoses. Cheak all other vacuum operated units (like power brakes) for vacuum leaks.

Low pressure at idle speed in all ranges:
check low fluid level, restricted intake screen or filter, loose oil tubes, loose valve body to case bolts, excessive leakage in front pump - case, control valve body - or a sticking control pressure regulator valve.

High at idle in all ranges:
check vacuum modulator, vacuum line leak, control rod, or sticking regulator boost valves

OK in Idle in all ranges:
* low at 10 inches vacuum: Faulty vacuum modulator or sticking throttle valve control rod.
* ok at 10 inches vacuum but low at 1 inch vacuum: Excessive leakage, low pump capacity, restricted oil inlet screen.

[Cobraman1024]

found this thread on diagnosing the auto trans and figured I'd try to get some ideas from you guys. I will be trying the adjustment steps outlined by Zonker in post #11 but figured I'd get ideas from you guys also.
This problem just started this evening; sometimes the trans seems to have trouble dropping down in gears while decelerating----kickdown cable, right? Its my first guess anyway. The engine almost stalls out when the car gets to a complete stop, the brake pedal seems "loose" like there is not enough vacuum for the brake booster to properly function. Its a sporadic issue so it doesn't happen everytime I'm coming to a stop.