[91vert*Brandy]

So I recently got a 91 vert mustang lx with a 2.3 ohc.

I want give a little more power, not looking to do too much cuz this car is my daily driver, but I want a little more out of it. What do you guys think I should do?

I was thinking about putting a new cam in it. But i dont what kind of cam to put in. Ive heard you can take a roller out of a ranger?

Swapping the pulleys with new aluminum ones. Adjustable cam gear.

Whats your guy's thoughts

[zonker]

I'm doing the same thing... I've had my 1991 2.3 Convert for a couple weeks now.

There's not much aftermarket support out there for the 8 plug 2.3's, or so I've found. I've been tinkering though....
I've got the underdrive thing worked out and have adjustable cam gears on the way. 2.3OHC is the man to discuss cams, look thru his posts and you'll get some ideas.

[OHC230]

Thanks Zonker.

The cam you have now, should be the same grind as the Ranger roller. It is ground with very conservative lobe center lines and has only .355" of lift at the valve: not the best thing for gas flow. Unfortunately, even if it is re-ground you will be stuck with a fairly wide separation angle and an Intake closing event that won't do a lot for cylinder filling. I have been building 2.3 motors since the 1980's and I have tried a lot of cams. You can't go wrong in opinion, if you pick up a Racer Walsh Stage 1 cam. It is a clone of the Ford MotorSport A-237 grind, which is probably the most versatile grind you will come across. You can use your current roller followers and if your valve springs are in reasonable shape, they will work with this cam. I would suggest an adjustable cam sprocket as well.

[thedriver33]

can you run that cam without a tune, what about if your run it with a milled head?

[OHC230]

"can you run that cam without a tune, what about if your run it with a milled head?"

Yes, the cam will work with the stock injectors and computer, although I suggest that you purchase a indexable cam sprocket, to do fine adjustments to the cam timing. A milled head, roughly .050" removed from the surface, will dramatically improve the cams performance.

[thedriver33]

what gains should we see....and with the adjustable cam(having 93 8 plug head) what timing would i need to set it at to get some good gains for a DD.

and do you have a direct link to that cam....i noticed that have like a bunch of cams but none say stage 1.....

[OHC230]

"what gains should we see"....

I can't give you an accurate figure and neither can anyone else, there are just too many variables. It will be much better that stock though.

with the adjustable cam sprocket(having 93 8 plug head) what timing would i need to set it at to get some good gains for a DD.

I always run the cam grinders specs to start with, and then do some experimenting from there. When you get your cam, re-post and I can walk you through an installation and degree process.

Here is the cam.

Racer Walsh Stage 1 Hyd. roller camshaft Ford 2.3L OHC
RWA1431R 2.3 Stage #1 Hydraulic Roller Cam. Lift @ .050" - .420". Dur @ .050" - int. 226* / ex. 234*

Here's the link

Racer Walsh Stage 1 Hyd. roller camshaft Ford 2.3L OHC

What kind of exhaust upgrades are you planning?

[zonker]

yikes - $363?

[thedriver33]

for exhuast, at the moment its a ranger header with stock back (fake flowmaster muffler on there)

after im done with the head and cam, figured speedflow header, high flow cat, 2.25 piping.....havin thought of a muffler yet.

[OHC230]

So you are building a car here! I would add one small suggestion and that would be to go with a larger lead pipe "2.5" until the system reaches the floor pan. Later when you can afford it, you could pick up a Moates 1/4 horse J-3 tuner for around $250.00. Your car should be quick and should deliver good MPG when you are done.

[thedriver33]

sounds good.... im selling my other daily so it should fund this project.....ill be posting my build later this month......gotta start taking pics.