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Old April 23rd, 2011, 10:17 AM   #21
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Well, if you are positive that this is the way you want to go, then I would suggest that you look into the Moates 1/4 horse tuner+software or the Tweecer, see links below.

Before you waste your money on a muffler, I would suggest that if you want to make this kind of power, find a decent muffler shop and tell them that you want a 2.25” exhaust from the catalytic converter to the tail pipe for now, with a nice quiet muffler. For this level of power, I would suggest that you get a decent header and have your muffler shop run a 2.5” diameter pipe from the collector of the header to the rest of your system.

This is the cam I suggest; Racer Walsh Stage #2 Hyd Roller Cam, which has .450" lift at the valve, maybe. The duration, measured when the valve is all ready open .050" untill it point that it reaches .050" before closing is; 234 crankshaft degrees of crankshaft rotation for the intake lobe and 242 degrees on the exhaust lobe.

This is likely more than the camshaft you have now, which probably gives you .355" of lift at the intake or exhasut valves when measured the same way. Your current cam might keep the valves open for 190 degrees of crankshaft rotation, when measured the same way.

Past experiments have shown; opening your valves more than .355 and keeping them open for longer than 190 degrees of crank rotation, can in some cases, increase the power your engine produces.


You will need larger fuel injectors; I suggest using 42lb injectors, which will give you a little room for more power later.

If you are serious about doing this, contact a reputable race tuning shop in your area that knows how to work with Mustangs.

(Camshaft)
cam #2 .450 roller cam

(Valve springs)
2.3 Ford Drop In Dual Valve Springs - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

(Exhaust header)
2.3 Ford Pinto Late Model Headers - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

(Tuner)
QuarterHorse for Fords [QH1] - $249.00 : Moates.Net

(Tuner)
The TwEECer -- EEC-IV user programmable module

(Fuel injectors)
FUEL INJECTOR 0280150558 440cc 42lb 14ohms (Set 4) | eBay

Once you get these things done, you can't start thinking about cylinder head mods.
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Last edited by OHC230; April 26th, 2011 at 08:57 AM.
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 11:55 AM   #22
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ok well ill stick to what you just said
hopefully all goes well lol
and thx for the links
ill keep you posted on what happens and if any problems come along
thank you ohc230
and everybody else but im sure ill have some more question haha
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 12:18 PM   #23
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should i put intake in it?
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 01:06 PM   #24
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You can if you want to, but I have made quite a bit of power using a K&N filter element in the stock air box, with the intake muffler baffles removed, so in my opinion, you don’t really need it. See pic of baffles. They can be pulled out of the intake muffler in a few minutes.

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Old April 24th, 2011, 01:17 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by OHC230 View Post
You can if you want to, but I have made quite a bit of power using a K&N filter element in the stock air box, with the intake muffler baffles removed, so in my opinion, you don’t really need it. See pic of baffles. They can be pulled out of the intake muffler in a few minutes.

haha nice i will definatly try it out thanks

guess what i guess my coolant is leeking but it only leeks when the car isnt running any ideas?
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Old April 24th, 2011, 01:27 PM   #26
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water pump maybe?
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Old April 24th, 2011, 01:36 PM   #27
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+1 find an SVO 2.3t motor! Then build on that platform. Might be a cheaper way to go IF you can find the motor. The speed shop I go to built one, he runs 9's probably a little more power than you want lol, but at least you wont plateau with the more money you spend.
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Old April 25th, 2011, 01:52 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by sixtang View Post
+1 find an SVO 2.3t motor! Then build on that platform. Might be a cheaper way to go IF you can find the motor. The speed shop I go to built one, he runs 9's probably a little more power than you want lol, but at least you wont plateau with the more money you spend.
ya i was thinking about it but my fiance wants to learn how to drive on it haha
so thats why im just trying to squeeze a few hp out of it but im mostly going to get a second 2.3l mustang and try it out
Oh by the way im going to get my piping and muffler put in
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Old April 25th, 2011, 08:53 PM   #29
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Hey guys I have a ? I bought a speed way header and hi flow cat go go on my 2.3 build but I may just buy a stop rebuilt 2.3 with 3year 36,000 mile warranty. Would that speedflow header work or would it drop my power?
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Old April 26th, 2011, 01:21 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by OHC230 View Post
This is the cam I suggest; Racer Walsh Stage #2 Hyd Roller Cam. Lift @ .050" - .450".
Wouldn't cam lift at 0.050" be 0.050"?
Haha

Sorry, just bustin your cohones...
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Old April 26th, 2011, 08:58 AM   #31
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Here Rob, I re-wrote this for you.

This is the cam I suggest; Racer Walsh Stage #2 Hyd Roller Cam, which has .450" lift at the valve, maybe. The duration, measured when the valve is all ready open .050" untill it point that it reaches .050" before closing is; 234 crankshaft degrees of crankshaft rotation for the intake lobe and 242 degrees on the exhaust lobe.

This is likely more than the camshaft you have now, which probably gives you .355" of lift at the intake or exhasut valves when measured the same way. Your current cam might keep the valves open for 190 degrees of crankshaft rotation, when measured the same way.

Past experiments have shown; opening your valves more than .355 and keeping them open for longer than 190 degrees of crank rotation, can in some cases, increase the power your engine produces.
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Old April 26th, 2011, 12:06 PM   #32
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Tomorow i got to bring my mustang to the shop to get a new waterpump put in
everything else is still running so far haha
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Old April 27th, 2011, 11:30 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by OHC230 View Post
You will need larger fuel injectors; I suggest using 42lb injectors, which will give you a little room for more power later.
is that going to cause any problems?
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Old April 27th, 2011, 10:35 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by IgotStang View Post
Tomorow i got to bring my mustang to the shop to get a new waterpump put in
everything else is still running so far haha
A little advice... If a water pump is too difficult a job for you to replace yourself, I think trying to do a serious hi performance engine build might not be the right plan for you.
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Old April 28th, 2011, 11:58 AM   #35
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You did notice the powerband from 5000-8000 on that last cam?
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Old April 29th, 2011, 02:49 PM   #36
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You did notice the powerband from 5000-8000 on that last cam?

That's a miss-print. It will roll off the power around 6200-6600 RPM, depending on the supporting mods. It's the same grind as the Crane Cams 199511, but Walsh sells it for a little less money than Summit.

If you run an older carbed motor, this cam just drops in and still holds a decent idle. With the right suppoting mods, this cam will make 170-175 HP.

To run it on a fuel injected car you will need some kind of tuner device.


Cam Style Hydraulic roller follower
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 234
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 242
Advertised Intake Duration 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration 284
Advertised Duration 282 int./284 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.450 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.450 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 108
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Old April 30th, 2011, 06:59 AM   #37
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lol i also need some help and advice regarding selling online, dont know where to start with and dont want to pay too much, anyhow, it doesnt realy fit here but the title was just so general, had to take advantage of it.
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Old April 30th, 2011, 10:58 AM   #38
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Go to the home page for Moded Mustangs and you will see a link for vendors.
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