[IgotStang]

the title says it all
i was just wondering what i should start with first
the tail pipe rusted so ill probably replace the muffler+pipe
but after that what would be a good place to start
its a 1991 mustang 2.3l lx hatchback stock
id like to improve performance
and i no the 91 mustang has a hp of 108
i can spend atleast 800 to a 1000 a month for parts
id like to reach 180 hp for now
so how can i get there and just to let ppl know i drive this mustang everyday

[PsyAbe]

heads/cam/intake
rear end gears
underdrive pullys maybe? not sure whether or not they'd be beneficial in a 4 banger
forced induction

[IgotStang]

Do you have any suggestion on what kind of head/cam/intake etc i should get
im hoping to get my muffler done next week what you think about the 44 flowmaster?

[PsyAbe]

I've not much hands-on experience especially not with 2.3l's so i don't think i'm qualified to pick out the parts..however, I can at least direct you to them and let you research

2.3l cams:
Camshafts - Camshafts & Valvetrain - Engines & Components - 2.3L/140 - MUSTANG - FORD - 1991 - SummitRacing.com

I think 2.3s came with a 7.5 rear? if so, here are some 3.73s
1979-10 Mustang Yukon 7.5" 3.73 Rear End Gears at LRS - Same Day Shipping!




and honestly..that was all I was able to find. I checked other forums and they all agree that a 2.3L that's not the turbo version isn't really worth meddling with. Most of them suggested just throwing in a 5.0 as it would be less of a fuss trying to squeeze every last bit of power out of the small 2.3.

I suggest visiting a junkyard or checking out craigslist or ebay for a 5.0, but if you're hellbent on sticking with a 4 pot, i suggest using those resources to find a turbo'd 2.3 and drop it in your engine bay or at least put in the turbo assembly

[Mikel89us]

Most 4 cyl mustangs came with 3.73 gears

[IgotStang]

well in a few years ill probably buy 5.0 l but this one im building up is just for driving daily purposes so id like atleast 180 hp in it thats good enough for me and then make it look pretty and its good to go

[PsyAbe]

Originally Posted by IgotStang well in a few years ill probably buy 5.0 l but this one im building up is just for driving daily purposes so id like atleast 180 hp in it thats good enough for me and then make it look pretty and its good to go

i think your best option is to just add a turbo from a 2.3 that came stock with one, look online or at your local junkyard. It's no hardcore build and should net you somewhere close to your goal hp. I also believe it'll be the best bang for your buck

[IgotStang]

ya but i heard that if i add a turbo id have to change my cast iron pistons
tell me if im wrong

[91vert*Brandy]

Adding a turbo to a N/A 23 is more work than just buying a stock 23 out of a tbird. Youd have to add forged pistons and make and oil feed/return.

Since you drive this mustang daily. Id go with a header, intake, cam (Boport racing heads has cams for the 2.3), delete the A/C, underdrive pulleys.

Honestly after reading how much you can spend a month. Id buy a turbo 2.3 motor and just spend a weekend dropping it in. I got mine for $350

[PsyAbe]

Originally Posted by IgotStang ya but i heard that if i add a turbo id have to change my cast iron pistons tell me if im wrong

ah, i just assumed that since it had a turbo version, it'd have a sturdy enough design even in n/a form. my bad

[IgotStang]

doesnt the 91 already have a roller cam?
i thought they do haha

[IgotStang]

got this from a link mso wrote just checking if you guys would change anything on the list



Cheap/easy upgrades

Air intake: This is easy. You can use anything for this, your average everyday Civic intake from Autozone if you want.

Ranger Header: This is also pretty easy, you get a header from a 94-95 Ranger and it’s a direct bolt-on.

Ranger roller cam: This cam comes in 89+ Rangers and 91+ Mustangs, so if you have a 91+ Mustang, don’t bother with this one. It gives a slight boost in horsepower by reducing friction in the camshaft. Roller cams also don’t wear out as fast as flat-tappets.

Injectors and MAF: This is something I don't understand too well, so I'll just link to a site that gives some rather good information Moved to www.hotrodhigh.ca

Knock sensor: This is extremely easy. You just unplug it! Set your timing correctly and take it off. This sensor is designed to lengthen the life of the 2.3 by setting the timing back at the slightest ping in the engine.

Muffler: A nice little upgrade to make your 2.3 sound different from the others. It's good for a few horsepower, maybe 3-5. A recommendation? Flowmaster 40 muffler will "make it sound like a big ol' V8." (thanks Turbo )



Medium difficulty/cost upgrades

Milling the head/Thinner head gasket: Fairly easy operation for a machine shop, material is removed from the head surface which increases compression. The thinner head gasket does the same thing, but doesn’t require work. Usually you do both when you get the head shaved. The increase in compression creates more horsepower.

Stage 1 cam: When I say stage 1, I’m referring to the level of performance it gives you. A relatively slight increase in horsepower without sacrificing too much gas mileage and without requiring you to change the valve train at all. These cams are relatively cheap from just a few horsepower increase around $110, to maybe a 10-20hp increase from $150-$200.

Cam timing gear: This is just a gear to adjust the timing of your camshaft. It doesn’t increase horsepower, but it allows you to adjust where your peak hp/tq is. This is especially useful with an aftermarket cam, as you wouldn’t notice much of a difference with the stock cam. These usually go around $80-$100.

7.5 rear: Yes, you have a 7.5 rear stock on your car. So why post it as an upgrade? Well, the pre-’86 Gts and SVOs had 7.5 rears with T-loks. The T-lok is really what you’re aiming for, a rear from a junked Mustang would be cheaper than a T-lok. So why not just get an 8.8? Honestly you can, but the increase in weight wouldn’t be worth it, as you will NEVER break the 7.5 with a n/a 2.3.

Exhaust: A lot of people make the mistake of getting an exhaust that is too big. A single 2.25” to 2.5” exhaust is fine. If you want duals, you’ll need smaller pipes. High-flow cats are advisable if you need to pass emissions, otherwise a straight back exhaust would be cheaper and create more power.

Aftermarket header: After you start upgrading to stage 2 cams and stroker kits, you’re going to need a bigger exhaust system to push all the gas out, a long tube header from an aftermarket company would do you good at that point. These only cost around $180 so it’s not out of your price range, but if you only have or plan to have slight mods, stick with the ranger header. Aftermarket headers are aimed more towards higher RPM applications.

Ignition: An aftermarket ignition system would give you a nice little boost in performance. A few horsepower, a little increase in gas mileage, and the ability to safely regulate your rev limit (in some systems). This is also a fairly cheap upgrade, going for around $200-$300.

Aluminum driveshaft: This is a relatively good upgrade. It reduces weight in the drive train, helping to get that power to the ground faster. It will help your engine rev faster and make the car feel peppier. Should go for around $200-$250.

[PsyAbe]

seems pretty straight forward and it's more than i'll ever be able to provide, the 1st stage of upgrades seem nice and cost efficient. I'd say jump straight to the "expensive/ medium difficulty" upgrades since you have the budget to do so, I'm just not sure if all the aftermarket items listed are available, 2.3s don't seem very popular. Oh and all the good things ive heard concerning flowmasters are the sound, not performance. some go as far as to say it actually restricts flow in favor of sound. most recommend borla or magnaflow

[IgotStang]

thx arto
well i was talking to one of the local engineers on this forum and he seems to think i should first address the fuel system in the car
which means buying a tuner and tuning the computer or buying a carburetor
any thoughts on this?

[zonker]

a fair amount of that stuff u pulled from mso does not apply to your quest, like your 1991 mustang does not have a knock sensor to unplug, and a ranger header will not make power, only reduce weight. your motor already has a roller cam, so ignore the ranger roller cam info too.

also any intake won't just work, since you have a maf sensor on your car and you need to pay attention to the volume and temerature of the air flowing thru it.

listen to OHC if you are serious about modding your car. He will steer you in the right direction.

[IgotStang]

thx zonkers
ya im talking you oh
well do you think it is a good idea to stick a ranger head in my mustang or would it just be pointless?

[zonker]

ranger head is pointless.
ranger cam is pointless.
buying roller rockers is pointless.

they all are very close to or exactly the same thing you already have on your 1991 motor.

[IgotStang]

well then what would you have me put in it?

[zonker]

Originally Posted by IgotStang well then what would you have me put in it?

OHC will craft a plan for u, it will most likely involve porting/milling a 87-90 model mustang head, or buying an aluminum esslinger unit.

[flowmann]

Arto,

Every exhaust system we make is dyno-proven to make more power, more torque, and better fuel efficiency. We won’t sell it if the system doesn’t meet those standards.

IgotStang,

We don’t offer a system for your 1991 2.3L Mustang, but if you call our toll free number, our exhaust system techs will give you advice on what will work best with your application. The design exhaust systems in their sleep.

Toll Free Tech Line: 1-800-544-4761