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Old June 24th, 2011, 08:14 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by OHC230 View Post
Cobraman, we never did follow up on your lean mixture problem. Last time we discussed it, you had replaced O2 sensors, fuel pump and regulator? Y/N
Did you ever replace the injectors with new ones?


Unfortunately, the header is probably not causing the lean condition code.
I didn't replace the regulator but did replace the oxygen sensor with a brand new one, fuel pump with a 255lph brand new unit.

I didn't put brand new injectors in but I did change them out for 19lb inejctors that were used and worked fine but didn't get rid of the code.

The car is actually taken apart right now for a 5-lug/disc brake conversion. The lower control arms and spindles are being dropped off this morning for powdercoating. I also have an 8.8 rearend ready to be installed.
Fenders and bumper are removed so that I can change out the core support; this one looks less than stellar from the previous owner's driving, not to mention my little fender bender last month.

When the car is up and running again, I want to change out the maf and the Coolant Temp Sensor........CTS first and see if that changes anything. obviously used parts, I'm not trying to go broke getting rid of a CEL lol
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Old June 28th, 2011, 07:42 PM   #22
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cobraman how much material did you use on the headliner?
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Old December 1st, 2011, 10:04 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by OHC230 View Post
In order to make 150 HP, your car will need some 24 lb per hour fuel injectors.

Generally, 19bl. Injectors will only deliver enough fuel for about 125-130 HP. A rough method for calculating for fuel injector size is this;

Estimated HP X Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (which is close to .50) divided by
The number of fuel injectors you have (4) times the maximum duty cycle available from your computer .80 in this case.

OHC.
When you are referencing 150HP you are speaking at the crank correct? What is the fuel system pressure ratings for these injectors? We currently have a 93 2.3L that we have raced in the 24hrs of lemons series and we are looking to do a cam upgrade this winter. Car already has a header and modified CAI. It makes around 97RWHP (est 115FWHP) with this set-up and no lean issues, but I am not able to view the duty cycle on the injectors. Is there a program you recommend to do the tuning with these cars? (SCT, Tweecer, ??)

I called Esslinger and they don't have much history with the 2 plug head and they recommended converting it over to a single plug head. Racer Walsh recommended the Stage 1 Cam if we stick with the stock computer set-up, but I am wondering if I will be getting into a duty cycle issue. If so my only options would be to change the injectors (tuning needed anyway) or increase the fuel rail pressure. Tuning being the better option. I would like to get in to the 150+ FWHP Range, but with the restrictions on cost with the Lemons series a $360cam will turn into a $1000 project with tuning software etc.
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Old December 4th, 2011, 10:15 PM   #24
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I have a solution for you. You will go broke and run out of time unless you switch to a carburetor.

A slider cam and a carburetor might be your new friend. On a budget, the non-roller cams, like the Comp cams 268H can bring the airflow of a single plug head into the range you desire. Sorry I just sold my last one, but you can find them for a little under $200.00 and a set of non roller followers for around $60.00. Start checking the JY for pre-87' 4 cyl Mustangs, so you can grab the intake manifold, then head over to the carbureted Ranger V-6 models and pull the carb off. The 2100 and 2150 series carburetors will bolt to the early 2.3 manifolds if you remove the stock carb base adapter. These work fairly well with a carb spacer and are roughly 370 CFM units. Rebuild kits are cheap and some Holley jets and power valves will actually fit the carburetor, but you may find the stock jetting fairly close, so try it first. Obviously, you will need to find a low pressure pump to replace the stock fuel pump.

I won’t get into why you don’t want the dual plug head on this post, but look for any 83 or later, single plug, D port head for a donor. Spend your money on a 5 angle seat and at least a 3 angle valve cut. Then mill .110” off the bottom of the head. Clean up the rough areas directly below the valves and port match the intake with a rotary file and the resist the urge to touch anything else. NO really!!!

You will need a decent header, PM me. I think I have a couple of stepped racing headers laying around. Figure on using a 3” lead pipe coming off the header for the first 30” then converging into a 2.5” from there. Grab a regular distributor for your car, from an 89’ or older Mustang or pre 88’ Ranger and then get re-post and I’ll fill you in on how to make that work. Ford Racing sells a 9mm wire set, which I highly recommend.

No doubt, you will have more questions; you should probably start a new thread.

OHC.
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Old December 5th, 2011, 10:34 PM   #25
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I do have a lot of questions. I'll have to digest this info for a little bit to see how we want to go.
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Old December 6th, 2011, 08:42 AM   #26
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I been through this countless times with customers as well as through my own endeavors. The carburetor removes 80% of the power impediment that you'd experience when trying to modify the 2.3L, because it is not dependent on hundreds of inputs from fragile components and in a racing environment that can be a big asset.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #27
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Well I found a modified D port head that has a roller cam in it (don't know details on the cam yet). Also comes with a Esslinger intake, Holley 500CFM carb, and MSD ignition.

Is there a difference in the short blocks going from a fuel injected engine to a distributor/carb set-up? I don't know if there is anything that would need mofidied to use a distributor.

I know we will need a different fuel pump or pressure regulator.

Anything else I am not thinking of?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old January 11th, 2012, 08:54 AM   #28
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Is there a difference in the short blocks going from a fuel injected engine to a distributor/carb set-up?

The only difference is that the hole for the mechanical fuel pump has not been machined. You could cut a hole, but either way you will need to get a low pressure fuel pump, so just stay with an electric (low pressure) pump in the tank.

You can use any 2.3 distributor from a carburetor engine.
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