84 2.3l GT Turbo Mod
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Old October 9th, 2011, 01:25 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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84 2.3l GT Turbo Mod


Hey guys, I got a 1984 2.3l GT Turbo, I am overhauling the engine due to some problems, but I am wondering, what are a few things I can do to the engine to increase the HP and not blow my engine if I wanna get on it a bit when I get it running? I am so use to working with the 5.0s that I hardly know much of the 2.3l capabilities or what they can withstand, not looking to make it track only fast, but would like to get upwards to 200-250hp out of it if possible, maybe more as long as I can keep it street legal being it is my daily driver (once its running again).
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Old October 9th, 2011, 12:41 PM   #2
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This all comes down to money, time and how much you want to do yourself. 250 HP is possible with a mostly stock engine, but you need to cover a few basics first.

The fuel system is the first limiting factor that you should address, since the available HP of your engine is determined by the fuel injector quantity.

The 84' GT turbos had 24 and 30# per hour fuel injectors from the factory. 30 lb per hour injectors will support about 180 HP, so if you are looking for 250 HP you will want larger 42-45 lb per hr injectors, which won’t work very well with your stock ECU. Several Ford 2.3L turbo models came from the factory with ECU’s which were calibrated for larger 36# injectors. These will work with slightly larger injectors installed. An "LA2 or LA3 ECU" from an 88-89 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, along with the T-bird Vane Air Meter (VAM) can be made to work with the larger injectors if you adjust the VAM. A better solution is to buy a Moates ¼ horse tuner, so you can tune the entire system, which is really the key to making more power.. To solidify the fuel system, I would suggest the installation of a 255 liter per hour fuel pump as well.



The Exhaust system would be next on the list of things to improve. Increasing the exhaust pipe diameter coming from the turbo makes a big difference. Several companies sell bolt on down pipes for your car, click link---->(2.3T Downpipes) which not only increase HP, but improve your boost response as well. You need to check your state emission laws regarding these, before you start swapping out parts. A high flow catalytic converter and a 2.5 or 3” diameter cat back exhaust would also be a good idea, for reaching 250 HP.


A camshaft swap would be the next item on my list. There are dozens of cam grinds available. Generally speaking, cams with more than .425” of gross lift require the use of stiffer valve springs, which you should keep in mind if you’re on a budget. .425" of lift is more than enough to reach a 250 HP goal.


The stock F.I. 2.3L turbo engines, are strong enough to withstand a 350 HP level, so other than a normal rebuild with forged pistons, I would only suggest a windage tray and some ARP rod bolts as added insurance.
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Old October 9th, 2011, 05:39 PM   #3
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Thanks so much for the info, my brother and nephews all drive 5.0 mustangs, and they brag that I will never beat them at our drag strip here, so I trying to make em eat their words come summer of 2012.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 02:54 AM   #4
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One more question, would an intercooler at all help with the horsepower increase, being I have NEVER owned a vehicle with a turbo before, I honestly have no idea how an intercooler works other than it it cools down the air being forced by the turbo, with that being said would adding an intercooler be a reasonable thing to do? or just a time and money waste?
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Old October 10th, 2011, 07:55 AM   #5
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One more question, would an intercooler at all help with the horsepower increase

Definitely, I should have included that in my first post. Believe it or not, you can get a decent IC kit for $200 on EBay. Here's a link to a sample.


Intercooler 25"X12"x3"+ Turbo Piping kit + BOV Mustang | eBay
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Old October 10th, 2011, 08:07 AM   #6
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Thanks so much for the info, my brother and nephews all drive 5.0 mustangs, and they brag that I will never beat them at our drag strip here, so I trying to make em eat their words come summer of 2012.

You are very welcome. Your brother and nephews are in for a surprise. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to dip into the low 13 second range with 250 HP at the rear wheels. If I weren't running a fragile automatic transmission in my car, I would turn up the boost and drop close to another second off of my E.T.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 01:03 PM   #7
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been looking for 2 days now, and havent found any T-Bird Turbo ECUs on ebay, or any ford aftermarket sites at all. Any ideas where else I can look to find one?
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Old October 10th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #8
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Just to make sure I understand your first post, I can either get the ECU & VAM or get the MOATES 1/4 Horse tuner? If thats correct where would I find the Moates tuner?
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Old October 10th, 2011, 07:18 PM   #9
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In either instance, I would suggest that you grab a VAM from an 87 or later T-bird, which flows about 80 more CFM than the one your car came with. I highly suggest that you learn as much as you can about the Moates tuner, especially if you might want to upgrade power at a later time.

Here is the link to the 1/4 Horse

QuarterHorse for Fords: Moates.Net

Here is the link to EEC tuning. Read that page a couple of times and then start browsing the FAQ section. It all seems very complicated at first, but as you read through more and more, you will start to really build your knowledge base. There are plenty of shops that perform tuning as well, so if this seems like too much initially, a shop can make these adjustments and can show you what they did. Once you master this, you will be a very hard guy to beat.

EEC tuning link:EECTuning.org • View topic - Where do I start? [BEGINNERS LOOK HERE]
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Old October 12th, 2011, 12:35 PM   #10
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Been doing a bit more research, and you seem to know more about the turbo'd 2.3l's than anyone else I know or found, so I am asking you, whats the max PSI my bottom end and internals can hold, and what would you suggest for PSI that wont blow my engine, like a safe PSI zone.
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Old October 12th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #11
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Good info here. I like it! OHC, how much should I expect it to cost for a rebuild on say a Turbo Coupe motor? Including your suggested additions of ARP hardware and a windage tray?
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Old October 12th, 2011, 08:35 PM   #12
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well I have had all the stuff he said priced on ebay and other websites, just for the ARP hardware its gonna run me about $800 and as for rebuilding, I am paying someone to rebuild my engine for $800 but that doesnt include any parts such as rings, and gaskets
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Old October 13th, 2011, 02:04 AM   #13
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ARP hardware its gonna run me about $800

If you guys want to build a perfect, bullit proof motor, then I can make some suggestions, based on science and 20+ years of engine building/ machining and racing experience.

It is very important that you do NOT use a high volume oil pump in your rebuild; if you do it will most likely lead to the destruction of your aux shaft and distributor gear, as well as your engine. An original equipment oil pump would be my first choice.

This is all you will need, as far as special hardware is concerned. Note the billet intermediate shaft is optional, but HIGHLY SUGGESTED:

ARP-151-6002 Ford Pinto 2300cc Inline 4 Rod Bolt Kit $31.00


Speed Pro forged turbo pistons (set of 4) $ 221.56


Esslinger Windage tray rear sump
Code:E2685
Price: $109.00


Esslinger 2.3 Billet intermediate shaft kit includes bronze dist gear. Get their bearings for this item as well!
Code:E2198K
Price: $265.00


Cometic C5369-027 3.830 MLS Head Gasket .027 - Ford 2300
Item Id:CMG-C5369-027 $66.28



Cometic C5369-027 3.830 MLS Head Gasket .027 - Ford 2300

ARP-151-6002 Ford Pinto 2300cc Inline 4 Rod Bolt Kit

Bronze distributor gear: Esslinger Online Store


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-L2500F75MM/
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Old October 13th, 2011, 09:45 AM   #14
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What is the max PSI my bottom end and internals can hold


I hate indirect answers, but in this case I would be doing you a disservice by throwing out a number, but honestly, no two cars are going to be alike and there are quite a few variables which affect detonation, which is what will ultimately determine your safe boost pressure.

Obviously, detonation/ pre-ignition is very destructive, so tuning your engine so this doesn’t occur should be a high priority. Variables in this mix are; fuel quality, ignition timing, combustion chamber design/shape, spark plug heat range, compression ratio, fuel trim and camshaft timing events, specifically, the intake valve closing event, which determines the effective stroke length of your engine. Fortunately, you have some control over most of those variables and this is where tuning comes into play.

There is an X factor here as well. Boost vs. ignition timing. If you play around with ignition timing on a turbocharged car, you will learn very quickly that you can pick up a lot of low speed torque and overall throttle response by advancing the ignition timing, but by doing this, you are pushing your engine into detonation when it reaches full boost at the top of the RPM range. By lowering boost by a couple of Lbs. you can still keep this low end power at the expense of some top end power and in many cases the car will accelerate much quicker in this configuration.
Variable ignition timing and boost controllers are popular items for this reason and what I would ultimately suggest you use to determine the best PSI for your specific application.
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Old October 14th, 2011, 07:16 AM   #15
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Thanks a bunch OHC. Looking at a few SVO's and a few foxes to possibly swap a Turbocoupe/SVO motor into.
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Old October 14th, 2011, 08:59 AM   #16
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Jake, I think that's a probably a good way to go. I have been shopping for SVO's lately and have been surprised at just how cheaply they can be acquired, especially in non running condition. My friend Picked this beauty up for a little over $2000. It needs paint, but otherwise it looks like a new car with just 37K original miles on it. I can't get over how nice this car is to drive.






This one is $1000, but is somewhat disassembled. It has back registration fees due as well. Still, I think I would like to pick it up, since the body is straight and rust free and most of the parts to put it back together are there.
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Old October 14th, 2011, 02:05 PM   #17
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Nice! I found one for $3000 with low original miles and it supposedly run's great. I gotta sell all my parts and my Ranger then I'm in the market.
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Old October 15th, 2011, 02:02 PM   #18
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Hey OHC, I been looking and found several 42lbs injectors, but most em are for 5.0 mustangs, will those work for my 2.3l, and if not...have any ideas where to look?
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Old October 16th, 2011, 10:24 PM   #19
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Go to the first link and read, then follow second link for injectors.

Bosch_503cc_Injector_028050403

CFI BOSCH E0SE-A1A E0SEA1A 0280-150-400 0280150400 $29.99 MM 0280150400

Fuel Injector Prices
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Old October 18th, 2011, 09:51 PM   #20
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Here are 2 links for more info on 2.3 turbo I have a 88 5spd, 355 rear, vert with 36lbs inj, la3 ecm, big vam, front mount Volvo intercooler,custom intake, 5.0 tb, t3 turbo 3inch to dual 2.5 free flow muffs and tails bopart 1.5 cam 21lbs of boost and am running about 280 295 hp so it can be done when tuned properly Stinger Performance Forum - Home
TurboFord.org Forums
here is a link to my ride mustang vert verbo pictures by clash69 - Photobucket
the stinger site also has parts
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