2.3 N/A Performance Thread - Page 5
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Old March 4th, 2011, 01:40 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by 89Bullitt View Post
You know you can hear the difference between a egr car and a non egr car at idle, right?
No you cant, i have a Mustang and a Ranger with 2.3l's that both HAD EGR on them when i first got them. I have taken the egr off of both because the were carboned up and i had the engine out. They run exactly the same without as they did with. If you dont belive me you can buy the books used for instructional purposes at a GOOD Automotive school, and read about the egr. The Egr runs off of ported vacuum that is only present at part throttle. WOT and idle have no ported vac.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 07:25 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by Mikel89us View Post
No you cant, i have a Mustang and a Ranger with 2.3l's that both HAD EGR on them when i first got them. I have taken the egr off of both because the were carboned up and i had the engine out. They run exactly the same without as they did with. If you dont belive me you can buy the books used for instructional purposes at a GOOD Automotive school, and read about the egr. The Egr runs off of ported vacuum that is only present at part throttle. WOT and idle have no ported vac.
yes you can

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Old March 11th, 2011, 05:23 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by 89Bullitt View Post
yes you can

Prove it, I have been religiously using 2.3l's for the last 5 1/2 years. I have NEVER noticed a difference. Also i stand by my argument that the egr is inactive at idle. Now with that said, IF there was carbon build up that was not letting the egr pintle seal properly, that would cause poor performance at any condition where egr is not supposed to be there. That is not the egr causing a different idle. It is a dirty system that is in need of cleaning. I will say this again, EGR is not active at idle. It is active in times of high probability of NOx emissions. This is (for example) under light or medium load, where the ECU is running in closed loop and trying to run as close to 14.7:1 A/F ratio as possible. The lean mixture has a higher probability for lean high cyl temps. Under heavy load the ECU automatically drops out of closed loop operation because it enriches the A/F ratio (witch the O2 cannot read). Under a heavy load they disregard emissions (especially on OBD1 systems) and they do not try to combat NOx and risk sacrificing power. Another example of this is the A/C cutout at WOT. They know at WOT you more than likely need more power than A/C. If you still don't believe me, I will send you copies of the pages in instructional books on the EGR system.
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Old March 12th, 2011, 03:11 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Mikel89us View Post
Prove it, I have been religiously using 2.3l's for the last 5 1/2 years. I have NEVER noticed a difference. Also i stand by my argument that the egr is inactive at idle. Now with that said, IF there was carbon build up that was not letting the egr pintle seal properly, that would cause poor performance at any condition where egr is not supposed to be there. That is not the egr causing a different idle. It is a dirty system that is in need of cleaning. I will say this again, EGR is not active at idle. It is active in times of high probability of NOx emissions. This is (for example) under light or medium load, where the ECU is running in closed loop and trying to run as close to 14.7:1 A/F ratio as possible. The lean mixture has a higher probability for lean high cyl temps. Under heavy load the ECU automatically drops out of closed loop operation because it enriches the A/F ratio (witch the O2 cannot read). Under a heavy load they disregard emissions (especially on OBD1 systems) and they do not try to combat NOx and risk sacrificing power. Another example of this is the A/C cutout at WOT. They know at WOT you more than likely need more power than A/C. If you still don't believe me, I will send you copies of the pages in instructional books on the EGR system.
Have you placed a block off plate on the egr valve?
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Old March 15th, 2011, 08:03 PM   #85
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hey there guys i gotta few questions for my 2.3. this is a straight racing motor, i use it in demo derby cars. I have recently sent my head and intake off to get ported. the head is stock other then that and the intake is a race prepped efi intake with carb adapter. i am running a holley 350 carb on this and wondering what size jets would be best, and is the stock fuel pump going to deliver enough fuel? or will i need to set up an inline pump?
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Old March 16th, 2011, 05:19 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by 89Bullitt View Post
Have you placed a block off plate on the egr valve?
I will refer you to another post.

egr...i know

And i have done everything from venting them to atmosphere, to blocking them off (with a plate), to welding the tube shut. No difference at all.
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Old March 16th, 2011, 05:20 PM   #87
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I take that back, if you remove it completely, you trip a check engine light.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 09:59 AM   #88
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Ok so i was just wondering,what cold air intake would work. would a 1990 honda civic cold air intake work? Is there a cold air intkae that anyone would recomend?
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Old March 17th, 2011, 07:51 PM   #89
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Bullit, I like you, so don't take this the wrong way, but I have to agree with Mike on this one. I recently had MY own Mustang on the dyno again and I had the EGR on and off of the car for various reasons not related to tuning. As Mike indicated, the EGR is inactive under WOT so the net difference in power is Zero. This is yet another urban legend.

Rp94 Cobra, the stock Mustang 2.3l airbox works very well, even with a modified engine, if you remove the plastic baffles from the intake muffler and install a K&N air filter. My last dyno run at 248 HP showed very little difference when I pulled the hose from the stock airbox and ran an open intake.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 08:38 AM   #90
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I'm only 16,which explains my curiousity and any questions i ask. I got a 1993 notch rolling chasis and then my dad traded another one of his 5.0 motors for an 88 2.3 with a freshly rebuilt AOD and we put that 2.3 with the AOD in my notch. Its not a bad motor at all but im really wanting more power. so i read this whole fourm and browsed the web alot and i think i know what im gonnna do now.
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Old April 2nd, 2011, 02:23 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by nischeum View Post
hey there guys i gotta few questions for my 2.3. this is a straight racing motor, i use it in demo derby cars. I have recently sent my head and intake off to get ported. the head is stock other then that and the intake is a race prepped efi intake with carb adapter. i am running a holley 350 carb on this and wondering what size jets would be best, and is the stock fuel pump going to deliver enough fuel? or will i need to set up an inline pump?
The stock fuel pump will be sufficient. The mechanical pump on the block will feed the engine to all the demands you could put on it. (N/A and to a 2.5l displacement that i know of for sure) As for jet sizes, i have never used a 350, never came across one. Just test it out. Go run it hard at high RPM then immediately shut it off. Pull out the plugs, if they are tan or white, you need bigger jets. If they are a dark golden brownish color, they are perfect. and ofcourse if they are black you need smaller jets.
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 01:16 PM   #92
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do i need to add a stage 1 cam to my 91 mustang?
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Old August 9th, 2011, 12:44 PM   #93
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Knock Sensor


Where can i find this Sensor so i can take it off?
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Old August 9th, 2011, 08:25 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Durden's Fox View Post
Where can i find this Sensor so i can take it off?
What year of car, and what sensor?
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 08:08 PM   #95
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how on earth are you getting 41 miles a gallon?! i just bought an 88 with a 2.3 and automatic for a commuter car. tell me your secrets?

"Rob
1987 Mustang 2.3 LX Convert (T5) project 2.5 N/A HP
1991 Mustang 2.3 LX Convert (A4LD)
1992 Mustang 2.3 LX Convert (A4LD) 41.52 mpg!!
1994 Capri XR2 1.6 Turbo Convert
1999 ZX2 S/R 2.0 Coupe"
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