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Discussing This sucks ass!! in the 2005 - 2009 Forum. So my clutch is starting to slip in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear now...I have ...

       

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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:34 PM   #1
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This sucks ass!!


So my clutch is starting to slip in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear now...I have 20,000 miles on the car now. I had a few questions.
1) How much longer do I have before the clutch goes out (driving very easy)
2) How much does a new clutch cost with install?
3) Should I take this as an opportunity to upgrade? (getting a blower in 8 months...)
4) Any other suggestions?

Thanks guys
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:36 PM   #2
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Yes upgrade now. If it is starting to slip I would relace it pretty soon. It should cost about $400-$500 to install it.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:37 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 06RedfireGT
Yes upgrade now. If it is starting to slip I would relace it pretty soon. It should cost about $400-$500 to install it.
I am not too familiar with the aftermarket clutches...any recommendations? Centerforce? Stage 2, 3?
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:38 PM   #4
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Re: This sucks ass!!


Originally Posted by 06saleen3v
So my clutch is starting to slip in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear now...I have 20,000 miles on the car now. I had a few questions.
1) How much longer do I have before the clutch goes out (driving very easy)
2) How much does a new clutch cost with install?
3) Should I take this as an opportunity to upgrade? (getting a blower in 8 months...)
4) Any other suggestions?

Thanks guys
1. That depends on how bad it is now.
2. That depends on the clutch you choose.
3. Yes.
4. Yes. Clicky: Link!
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:39 PM   #5
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Also some good choices here: Clicky
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:41 PM   #6
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As for other suggestions, also think about upgrading to an aluminum flywheel & drive shaft, if you have the money. The reduction in rotating mass will give you a noticeable increase in performance. The drive shaft alone in our cars weighs 42 lbs. A decent aluminum one weighs 20 lbs. 22 lbs. doesn't seem like a huge savings in weight, but it's big when it comes to rotating mass.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:48 PM   #7
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If you like to drag, then centerforce isn't the best choice, that's more of a road-course clutch, just because the weights that assist the clamp will slow down your shifts...go with a spec or Ram clutch...I'm looking at the ram twin disk...it's overkill like a mofo, but it's something I'll never hve to replace, even if i max out the KB...IMO Ram is the best bang-for-the-buck, and I've heard some people aren't very happy with the spec units. I haven't used either pesonally.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by TheUNZippee!
As for other suggestions, also think about upgrading to an aluminum flywheel & drive shaft, if you have the money. The reduction in rotating mass will give you a noticeable increase in performance. The drive shaft alone in our cars weighs 42 lbs. A decent aluminum one weighs 20 lbs. 22 lbs. doesn't seem like a huge savings in weight, but it's big when it comes to rotating mass.
I have already looked into the driveshaft and will be getting one come the end of the year...not too sure about the flywheel at the moment though
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:55 PM   #9
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Your going to want a centerforce stageIII clutch, I have one in mine with an aluminum flywheel (needed) The only bad thing about it is you will need to be able to squat 200lbs to work the clutch when you first get it in because it will be really tight but it will loosen up to about the feel of a mach1 stock clutch. And another thing, it comes with weights on it to help the clutch grab and they will chatter a little at low rpms and engaging the clutch from a stop.

There is also the spec clutches but those are annoying to drive on the street and in traffic because they grab so hard that you are either stalling the car or spinning your tires. Install is inda expensive on the 05 and up mustangs because of hydralic clutch, I think it costs around $750-800 to buy a new clutch, flywheel, and have installed by professional
 
Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 06saleen3v
Originally Posted by TheUNZippee!
As for other suggestions, also think about upgrading to an aluminum flywheel & drive shaft, if you have the money. The reduction in rotating mass will give you a noticeable increase in performance. The drive shaft alone in our cars weighs 42 lbs. A decent aluminum one weighs 20 lbs. 22 lbs. doesn't seem like a huge savings in weight, but it's big when it comes to rotating mass.
I have already looked into the driveshaft and will be getting one come the end of the year...not too sure about the flywheel at the moment though
If you have the scratch, may as well do it while she's all apart.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 07:03 PM   #11
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Ok let me state what I am looking for....I want a clutch that is not really hard to engage and that will handle up to 500rwhp, I want it to feel as CLOSE to stock as possible...I realize it wont feel the same but the closer the better..not super expensive of course..thanks
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 07:08 PM   #12
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Just make sure the clutch is capable of handling the power you will eventually be throwing at your car. If you check out those links I gave you, you can call either of those companies to find out more specific detail if needed.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 07:12 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TheUNZippee!
Just make sure the clutch is capable of handling the power you will eventually be throwing at your car. If you check out those links I gave you, you can call either of those companies to find out more specific detail if needed.
Thanks Zippie
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SCT XCal2
C&L CAI
Hurst Short Throw Shifter
Saleen 3:73 gears
Smoked Tailights
3M ClearBra
Tint
 
Old October 22nd, 2007, 07:14 PM   #14
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Anytime man. Another thing to remember is you're going to have somewhat of a trade-off when it comes to a performance clutch. The more power it can handle, the heavier the pedal will be.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 08:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TheUNZippee!
Anytime man. Another thing to remember is you're going to have somewhat of a trade-off when it comes to a performance clutch. The more power it can handle, the heavier the pedal will be.
Yea I knew that. The thing I was curious about were the stages and recommended brands..Thanks again bud
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2006 Saleen 3V #483
301rwhp 316rwtq
Pypes O/R H-Pipe
SCT XCal2
C&L CAI
Hurst Short Throw Shifter
Saleen 3:73 gears
Smoked Tailights
3M ClearBra
Tint
 
Old October 22nd, 2007, 08:38 PM   #16
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No problem man. Nice ride too, by the way.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 09:28 PM   #17
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um isnt there problems with aftermarket clutches and flywheels? like at high rpms... i use to read all about that... did the aftermarket companies solve this??
 
Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jat
um isnt there problems with aftermarket clutches and flywheels? like at high rpms... i use to read all about that... did the aftermarket companies solve this??
Only if you buy shitty stuff. And it's always possible to get a defucktive part. But typically an after market clutch>factory clutch. A half decent after market piece will have much higher clamping force than a factory unit. That's why the pedal gets heavier the stiffer you go.

With the clutch, you perverts.
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Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:37 PM   #19
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don't forget new throw out bearings and bolts with the spec clutch you will need a new flywheel not sure about others but you well need the new bearings and bolts
 
Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:41 PM   #20
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True that
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