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Discussing Kenne Bell in the 2005 - 2009 Forum. To my kenne bell stangers,does your car idle smoothly or does it have a tremor ...

       

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Old November 3rd, 2007, 11:22 AM   #1
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Kenne Bell


To my kenne bell stangers,does your car idle smoothly or does it have a tremor you feel in the back of your seat?Also does your exhaust make any slight popping in between?All at idle.The car tremors comes and goes not constant especially when first started and the idle begins to fall.No codes no warning nothing.Gas milage seems to be less unless i relly baby but one stomp and she drinks is this normal.When i hear the slight pop i feel the tremor,any help with this.
 

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Old November 3rd, 2007, 11:24 AM   #2
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might be a fouled plug, how is the air/fuel ratio
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 11:46 AM   #3
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air fuel was in the 11s from bottom of the run but went to 12s at the top.The dyno guy said it was making ten psi but it should make 5psi.Where should i start?
 
Old November 3rd, 2007, 11:48 AM   #4
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I didn't gap them bren told me they don't gap the hto unless it is a very high horse power application.
 
Old November 3rd, 2007, 12:33 PM   #5
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you have the non-intercooled kit?

i gap my plugs to .035"
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 12:41 PM   #6
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Yeah i do, i'll check the plugs, do you think i could have a cat problem or a vac leak cause it sounds like an exhaust noise along with the tremors rpm gauge don,t move much,would a check engine light come on for these things?
 
Old November 3rd, 2007, 03:57 PM   #7
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so you are making 10 psi. with a non intercooled kit?

if so not good you are going to blow that thing up, if you didn't already hurt the motor with it on the dyno.

the most non intercooled boost is 5 psi. because of the heat, i would get some ht0 autolites and gap at .035"

what kind of cats do you have on the car? sometime you will get a check engine light but not all the time, i blew out the driverside highflow cat from dynatech with the longtube headers and took both cats out and i never got a check engine light

what kind of numbers did you put down on the dyno?
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 04:05 PM   #8
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10psi on the non intercooled kit is a no no
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 04:30 PM   #9
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Check your flanges connecting the X-pipe to the manifolds. Sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
 
Old November 3rd, 2007, 05:23 PM   #10
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Guys i'm not pulleyed to push 10psi i have a 4inch and some pulley,i am also running stock exhaust except for pypes axle backs.Just how they sent it i installed it and uploaded their tune,car runs fine just nervous at idle.I also have the hto in the car but i did not gap them because brenspeed owner said it was not needed unless i was putting out alot.Called k/b said you have the right pulley,the tuner claims to have an 06 with a k/b i asked to see his data sheet w/ iat and boost his said his iat is 62 degrees and making 17psi with a 8-9 psi pulley Then said he was having problems with the software that day.Still having problems if you ask me Then said you need a tune.
 
Old November 3rd, 2007, 05:49 PM   #11
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LT headers and an o/r midpipe will lower the boost pressure.
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 08:26 PM   #12
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that is close the 4" pulley made 8 psi. on my car but i have dynatech longtubes
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Old November 3rd, 2007, 08:56 PM   #13
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I had to gap my plugs to .025 to get the spark blowout to quit, you need to gap those plugs down or you're going to go through a lot of them. I guarantee the ones you have in there are carbon-run and you'll need a new set anyways, so gap those. And yes, my car does have a lope in the idle, I was thinking it was because I gapped the plugs so tight, but in your case it's because you need to gap the plugs down...And stick with the Motorcraft Plugs!! My car hated the Autolites, I went through several sets trying to chase down a spark problem, and the Motorcraft plugs just work better. And yes, they are the stock heat range!! So for all of you who are brainwashed into thinking you need to run a colder plug, I'd be happy to discuss that with you on another thread. Who installed your blower?? There is no way you could be pushing 10 psi, in my turbo days I'd check for a vacuum problem, BOV or wastegate, or boost solenoid...but it's a blower...it will only boost what your pulley tells it to, plus or minus a couple pounds depending on weather, i found out the other day...
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Old November 4th, 2007, 11:30 AM   #14
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You're right i couldn't be pushing 10psi unless kenne bell f...ked up in the tune.I going to get a second review on another dyno because those guys seem a bit upset i din't pay them near $2,000.00 to do somehting i can do myself.I'm going to look at the plugs today k/b suggested one heat range cooler especially in my case no ic,which is all going to change pretty soon.My numbers were 382 rwh 369 rtq k/b said if i was pushing 10 i would make 450 or so but no ic hot ait timing being pulled by the engine who the hell knows.been also worried about those cats probably going to try pypes o/r h descent price and would sound awsome.
 
Old November 4th, 2007, 02:38 PM   #15
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I've talked to Jim Bell personally on the phone about the plug heat range this summer when I first started having the spark blowout issue. From his mouth he told me the only reason they suggest a colder plug is because that's what everyone else does. You're not heating the air charge or compressing the air as much as a roots blower, plus the knock sensors will detect any knock while under WOT, so you still have that layer of protection. I'm not experiencing any problems whatsoever running stock plugs gapped properly. The only downside is that if it's really hot, you will lose some power due to the ecu pulling timing. But that's with any vehicle.

There's no way the tune will affect the pressure coming out of that blower...just the belt. It sounds like the shop you were at needs some serious help of their own. I would definitely go somewhere else. And yes, you will almost never see the max h.p. that your combo is tuned for, your car will pull timing anytime it detects knock, so in the summertime when it's hot, you'll never get the full h.p. that it's set up for. That's true for every car, any power adder, no matter what. I've had the best power between 50-60 degrees ambient temp on 92 octane, but it's still just a little shy of the 445 h.p. at the wheels that they advertise. It's the nature of the beast. Every car's a little different.
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Old November 4th, 2007, 02:48 PM   #16
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grabber523 what did the high rpm look like on the dyno, my car from 4800 rpm to 6000 rpm spikes alot, thought is was spark blow out so went to ht0 and gapped to .035" and still doing it, who told you to gap down to .025"
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Old November 4th, 2007, 03:17 PM   #17
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So you suggests removing the autolite htos, by Monday i would knoew if i could order a intercooler or not,its just the lope you talked about that i feel i don't like also that sound of a burble at idle i also don't like and to make matters worst Jim Bell said he suggest something because another manufacturer said so.Dam it what ever happened to extensive research.Man i tell you the blower is wonderful and powerful but i feel they diregarded the rest of the car, the windshield washer best i have seen now it uis limp because the pump has so much further to push. intercooler 7psi pulley and hopefulley i would be intirely happy.I wanna drop bombs on these other car owners who pulled up next to a older not concerned with racing driver and blow them away,which the car did with a cai and a shelf tune.One car thought he got me and thatsb because he is at least a thousand pounds lighter and pushing a turbo,and still he had hell with someone that don,t powershift and rolling battle armored vehicle.
 
Old November 4th, 2007, 04:51 PM   #18
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05 mustang, grabber and I worked on a majority of his blow out problems. JDM and several other shops are taking the gap down as far as .021 on several of their 10 to 14 psi cars to cure the spark blow out issues.

I did a turbo car for a local about 2 months ago and the only way to stop blow out was at .025 and he's still running strong now.

Grabber went in increments of about .002 until he eliminated the blow out. Last I heard he still felt a little something not sure it's cured all the way.

I'm running hto's on my conservative tune gapped at .032 with no trouble and on my race tune with 110 in the tank I run on another set of hto's gapped down to .028 I haven't had any blow out but the tuner (Kurgan) up front suggested gapping down to eliminate any blow out troubles.
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Old November 4th, 2007, 06:45 PM   #19
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What does it feel like when there is blow out and could that happen at 5psi
 
Old November 4th, 2007, 08:30 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 05mustang_kb_charged
grabber523 what did the high rpm look like on the dyno, my car from 4800 rpm to 6000 rpm spikes alot, thought is was spark blow out so went to ht0 and gapped to .035" and still doing it, who told you to gap down to .025"
If you check the thread titled "Aftermarket coil packs" Emay and I had a tough time figuring out what i was doing wrong...turns out the Autolite plugs I was running, all 3 sets, were crap. That got expensive. He knows a tuner that has been gapping all their plugs down to .025 to .028, and that's where I had to set mine to eliminate the power loss and lurching...I didn't want to gap them that tight, but that's where it works. I haven't run it on a dyno since I got the gap figured out, but I had the same spiking on my first few dyno runs too...I hope to see a butter smooth power curve on my next pull, plus the 30 or so horsepower that just never showed up to the party after the install. I do all my own work, so I go with what I find works...so .025 to .028. Try it and let me know how it goes if you get to a dyno before I do!
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