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Old December 10th, 2008, 03:57 PM   #1
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Wheel Hop!


Hey guys i just got my new 05 GT with a 5 speed, and when i get on it real hard in first gear i get wheel hop? my 02 would just spin them and everything was good. But this one everything is shaking? Traction control was off also? Does yours do this and how can i fix it? Thanks
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:00 PM   #2
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Lower control arms will fix your wheelhop...PM 07stanggt or mustang fanatic and they can hook you up with them for very little...
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:11 PM   #3
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I have the lower control arms on sale. thats what you need, maybe those and some relocation brackets depending on how much you want to fix it. People think the brackets are only for lowered cars but thats not really accurate.

Another thing that can get rid of wheel hop is better tires.

BMR heavy duty billet Control Arms
BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets

Or the cheap lower control arms

BMR TUBULAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS

Last edited by 07stanggt; December 10th, 2008 at 04:14 PM.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:26 PM   #4
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Yea LCAs will get rid of that. Luckily I have not had a problem with wheel hop. I still have my stock LCA's also. I have CHE LCAs which are nice and are great quality. They are usually cheaper than the BMR LCA's also.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:37 PM   #5
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07 and fanatic, how much are we looking at?
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Originally Posted by 07stanggt View Post
You would think they used camm'd LS1's to launch space shuttles.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:41 PM   #6
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I linked the BMR arms billet, and boxed.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:43 PM   #7
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Does BMR make a spherical bearing non-adjustable control arm?
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:44 PM   #8
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why are the tubular ones so much cheaper? and what's so much cheaper in the material/design as in whats going to give me less stability/wheel hop than the other ones?
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Originally Posted by 07stanggt View Post
You would think they used camm'd LS1's to launch space shuttles.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by beefmobile View Post
07 and fanatic, how much are we looking at?
For MM Members the CHE

CHE Severe Duty Lower Control Arms $195
Tubular Lower Control Arms $125

FREE shipping
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:51 PM   #10
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hhhmmmm doesn't sound like a bad deal MstgFan. what's the qaulity difference between these and the bmr's?
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Originally Posted by 07stanggt View Post
You would think they used camm'd LS1's to launch space shuttles.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:53 PM   #11
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i have J&M lowers (one of the cheapest) and they are very nice and sturdy........also NO more wheel hop. J&M just redesigned their bushings not too long ago (i have the newer ones) and they are actually very good quality for what you pay. But, the more you pay the better product you will get most of the time.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:56 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by beefmobile View Post
hhhmmmm doesn't sound like a bad deal MstgFan. what's the qaulity difference between these and the bmr's?
CHE is great quality, the same and if not better than BMR. CHE is a small company, so they have a lot to loose if they are not good quality. I talk with the owner often and he is dedicated to quality products. I have the CHE UCA and UCA mount and it was a solid and good quality piece. I also have BMR stuff on my car and I would say they are close in quality if not the same.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Towelly View Post
Does BMR make a spherical bearing non-adjustable control arm?

yes they do.

Originally Posted by mustang fanatic View Post
For MM Members the CHE

CHE Severe Duty Lower Control Arms $195
Tubular Lower Control Arms $125

FREE shipping
which actually is only $1.85 cheaper then the boxed steel BMR arms from me.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:58 PM   #14
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which actually is only $1.85 cheaper then the boxed steel BMR arms from me.
Thats still a $1.85 the customer saves
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Old December 10th, 2008, 04:59 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mustang fanatic View Post
CHE is great quality, the same and if not better than BMR. CHE is a small company, so they have a lot to loose if they are not good quality. I talk with the owner often and he is dedicated to quality products. I have the CHE UCA and UCA mount and it was a solid and good quality piece. I also have BMR stuff on my car and I would say they are close in quality if not the same.
If not better the BMR? In what way is that round control arm better then bmr?
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Old December 10th, 2008, 05:00 PM   #16
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I had the understanding that wheel hop would be corrected by changing the stock rims and tires to 18x10 and 18x9. I am about to pull the trigger on this. Am I better off by looking at LCAs or will the rims and tires do the job?

Thanks
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Old December 10th, 2008, 05:01 PM   #17
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rich-
I remember you saying that the relocation brackets are just as important if not more? I don't take my car to the strip, its a dd but I do like to get on it time from time. W/ the eibach pro kit would I be alright going w/ the "cheaper" tublar lca's w/out the brackets? Thanks guru. ha
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Old December 10th, 2008, 05:05 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 07stanggt View Post
If not better the BMR? In what way is that round control arm better then bmr?
I was not talking about the quality of one specific product to another, I was talking about the quality in all the products. Quality - what raw materials are used, fit, finish, how the product performs. Those types of aspects. When I recieved my BMR stuff for my car and compared it to the CHE, I felt as though the CHE was better quality looks wise and struture. I also had trouble getting things to fit on my car from BMR but the CHE piece was a lot smoother. . I dunno, just my opinion.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 05:06 PM   #19
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humphry-
that is one, but expensive way to get away from wheel hop, only because the wheels/tires are heavier and have more surface area to grip....but i don't know if it will eliminate it completely...
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Originally Posted by 07stanggt View Post
You would think they used camm'd LS1's to launch space shuttles.
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Old December 10th, 2008, 05:09 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Humphry View Post
I had the understanding that wheel hop would be corrected by changing the stock rims and tires to 18x10 and 18x9. I am about to pull the trigger on this. Am I better off by looking at LCAs or will the rims and tires do the job?

Thanks
In all honesty humphry bigger tires are probably going to go a long way in getting rid of wheel hop. I didnt have wheel hop before i got LCA's and Relo brackets. My 275/40/18 nittos are what got rid of my wheel hop. Before them i had it bad, after them it was gone. there are other benifits to LCAs and brackets though.

Originally Posted by ixmotoxi View Post
rich-
I remember you saying that the relocation brackets are just as important if not more? I don't take my car to the strip, its a dd but I do like to get on it time from time. W/ the eibach pro kit would I be alright going w/ the "cheaper" tublar lca's w/out the brackets? Thanks guru. ha
They are in my opinion.

Here is something for you to think about.

everyone says the relocation brackets are for lowered cars only.

Here is the thing, on the BMR brackets there are two holes to mount your control arms to, a upper and lower hole, if your lowered an 1.5 and you put the lca in the top hole on the relocation bracket, that puts your arm at about a stock trajectory, so you have corrected for your lowering springs.

if you put it in the bottom hole that is for drag racing, its a more aggressive angle on the control arm for launching if your lowered.

most people put them in the lower hole.

Ok so if im not lowered and i get relocation brackets and put the control arm in the top hole, that has the same affect as being lowered and putting the control arm in the bottom hole.

Make any sense?

I have driven my car all three ways, no relocation brackets, LCA in the top hole, lca in the bottom hole. it is the bracket and which hole your mounting the control arm in that has the most affect on handling in my opinion.
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