[SKRAPR]

Guys . . .

I said that I would do a write-up on my Kooks LT and Kooks Cat’d X pipe install experience . . . so here it is. I guess that I should start by saying that I’m not going to try and re-invent the wheel here. There are a lot of write-up’s out there that you can get good advice from. So, I am not going to try and re-hash all of that info. The information that I used was originally provided by “scramblr” . . . so rep’s to him definitely. He is a member of this forum . . . but his write-up is at Kooks Headers Install - WWW.S197FORUM.COM (sorry to mention that here if it upsets anyone)

I am mainly going to try and touch on a few things that I ran into along the way that the write-up’s that I found did not really go into . . . and therefore caught me a little bit off guard.

First, you’ve got to get the stocker mid-pipe off. This is a simple task . . . just follow the attached write-up. However, getting the O2 sensors off is another matter entirely. There are (4) O2 sensors in total that you will take off and reinstall over the course of this process. The (2) located in the stocker cats are pretty easy. You simply unplug the sensors from the car first and then use a crescent wrench to get the sensors out of the cats. You must unplug the O2 sensors before you put the wrench to them . . . or you’ll twist the wires and possibly break them. The other (2) O2 sensors are more difficult. The one on the passenger side is just in front of the cat. However, the plug is all the way around on the top-side of the drive train. Clearance to get your hand in there to unclip it is extremely tight. I tried to force my hand in there at first and nearly got it stuck. Lost some skin getting it back out again. Finally, I decided to go ahead and loosen the bolts holding the whole mid-pipe assembly to the stock headers on the passenger side. Be careful though, your stock mid-pipe is now only supported by the hangers towards the rear of the mid-pipe and dangling by the O2 sensor cable at the front on the passenger side. But with it loose and dangling like that, you can move the stock mid-pipe around a little better in order to get your hand around and on top of the drivetrain for better access and maneuverability to the plug. This particular O2 sensor was a major pain in the ass to get off because it is just so hard to get to the plug. But take a good look at the other O2 plugs because this one has the exact same releasing mechanism and feel your way blindly. It will take a little finesse but you can get it. Just try not to get too frustrated.

The fourth and final O2 sensor is on the driver’s side stock header . . . so it’s different the passenger side. This confused me at first because the Kooks LT headers do not have O2 sensor locations at all. But trust me, there are (4) coming off and (4) going back on. All of the re-installed O2 sensors will be attached to the Kooks Cat’d mid-pipe . . . not the LT headers. Getting the fourth O2 sensor unplugged from the driver’s side stock header was also a little bit difficult. But, get someone to reach down from the top of the engine and hold the other end of the wire steady, and you can get that one off too.

For some reason, the install kit that I got only had (1) O2 sensor extension cable. I ended up needing three. (The fourth one just barely fit . . . and I mean barely) Luckily, I had some wire, solder and heat shrink to just fab up my own. But if you’re not comfortable cutting your stock O2 sensor wires and adding extra, make sure that you order all of the necessary O2 sensor extension cables. It does make a difference which side the O2 sensors are installed on. So be sure and mark which one came from where when you take them off and go to put them back on again.

A few of the write-up’s that I looked at said that you had to take the steering linkage out on the driver’s side to get the stock header out and the new header in on that side. You do not need to do this. Just remove the motor mount like it says for the passenger side and jack the motor up as high as you can. I used my hydraulic jack and a phone book under the oil pan. (Don’t forget to put a jackstand under the drive train – don’t trust the jack) It’s tight . . . but you can do it without taking the steering linkage free.

A note on the stock headers . . . they are held in place with round metal studs that screw into the engine block and a nut that then screws down on top. When you take them free, sometimes just the nut comes off . . . sometimes the whole stud comes out. It does not matter because you want both out. But the studs have a 3/16 hex head. It is best if you use an exact 3/16 hex socket . . . not the sockets that have a lot of extra teeth for ease in fitting onto a nut or bolt. Try to use one that is an exact hexagon. The reason is because these studs are soft. If you do not get them on there exactly right . . . you will round over the edges on the stud. If you do round one over, all is still not lost. Just use two of the nuts that you took off and screw them back onto the stud. Tighten them against each other . . . and use a wrench to slowly turn the stud until it comes free. But if you can get the studs out with the 3/16 hex socket . . . it will go much faster. The new headers have * new bolts that need to be tightened down in a specific order. Make sure that you do this as specified to avoid exhaust leaks around the new headers at the engine block. See the Ford Service manual Ford Service Manuals - IN-VEHICLE REPAIR See exhaust manifold LH & RH.

Once the new headers are on you are pretty much home free. But take a good look at the new mid-pipe. I installed Kooks Cat’d X pipe. If you look, the X pipe has a very slight bend. You can install this upside down if you’re not careful. I did this and had to loosen everything up again and flip it over. The bend in the new X pipe should direct your over-the-axle pipes to run very close to the underside of the car. If you’ve got the X pipe on upside down it will direct the over-the-axle pipe too far downward. It is very subtle but noticeable if you look under the car. When installed properly, you will barely see the pipes hanging down.

One last word about tools: You will need a set of deep sockets at various locations along the way. Most of the nuts/bolts are metric but you will run into a few than are not from time to time. You will also need all different sizes of socket wrench extensions and socket universal drivers. A set of ratcheting wrenches is also nice to have.

So that’s about it. In hindsight, I would say that it really wasn’t that bad even though it did take me literally all weekend. But definitely get a good friend to help . . . just to hand you different tools as your laying under the car. If I had done this completely by myself and had to get up and down every single time that I wanted a socket extension or something . . . it would have taken twice as long. Plus it’s good to have someone there just to talk with to keep you from getting too frustrated. Good luck to anyone trying this in the future. It takes some time and you will bust some knuckles . . . but it really is not that bad.

[JakeM]

Nice write up.

[UrbanRedneck]

The passanger primary 02 connectr is pretty easy to reach from the top if you remove the battery and battery tray, takes like 30 seconds with air tools. And you don't need to take them out of the midpipe while it's in the car, if you are careful you can pull the pipe out witht he 02s still in it and have a much easier time gettig them off.

Another tip for your reference to the socket type for the studs, you are reffering to a 6-point socket, so make sure you have a set of 6 point sockets. 12 point sockets are for 12 point bolts, not for ease of use, and you should NEVER use one on a 6-point bolt if you can avoid it, especially an exhaust bolt as they round easily.

I haven't swapped headers yet, but with a 3/8 impact wrench, a universal joint and sockets, an 02 sensor wrench, and an extension about 18 inches long the stock mid-pipe can easily be out of the car in 10 minutes, leaving plenty of time to jump through hoops getting the headers in IIRC, the manifold bolts and clamp bolts are either 13 or 15mm. Fords and GMs tend to use a lot of 7, 8, 10, 13, 15, and 18mm stuff, where the Japs like 10, 12, 14, 17, and the Europeans use EVERY socket, torx, allen, and inverted torx to make your life a living hell and your socket collection HUGE hahaha.

[hammeron]

excellent write up SKRAPR, thanks
for taking the time to do it

[david01130]

I was thinking about doing this in the next few weeks. I dont have access to all my tools but have the necessary things and can but more. Does the engine have to be lifted to get the headers out and in? Or can I just take out the steering linkage?

[SKRAPR]

The passanger primary 02 connectr is pretty easy to reach from the top if you remove the battery and battery tray, takes like 30 seconds with air tools. And you don't need to take them out of the midpipe while it's in the car, if you are careful you can pull the pipe out witht he 02s still in it and have a much easier time gettig them off.

That would have been good to know. I must have spent an hour and a half cursing at that plug.

[SKRAPR]

Does the engine have to be lifted to get the headers out and in? Or can I just take out the steering linkage?

If you are only doing a cat-back or axle-back . . . you will not need to mess around with motor mounts. But yes, if your going to do the headers . . . you will have to take the motor mount off to get the clearance that you need. Actually, the motor mounts and a few other things (starter, etc). Just check out the write-up that I referenced. It has pictures and everything.

[david01130]

dang. Ill probably just go with an off road H and stock headers for now. Nice writeup btw

[usafimj]

When I installed my Kooks LT's I followed the same write-up. I did not remove the motor mounts. The only thing you need to do is loosen the top motor mount nut as much as you can. On the side your working you remove the top motor mount nut and not the opposite. You just have to jack the motor up high enough and the LT will slide right in with no problem. Once I removed the stock manifolds and stock cats is when I transfered everything over.

David I did my install with basic hand tools. I have one of those tools kits from Sears.