Zex Nitrous on/off switch
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Old January 25th, 2009, 10:29 PM   #1
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Zex Nitrous on/off switch


Today I saw my friends Zex Nitrous system that was installed a while back on his 08 GT. There is something about the way it was installed I do not understand. The power wire for the on/off switch was spliced into a wire from the wiring harness that plugs into the fuse panel under the dash on the passenger side. Is this typical? Why would you splice into a wiring harness that possibly going to you PCM? I would think you would run the power wire straight from the battery. Any thoughts?
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Old January 25th, 2009, 10:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by texas96gt View Post
Today I saw my friends Zex Nitrous system that was installed a while back on his 08 GT. There is something about the way it was installed I do not understand. The power wire for the on/off switch was spliced into a wire from the wiring harness that plugs into the fuse panel under the dash on the passenger side. Is this typical? Why would you splice into a wiring harness that possibly going to you PCM? I would think you would run the power wire straight from the battery. Any thoughts?
I would need to see a wiring diagram and a picture of where is spliced in. That could be any one of many non-critical accessories.
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Old January 25th, 2009, 11:10 PM   #3
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^exactly, there are many wires that you can tap into to get power that will not mess anything up. the best way to do it if you are not 100% sure is to place a fuse inline (if it does not already have one) this is to protect the component that the ZEX powerline is being hooked up to.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:00 AM   #4
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Hey texas96gt, I saw the exact same car today. Imagine that I'm glad that you and I spent 4 hours fixing the jacked up wiring that someone didn't get right. It also had 4 (four) holes drilled into the bottom of the trunk that didn't need to be there, and the bottle brackets are so far to the side and crooked in the back, you can't even strap the bottle in correctly.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:00 AM   #5
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not to mention the purge doesn't work
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:00 AM   #6
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we'll have to go in and fix that ourselves too.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:02 AM   #7
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Eeeek... Sounds like you guys are working out someone elses nightmare eh?
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:06 AM   #8
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and let's not mention the header exhaust bolt hole that got stripped out and was causing the exhaust leak, AND the new header gaskets he paid for but instead, someone put the STOCK gaskets back on the car.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:14 AM   #9
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he forgot to put a valve cover bolt back in too, and my brand new nitrous bottle is all scratched up from "someone"
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Old January 26th, 2009, 08:26 AM   #10
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Were the installers reputable? I run into some garbage wiring all the time. If it starts taking me diagnosis time to figure something out, I'll just rewire the entire thing. Run into too many dead ends, splicing, tapping, and whatever else some of these hacks like to do. Sometimes it's quicker to start fresh.

That said, I brought an 8 guage off the battery into a fused distribution block for all of my accessories to come into a main hub. This way I have control of everything independently from all of the rest of the cars wiring. Provides an easy diagnosis point, as well as a central location as things get added on. Plenty of room behind the glove box and under the center counsel for a good sized hub.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 09:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bhblondguy View Post
and let's not mention the header exhaust bolt hole that got stripped out and was causing the exhaust leak, AND the new header gaskets he paid for but instead, someone put the STOCK gaskets back on the car.

A lot of shops will put the stock header back on the car. Its about the best gasket out. But most of the time they would ask the customer first.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 10:57 AM   #12
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if someone asks if you want new gaskets and you tell them yes, and purchase them, they should go on the car. period.

Emay, we did have to start fresh with a few things on that car. That includes going to a different tuner, as well as re-wiring the previous tuners work.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 11:02 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=07stanggt;1777257]A lot of shops will put the stock header gasket back on the car. Its about the best gasket out.

Yup...I went back to stock gaskets during head change.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 11:05 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bhblondguy View Post
if someone asks if you want new gaskets and you tell them yes, and purchase them, they should go on the car. period.

Emay, we did have to start fresh with a few things on that car. That includes going to a different tuner, as well as re-wiring the previous tuners work.
No i agree they should have said something. I was more refering to like people ordering headers online that come with gaskets, kooks for example and then shops that dont use the supplied gaskets, but even then, they should ask first.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 11:08 AM   #15
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exactly. The new shop we took the car to put 3 layer gaskets on the car and fixed the leak. Also they re-tapped the stripped out header bolt hole.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 01:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Emay View Post
Were the installers reputable? I run into some garbage wiring all the time. If it starts taking me diagnosis time to figure something out, I'll just rewire the entire thing. Run into too many dead ends, splicing, tapping, and whatever else some of these hacks like to do. Sometimes it's quicker to start fresh.

That said, I brought an 8 guage off the battery into a fused distribution block for all of my accessories to come into a main hub. This way I have control of everything independently from all of the rest of the cars wiring. Provides an easy diagnosis point, as well as a central location as things get added on. Plenty of room behind the glove box and under the center counsel for a good sized hub.
Erin, What did you use for a distrobution box? That is a great idea.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 02:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Emay View Post
Were the installers reputable? I run into some garbage wiring all the time. If it starts taking me diagnosis time to figure something out, I'll just rewire the entire thing. Run into too many dead ends, splicing, tapping, and whatever else some of these hacks like to do. Sometimes it's quicker to start fresh.

That said, I brought an 8 guage off the battery into a fused distribution block for all of my accessories to come into a main hub. This way I have control of everything independently from all of the rest of the cars wiring. Provides an easy diagnosis point, as well as a central location as things get added on. Plenty of room behind the glove box and under the center counsel for a good sized hub.
I have thinking about that. Do you have any pics of the fused distribution box? I think that would be the best solution for anyone that has many accessories.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 03:35 PM   #18
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I don't have pics, I did all of that while I was prepping the car for world of wheels last year so I didn't have time to do all the picture taking I would have normally.

I need to move the car over this weekend as I have a few things to work on. I'll see if I can grab a few shots While I'm in there.

Painless makes a bunch of items that are very user friendly. The best one for building a seperate accessory panel is this one here: Painless Performance: 7-Circuit Heavy Duty Auxiliary Fuse Block but there is no picture. It looks similar to some of the others they list, except it has a single 6ga that you bring into the car fused, with this breaking everything out to your accessories.

What I did (and it was far more involved because I had to loom my own harness) was fused an 8ga line into the car and used a 10 slot fused distribution block out to the accessories. I'm running all of the following off of it: GT500 dual pump hot, intercooler sprayer main power, purge, window switch, strobes, electric trunk release, line lock, and I'm forgetting one (brain fart), because I have just 2 bays left.

It's on the passenger side behind the glove box. I'll see if I can get a clean shot up in there.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 03:47 PM   #19
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Thanks much for the info! Reps for sure. I was wondering about doing something simlar and wasn't aware painless had these available. Thats the hot ticket for sure.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 03:54 PM   #20
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speaking of batterys and such, does anyone else have a problem with the optima fitment? My red top took awhile to get it fitted well enough. 15 min batt swap took like an hr. Plus adding the remote start and neon wires to it was a headache.
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