[07 STROKER]

how do you break them in..tune wise i mean. Bama wont give ma a tune i can drive with, and I dont want to trailer it to the dyno and strap it down and do wot runs to figure out what tune i need untill its broke in right?? so how the fuck did you guys do the break in period?

[usafimj]

Try getting in touch with Livernois or JDM

[07 STROKER]

what will livernois do for me?

[Mickey]

S your D? They will tell you how to take care of the tune and break in...

[usafimj]

Originally Posted by 07 procharger what will livernois do for me?

Maybe they can give you some advice on what to do since you got the kit from them

[07 STROKER]

oh i see...i dought they can help..i mena i know what i need to do to break it in...i just dont want to wreck anything while driving it befor the dyno tuning...what i need is a break in tune

[qwik48r]

by all means, make sure you dont run a thin sythetic oil!!!!!! you really need a thick conventional.. I have been using Shell RotellaT 15w40 in all my new engines and they seal great in about 500 miles.

it has a way higher concentration of ZDDP... which helps the oil cling to the metal surfaces and promote super high lubricity.

if you dont want to run this, run a 10w30 valvoline or any other name brand conventional + 1 bottle of GM EOS. This is an engine oil supplement that contains HIGH and I mean super HIGH levels of Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates.

by all means whatever tune you run, make damn sure it isnt rich or lean for the first 500 miles!! rich and lean conditions can lead to very poor ring setting.... which is permenant.. after about 800 miles, your rings are sealed as well as they will every be. This rule is ESPECIALLY important with forged pistons as they will swell more with varriations in engine temp. this can lead to very chaotic ring pressures onto the cylinder wall!!! ALWAYS ALWAYS warm up an engine with forged pistons and tight rings before driving even moderatly hard.

just find a way to have a "keep her ass safe" tune for your new motor.. dont worry about power levels till about 800 miles.

Also, when you first start your motor, let it idle for about 30 seconds then bring it up to 1500 repetedly, but gently. do this for about 2 minutes then shutdown. Allow to cool COMPLETELY as this will be your first heat cycle. Do this twice more. Next warm up the car as above, take it onto the road and do a few WOT pulls to around 4500-5000 rpm. And I mean WIDE open throttle.. the idea here is quite simple... a ring will simply seal WAYYYY better if its got high cylinder pressure behind it forcing it into the cylinder wall! baby a new motor and I garautee! it will not make as much power as one that was drivin hard the jump... this is HIGHLY important to ensure the rings set the best they can!!!

change the oil EXCESSIVELY!!! and keep note on COLOR, VISCOSITY and SMELL!!! changing every 100 miles after intial start is what I do. This helps whisk away any metal that COULD be sheering off the cylinder walls, bearings or skirts.

after about 5000 miles, switch to synthetic and have fun!

[Mickey]

i tried to rep you again chris but the thing called me a repping slut and said no

[JakeM]

I have spoken to many engine builders and almost all of them say exactly what qwik just said. Make sure your using a conventional oil that is on the thick side of the scale to break things in. In fact, I still have a PM from Larry_H over on modular fords about the very subject. He suggested 10w30 at least as well. Three out of Five engine builders have also said, don't break it in easy. Break it in how you plan on driving it most. Take it easy on it for only the first couple hundred miles.

[Mickey]

towelly likes the thick sauce

[qwik48r]

as far as tuning goes, the stock ford tune with a little bump in the maf cal will suffice. depending on how aggresive your cam is, I'd recommend a slight bump in timing along the 400-1000 rpm range to around 22-23* to smooth out the idle... and will probably need a bump in the BIAF to around 8.00-9.50. again depending on the cam, I'd go with about 20-23* in the topend from 3600-6500 with a smooth selection. make this adjustment in the .68 to around .80-.90 g/cyl. Also bump your PE to around 1.2-1.3 and turn the enable PE mode down to 0 rpm. This will force the AFR to commanded AF WAY faster than the bullshit tune ford sent you.

You'll need to DL to see exacly what sort of dynamic airflow your actually getting to determine where to add or - timing and where to bump the PE.

and as always, WATCH OUT FOR KR!

if you can send me a few DL of initial startup and drive around, I'll be able to tell you if your going in the right direction.. you should be able to write a safe tune with an X3...

[JakeM]

Originally Posted by Mickey towelly likes the thick sauce

Only if its "Mikey's special home made" !!!

[TheUNZippee!]

Don't worry, Mickey, I repped him for you

[Mickey]

Too bad my name has a c in it...

[JakeM]

Originally Posted by qwik48r as far as tuning goes, the stock ford tune with a little bump in the maf cal will suffice. depending on how aggresive your cam is, I'd recommend a slight bump in timing along the 400-1000 rpm range to around 22-23* to smooth out the idle... and will probably need a bump in the BIAF to around 8.00-9.50. again depending on the cam, I'd go with about 20-23* in the topend from 3600-6500 with a smooth selection. make this adjustment in the .68 to around .80-.90 g/cyl. Also bump your PE to around 1.2-1.3 and turn the enable PE mode down to 0 rpm. This will force the AFR to commanded AF WAY faster than the bullshit tune ford sent you. You'll need to DL to see exacly what sort of dynamic airflow your actually getting to determine where to add or - timing and where to bump the PE. and as always, WATCH OUT FOR KR!

Knock FTL!!! If you are running stock fuel rails and lines you may want to bump fuel pressure by a few pounds as well.

[JakeM]

Originally Posted by TheUNZippee! Don't worry, Mickey, I repped him for you

I did too...

[Mickey]

ive repped everyone in this thread cuz im cool like that

[TheUNZippee!]

rep for all!

[Mickey]

When I tried to rep Zip, it said "hand check", and they preceeded to deny me the rep...weird

[qwik48r]

Originally Posted by Towelly Knock FTL!!! If you are running stock fuel rails and lines you may want to bump fuel pressure by a few pounds as well.

the ECM will bump it automatically depending on the commanded AFR, MAP, load. Enabling PE mode at 0 rpms basically bypass the running "keep the air clean" maf vs. spark caliberation OE's use to pass emissions. It will dump fuel in the second the trigger MAP is seen and that is the instant you hit the gas. You do this because the Narrowband o2's are NOT accurate for anything other than right around stoich (14.6-7).. we all know this isnt exactly nitrous or horespower friendly AFR so, to combat this you enable PE LOOOOOWWW which effectively throw the ECM in OL the second a trigger is noticed (whether is be TPS, RPM, or MAP)