[navyman8903]

someone has inquired.......and it is pending but send me a pm just incase they bag out....It is $500 for the headers/catted x, Mil eliminators(2), o2 extensions and all the hardware. I am getting some pictures up tomorrow. I think I am also getting rid of my 4.10s...... they won't load the turbo properly.

[qwik48r]

wow you put the bling before the speed lol

quick s197 recipe: LONGTUBES, JLT or any 90mm MAF'd intake (you dont need the biggest in the work for a stock internal motor.. bigger WILL kill low end because it will lower intake velocity... ie no bottom end which you need to move a 3600lb snail with a 4.6). Gears! 4.10's for a manual.. 3.73's for an auto.. if you have an auto, might as well get a large stall as well.. something in the 3500-3600 range (Yank makes the best... not listed on the website but I can get you one tooled up because dave is a friend of mine. I ride two yanks an both will shit on any other company. Period.)

LCA's... s197's rear suspension is NOT setup for drag racing.. so to speak.. yes they do have solid axles and strong rear's but a three link is for turning. so LCA's help bring the instant center back quickly and ELIMINATE wheel hope which will shatter your 8.8. UCA isnt as important as LCA's in my opinion on these cars.. I will get flamed for saying this.. but they bear most of the lateral flew due to the location and length (relatively speaking)

a short shifter.. the stock is like trying to beat your best friends dick with a rubber hand. Hurst is a cheap one.. MGW is like the BMW of shortshifters.. I had the hurst.. it worked. Nuff said.

a Tune for all this.. nothing beat a true street or dyno tune with a WB in the pipe.. get your AFR in the right range, lock the timing and you're good to go.. mail orders have come a long way and are a cheap alternative.. but if you want the MOST out of the car, nothing beats having the tuner actually working on the car in person instead of making an educated guess.

X pipes make power because they enable the exhaust to pull its own weight so to speak.. basically one pules hit the other pules, pulls it back and like a siphon pulls the next pulse behind that pulse back too.. which in turn helps all the way at the manifold by pulling fresh mix it.. its called the scavenging effect. no I cant spell.

mufflers.. no flowmasters.. I call them chokemasters.. I have seen cars lose 20+hp to them. any straight through NON baffled muffler will be great. (ie corsa which sounds like a orgasming 18 year old with LT's and an X pipe. stingers, mags, ect.. generally avoid chambers. they are for trucks.)

UD's.. cheap easy horsepower.

NSR cams wake them up too.. but more can be gained with a SMALL shot of nitrous for about the same price and a quarter of the work.. I mean small like a 50 or 75. completely safe and will not need much more than 2* taken out if that... depends on the tuner. but a tune for a 75 wouldnt really have an impact on the n/a abilities so keep that in mind.

above all, for the track! GOOD TIRES! nothing wrong with MT275 or BFs, or MH's or Hoosiers.. they all hook and will fit a stock bullet rim OK.. stay away from Nitto DR's.

that pretty much sums it up.. but to be brief here is an overview.
Longtubes!!! with an X
LCA's
tune/90mm CAI
4.10's/3.73s.. and a GOOD stall for an auto.
UDP's
Tires..

I promise Low 12's/11's.... no way you cant do it unless you can drive.

QWIK

[navyman8903]

+1

He is correct about the lca's are more important that the uca.....it is still helpful though.
But I have a steeda adj panhard bar/hd brace and steeda chrome molly lca's and I have not had a hop since. But Iwill still get the 3rd down the road for fine tuning.

And NSR's are a great, one time install/expense with no other parts needed for a good gain. These cars are all about supporting mods. Everything has to work together.

[mattsimonton]

if you are thinking of adding a power adder later down the line, leave the gearing as is. If not... go 3:73's I say knock out the spacer, the shorties. Do the hood, and quarter panel louvers...