[Rattltrunk]

Just got an alignment but it still feels like it pull slighty to the right, anyway here are the spec.
Let me know if I need camber bolts or something...

Front Left
Camber -1.5
Caster 7.7
Toe 0.05

Front Right
Camber -1.3
Caster 7.6
Toe 0.05

Front
Cross Camber -0.1
Cross Caster 0.2
Total toe 0.09


Just got new tires and I dont want them to wear out on the inner half of the tires like the old ones did.

[Embalmer]

I just had mine alignmed after lowering. Here was the printout I got:

[07stanggt]

and that my freinds is "within factory specs"

[Rattltrunk]

So will mine wear out fast?
If I need those bolts ill buy them becuase these tires can really get pricey...lol.

[Rattltrunk]

Anyone else got any input?

[kraigster]

I do alignments at work and I can tell you that you are really pushing it with the camber. The optimal factory range is 0 deg. to -1.5 for your camber. Your left side is right on the edge of being out of specs. I checked my alignment when it was new and the camber was -1.0 deg., toe was .06 ea. and caster was at 7deg.. Too much negative camber will wear out the inside shoulder of the tires in time but your current setup is good for handling the turns. Incorrect camber and/or toe are the real culprits to wearing out tires prematurely.

[psycho bob]

if you lowered your car using the specs for the stock GT are no longer going to be useful. the shelby gt is lowered with the frpp (i think) springs from the factory so i would suggest telling the place to use those specs if you are going with a 1-1.5 inch drop

[Rattltrunk]

ok so I do need to buy the camber bolts.
If I get the bolts, how close can they get the camber to 0 degrees?

[07stanggt]

Give me a call monday if you like.

[05bluestang]

Originally Posted by psycho bob if you lowered your car using the specs for the stock GT are no longer going to be useful. the shelby gt is lowered with the frpp (i think) springs from the factory so i would suggest telling the place to use those specs if you are going with a 1-1.5 inch drop

+1, tell them to use the Shelby GT (not GT500) specs

[stanglifemike]

You can slot your factory struts for free, or pay the shop to do this. No parts needed to buy and you can set your camber wherever you want it

[Rattltrunk]

slot factory struts?
Can you explain this in more detail...im a noob fool.

[UrbanRedneck]

Originally Posted by psycho bob if you lowered your car using the specs for the stock GT are no longer going to be useful. the shelby gt is lowered with the frpp (i think) springs from the factory so i would suggest telling the place to use those specs if you are going with a 1-1.5 inch drop

No, your car is still a stock GT. I don't know what the difference in the specs may be, but the SHelby GT may be designed for better handling and run more agressive camber or caster than a GT. But having it lowred has no effect on the desired camber angle. Most alignment people don't even enter ride height. 0 degrees camber is zero degrees camber whether it is a lifted truck or a slammed lowrider, it's measured off the wheel. The lowered stance will have an effect on how camber changes through the wheels ark of travel, but there is no alignment for that, a car is alighen how it sits at trim level. Caster is not adjustable, and doesn't usually change from lowering anyway.

To the OP, those numbers don't really indicate a pull. Pulls are caused by a difference in camber or caster from side to side, and yours are close enough that you shouldn't feel anything. Are you sure you don't just feel it following the road crown? I guess you could see a slight coast or drift from the 2 tenths of a degree of difference on camber, but I really doubt it.

That being said, your camber is pretty far negative to the point that you will see agressive tire wear. It may help handling though. Personally, I would reccomend getting some form of adjuster and having it brought closer to ideal. When mike mentions slotting struts, what he means is that they can use a tie drinder to oval out the holes where the upper strut bolt goes through the strut (not the knuckle), this will allow them to force the knuckle to move in or out and then tighten the bolt.

[Rattltrunk]

ima get the bolts and have them do the alignment again, i dont want an aggressive tire wear.
Thanks for the help, and good post urban.