Rear end leaking/slack

ROUSH STAGE II · June 6th, 2009, 08:10 PM

My rear end was leaking (no homo) at the pinion seal, so I removed the driveshaft and I don't have any movement up and down with the pinion, but there is slack rotating it back and forth (forward and reverse). Do you guys think I can just replace the seal and tighten the pinion nut close to the same torque spec to fix it???

silverstang · June 6th, 2009, 08:33 PM

yes your going to have some slack doing that, 99.999999% of vehicles do. You should be fine just changing out the seal and torquing her down.

ROUSH STAGE II · June 6th, 2009, 08:36 PM

I've read in the manual about the pinion nut torque setting trick with an inch pound torque wrench but I don't have access to one at the moment. Do you think it would be doable by "feel"?

9. Using a Nm (lb-in) torque wrench on the pinion
nut, record the torque required to maintain
rotation of the pinion gear through several
revolutions.

ROUSH STAGE II · June 7th, 2009, 02:07 AM

Welded in mid mount mufflers may sound bad ass, but they suck when working under the car... DONE! Thanks for the input Silverstang. I tried to rep you but I have to spread some around first...

silverstang · June 7th, 2009, 02:29 AM

lol what does that mean by "you need to spread some around first"?? why does it tell you that?? Just wondering lol

So you got her done?? I have an inch lb torque wrench but its not the right style. You need the old school wrench that you can constantly monitor torque on, not the "click" type like I have. Let me know if you need any of those special expensive ass tools, I can usually dig them up.

1rnkpny · June 7th, 2009, 03:30 AM

If you mark where the nut sits on the pinion now, make note of how many threads are exposed, remove nut, replace seal, reinstall nut to the exact position with the same amount of threads exposed, you'll be all good. No prob! A man of your caliber, should be a cinch!

1rnkpny · June 7th, 2009, 03:31 AM

Who are you again? lol

ROUSH STAGE II · June 7th, 2009, 05:27 AM

Originally Posted by 1rnkpny

Who are you again? lol

The man with a slight whine on deceleration... but no leaks.

chad05gt · June 7th, 2009, 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by ROUSH STAGE II

The man with a slight whine on deceleration... but no leaks.

Just your ears ringing from the BOV...

07stanggt · June 7th, 2009, 10:42 AM

You ask if it could be done by hand. If you remember what it feels like when you turn the flange before you take it off. Basically you will feel just slight resistence on your rist. Like a slight pull on your wrist. If that makes sense. Better to use a torque wrench I guess but most of the guys i see just do it by hand.

1rnkpny · June 7th, 2009, 01:36 PM

The only thing is that the crush sleeve inside has already been compromised on the pinion. It's possible but make sure you mark it as well then.

NastyFX4 · June 7th, 2009, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by ROUSH STAGE II

Welded in mid mount mufflers may sound bad ass, but they suck when working under the car... DONE! Thanks for the input Silverstang. I tried to rep you but I have to spread some around first...

I agree ... I hit my head on them so many times while pulling the transmission !!

kraigster · June 7th, 2009, 03:23 PM

Definately put a mark on the nut and the pinion. That pinion nut is pretty tight when you take it off. If you have access to one of those cheap ass torque wrenches with the dial, you can loosen the nut and see how much torque is on the nut for reference. If you don't get the pinion nut tight enough, you will have noise on decel.

1rnkpny · June 7th, 2009, 03:28 PM

Originally Posted by kraigster

Definately put a mark on the nut and the pinion. That pinion nut is pretty tight when you take it off. If you have access to one of those cheap ass torque wrenches with the dial, you can loosen the nut and see how much torque is on the nut for reference. If you don't get the pinion nut tight enough, you will have noise on decel.

Loosening breakaway torque can be much higher than tightening torque. The co-oefficient of friction may be different with the metal on metal because of the tightening process.

ROUSH STAGE II · June 7th, 2009, 04:38 PM

Originally Posted by 1rnkpny

Loosening breakaway torque can be much higher than tightening torque. The co-oefficient of friction may be different with the metal on metal because of the tightening process.

After removing the nut I noticed it had threadlocker on it too. It will get me by for a little while since it isn't leaking anymore, but I have a true trac sitting on the shelf awaiting install once I decide which gears I'm going with. I just didn't want the car to be undriveable while I bought my parts and decided which gears would be best...I'll probably swap everything out in about a month or so. Thanks for all the input guys!

June 6th, 2009, 08:10 PM	#1
ROUSH STAGE II Hardcore Enthusiast 2005 Turbonetics Baby!!! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Mauriceville, Texas Posts: 2,218 iTrader: 0 reviews	Rear end leaking/slack My rear end was leaking (no homo) at the pinion seal, so I removed the driveshaft and I don't have any movement up and down with the pinion, but there is slack rotating it back and forth (forward and reverse). Do you guys think I can just replace the seal and tighten the pinion nut close to the same torque spec to fix it??? __________________ Turbonetics baby!!! 11.23@122 mph... Last edited by ROUSH STAGE II; June 6th, 2009 at 08:29 PM.

June 6th, 2009, 08:33 PM	#2
silverstang Hardcore Enthusiast 2007 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: BFE Posts: 2,821 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes your going to have some slack doing that, 99.999999% of vehicles do. You should be fine just changing out the seal and torquing her down. __________________ Bassani Crew Member #3

June 6th, 2009, 08:36 PM	#3
ROUSH STAGE II Hardcore Enthusiast 2005 Turbonetics Baby!!! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Mauriceville, Texas Posts: 2,218 iTrader: 0 reviews	I've read in the manual about the pinion nut torque setting trick with an inch pound torque wrench but I don't have access to one at the moment. Do you think it would be doable by "feel"? 9. Using a Nm (lb-in) torque wrench on the pinion nut, record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion gear through several revolutions. __________________ Turbonetics baby!!! 11.23@122 mph... Last edited by ROUSH STAGE II; June 6th, 2009 at 08:40 PM. Reason: added text

June 7th, 2009, 02:07 AM	#4
ROUSH STAGE II Hardcore Enthusiast 2005 Turbonetics Baby!!! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Mauriceville, Texas Posts: 2,218 iTrader: 0 reviews	Welded in mid mount mufflers may sound bad ass, but they suck when working under the car... DONE! Thanks for the input Silverstang. I tried to rep you but I have to spread some around first... __________________ Turbonetics baby!!! 11.23@122 mph... Last edited by ROUSH STAGE II; June 7th, 2009 at 02:08 AM. Reason: x

June 7th, 2009, 02:29 AM	#5
silverstang Hardcore Enthusiast 2007 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: BFE Posts: 2,821 iTrader: 0 reviews	lol what does that mean by "you need to spread some around first"?? why does it tell you that?? Just wondering lol So you got her done?? I have an inch lb torque wrench but its not the right style. You need the old school wrench that you can constantly monitor torque on, not the "click" type like I have. Let me know if you need any of those special expensive ass tools, I can usually dig them up. __________________ Bassani Crew Member #3

June 7th, 2009, 03:30 AM	#6
1rnkpny Hardcore Enthusiast 2007 G9 Eye Catcher Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 1,900 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you mark where the nut sits on the pinion now, make note of how many threads are exposed, remove nut, replace seal, reinstall nut to the exact position with the same amount of threads exposed, you'll be all good. No prob! A man of your caliber, should be a cinch! __________________

June 7th, 2009, 03:31 AM	#7
1rnkpny Hardcore Enthusiast 2007 G9 Eye Catcher Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 1,900 iTrader: 0 reviews	Who are you again? lol __________________

June 7th, 2009, 10:42 AM	#10
07stanggt I Post Entirely Way Too Much 2007 GT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ellicott City, MD Posts: 11,951 iTrader: 1 reviews	You ask if it could be done by hand. If you remember what it feels like when you turn the flange before you take it off. Basically you will feel just slight resistence on your rist. Like a slight pull on your wrist. If that makes sense. Better to use a torque wrench I guess but most of the guys i see just do it by hand.

June 7th, 2009, 01:36 PM	#11
1rnkpny Hardcore Enthusiast 2007 G9 Eye Catcher Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 1,900 iTrader: 0 reviews	The only thing is that the crush sleeve inside has already been compromised on the pinion. It's possible but make sure you mark it as well then. __________________

June 7th, 2009, 03:23 PM	#13
kraigster Enthusiast 2007 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: St.Petersburg, Fl Posts: 568 iTrader: 0 reviews	Definately put a mark on the nut and the pinion. That pinion nut is pretty tight when you take it off. If you have access to one of those cheap ass torque wrenches with the dial, you can loosen the nut and see how much torque is on the nut for reference. If you don't get the pinion nut tight enough, you will have noise on decel. __________________ Saleen rear fascia with center exhaust, MAC longtubes with o/r Prochamber, Steeda CAI w/carbon fiber elbow, SCT X3, Steeda UDPs, Hurst shifter, modified delete plates, Comp Cams and 4.10s.

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