Stroked kit on Ebay
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Old November 3rd, 2009, 11:56 PM   #1
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Stroked kit on Ebay


What sort of "deal" is this compared to what it might cost retail? Are they good parts?

Ford 4.6 Mustang 302 Supercharger Engine Upgrade Kit B:eBay Motors (item 360202379952 end time Nov-04-09 08:04:47 PST)

Also..from what I have researched on the web a spec stage 3+ clutch is around $400-500 for the s197s and here is a new one for $270.

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Old November 3rd, 2009, 11:57 PM   #2
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From looking at the vendor...they bought out Saleen's old parts.
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Old November 4th, 2009, 01:58 AM   #3
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i think most strokers run about 2k
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Old November 4th, 2009, 02:00 AM   #4
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The one major issue that I would consider is if those pistons are going to fit your engine. You don't know until you tear your engine apart if you can get away with just a good honing or if you are going to have to do a little boring of the cylinders. With that said, if you bore it 20 over then you will not have the right size pistons. Now if you are going to buy a brand new block then you won't have to worry about that. AND if you are going with a new block you should just get a short block with the bottom end all put together for you.
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Old November 4th, 2009, 08:03 AM   #5
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I believe thats the same kit that another memeber on here bought. Looks like a good deal to me, and hopefully your block is still good.
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Old November 4th, 2009, 04:29 PM   #6
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With a 302 kit you will definately have to bore the piston walls. The most you can go with simple honing would be a 298 kit I believe.
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Old November 4th, 2009, 10:52 PM   #7
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I bought one of those kits about 1.5 months ago. Its a great product. I ended up selling it due to military orders. Wish I could have kept it. Only issue you'll have is bore diameter. Stock is 3.552. Hopefully your block is still fairly new and you can still use your stock block
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Old November 4th, 2009, 11:27 PM   #8
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block has 22k miles on it but you never know until you get into the guts of her. I'd hate to spend the cash only to find out my cylinder walls need bored.

Hmmm...
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Old November 5th, 2009, 09:18 AM   #9
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3.551" is the diameter on those pistons., and they are designed for a bore diameter on your block of 3.554" per the spec sheet on Ebay.

Stock cylinder bore is 3.550 inches (90.2 MM), and stock piston diameters vary based on the "grade" used...and it looks like Ford uses 3 different "grade pistons" but the diameters are the following (all uncoated):

Grade 1 3.5504-3.5499 in
Grade 2 3.551-3.5503 in
Grade 3 3.5515-3.551 in

So, it looks like they allow for a cylinder "cleanup" of .003" to .004".

I am NOT a machinist, but I know that normally when you bore an engine, it is one of the three over-bores:

.010
.020
.030

What I am saying is it looks like those pitons are designed for "stock blocks" with no over-boring. They gain the 302 inch displacement through the piston design and the rods, and maybe the crank...in other words, the "stroke", but not the cylinder bore.

Hope that helps.
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Old November 5th, 2009, 01:27 PM   #10
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Good info Shane!!
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Old November 16th, 2009, 09:33 PM   #11
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Thanks diMora. That's what I was looking for. It sounds like a risky purchase. I might be better suited with a kit that's designed for overboring .030.
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Old November 16th, 2009, 09:56 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ethrjock View Post
Thanks diMora. That's what I was looking for. It sounds like a risky purchase. I might be better suited with a kit that's designed for overboring .030.
Ask the vendor if you need to bore the block out. I agree with DiMora I can't see why you would need to bore the block. The3.554 bore by 3.80 storke is 301.5681~ Cu In

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Old November 17th, 2009, 04:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
3.551" is the diameter on those pistons., and they are designed for a bore diameter on your block of 3.554" per the spec sheet on Ebay.

Stock cylinder bore is 3.550 inches (90.2 MM), and stock piston diameters vary based on the "grade" used...and it looks like Ford uses 3 different "grade pistons" but the diameters are the following (all uncoated):

Grade 1 3.5504-3.5499 in
Grade 2 3.551-3.5503 in
Grade 3 3.5515-3.551 in

So, it looks like they allow for a cylinder "cleanup" of .003" to .004".

I am NOT a machinist, but I know that normally when you bore an engine, it is one of the three over-bores:

.010
.020
.030

What I am saying is it looks like those pitons are designed for "stock blocks" with no over-boring. They gain the 302 inch displacement through the piston design and the rods, and maybe the crank...in other words, the "stroke", but not the cylinder bore.

Hope that helps.
hmmm,,.....interesting. I actually am liking the sound of this kit. How does the piston make up for not boring? Dish type to create more room? Please explain.
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Old November 17th, 2009, 04:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 05roush0090 View Post
hmmm,,.....interesting. I actually am liking the sound of this kit. How does the piston make up for not boring? Dish type to create more room? Please explain.
The pistons are .004 oversize so you shouldn't need to do anything but a honning for the pistons to fit the block. The pistons are dished to lower compression for a blower application.
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Old November 17th, 2009, 05:51 PM   #15
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I was about to buy it, lol. Sale ended on the 4th.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jonnieguns View Post
I was about to buy it, lol. Sale ended on the 4th.
ive seen those alot be4, just keep ur eyes open and ull find another
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Old November 18th, 2009, 03:38 PM   #17
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There's a similar high compression kit advertised as well. Would it be inadvisable to install that kit, and then swap in pistons with more of a dish (for lower compression) when it comes time to go forced induction? Would there be any problems with the new pistons not being set/matched to each cylinder?
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Old November 18th, 2009, 03:55 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jonnieguns View Post
There's a similar high compression kit advertised as well. Would it be inadvisable to install that kit, and then swap in pistons with more of a dish (for lower compression) when it comes time to go forced induction? Would there be any problems with the new pistons not being set/matched to each cylinder?
That would be a waste of time...you would have to pull the whole engine again to do that.

The pistons, connecting rods, wrist pins, and crank are all balanced together as a "rotating assembly".

The pistons, wrist pins, and connecting rods are "balanced" by removing material until they all match one another within the desired tolerance. Therefore, each piston / rod / wrist pin is a "matched set".

The crank is then fitted with "bob weights" that are equal to the weight of the 8 piston/wrist pin/connecting rod combos...and then the crank is balanced.

By disassembling and changing pistons, you throw this off - unless you weight match the NEW pistons so that they are equal in their relationship in the same ratio that the original pistons were.

The bottom line is that it is easiest to pick what you want and do it right (and once) the first time.

If you are going to go forced induction (and I don't know why you would not on these cars with their small displacement engine) then just get the correct low comp pistons from the get-go and call it good.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 04:00 PM   #19
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Makes sense, thanks for the insight.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 04:51 PM   #20
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Just something to add to the conversation... If you're going to be running a 'normal' amount of boost like 8-13 lbs than there is ZERO issue with running a stock or slightly higher compression ratio. I believe our stock motors are 9.8:1. If you're planning on running a lot of boost than it's probably not a bad idea to get the lower compression pistons.
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