[cale2006]

Originally Posted by Towelly NSR's are a waist SPR XFI's for the win.

+1, you want to go more extreme, get the better cams, spend the extra cash flow on springs, increase you HP and your RPM range.

more bang for you buck

[Herrmann "T"]

Casey I have a 5 speed if I was to upgrade the heads and cams what would the best set up be for our V8's??

Thanks again MOD Maniacs Herrmann T

[usafimj]

Lots of people like to go with Livernois stage II heads. All depends on how much you want to spend and who your comfortable with. Some shops require you send in your heads to be worked on, some shops do a 1-1 swap, and others let you keep your stock heads. As for cams you have all kinds of options but it comes down to what you like

Heads you can go with Fox Lake, BBR, JDM, Livernois or maybe even with a local shop

[Herrmann "T"]

I will check it out USAF one MOD I did and it smoothed the throttle out and keeps the contaminants out was the drivers side catch can UPR I used SS braided hose now I run the JLT CAI and made a off set bracket because the can was rubbing the valve cover this is were UPR showed the intall and U can not even back off the bottom to emty the can so I widdled the factory shrink tube and used the factory fitting going into the Intake manifold the bracket is installed to the back side of the heat shield. Soon as I can figure out to down load and post it I 'm still a NEWBIE.

[Herrmann "T"]

So I went with the BBK UDP's and no were in the directions did it address
the Alternator bolt.Yes NUTCASE u will have to shorten the stud. What I decided in case the ALT ever has tobe replaced was STEP#1 mark the factory position#2back off the nut just enough to back out the stud#3 remove stud#4move nut below mark add lock tight#5reposition the nut to factory position let dry.
#6cut stud off even with top of the nut given it a traditional bolt form
#7place in vise, nut to inside stud outward the washer lip will act as a brace
#8using a prick punch lightly strike nut centering the start point
#9 start piliot hole with 1/16 bit the nut will be at angle do to position in vise
TAKE CARE WHEN DRILLING DO TO TRANSITION FROM THE NUT TO STUD!!
and drill only 3/4 of the way through.
#10 using 5/64 bit to graduate the hole then a 3/32 bit and clear all shavings.
#11 using a 3/32 X 3/4 spring pin and a dabb of lock tight remove bolt and set pin using a 8oz hammer ensure u use a flat hard surface the back of a traditional bench vise has a flat area and this worked fine let dry.
#12 cut off excess spring pin de-burr any area of your new factory spec bolt
and this will esure not to harm any of the Aluminium threads or componets you can remove if Alternator or other engine work warrents it's removal
FYI Steeda provides this bolt with it's kit!! Total time 15 minutes time to come of with this Bolt Mod Stared at it for a long time???
Outside of this the BBK UDP'S look Great perform well and compliment the Metco 4pc Idler Pulley set!

Thanks to all of the MOD Maniacs that chimed in U made this Mod easy!

Herrmann T Second Generation American Combat Arms By Choice Defending
America Since 1989 and still going!

[07 STROKER]

Originally Posted by Towelly NSR's are a waist SPR XFI's for the win.

Corn bred mule!

I have to hate you now with that statement.

[NUTCASE]

Originally Posted by Herrmann "T" Total time 15 minutes time to come of with this Bolt Mod Stared at it for a long time???

I just cursed for about 5 minutes and then went buck nuts with a mini hacksaw for about another 5 ;-)

if the burr ever gets in the way of me removing anything I have a tap and dye kit I can throw on there. but until then, I just don't care

[IHVOCD]

Originally Posted by usafimj Stick with Steeda udp's

What he said!

[dragrace4fun]

My .02, I am running some MotoBlue UDPs (3 pc set that replaced balancer (SFI approved), water pump pulley, and pulley near idler arm (for looks, I suppose)) and no problems yet. Barely notice a change in power, but ever bit counts, I guess. The torque thing is because the bolt is a torque-to-yield style, so it stretches a little and is one-time use. I actually reused mine temporarily since I didn't have the bolt and didn't know prior. I ran it for about two weeks until I could install the new one. The key on the balancer takes all the stress, anyway. I found the part number and ordered Ford Parts Direct online...was only about $7 or so.

Edit - If you reuse the bolt, take it easy on the engine to prevent any accidental overstressing of the bolt...just in case it won't hold. I won't test the probability, but you get the idea...get a new bolt!

[Casey4s]

I replaced my bolt as well as specified by Ford.

The Ford part number for the crank bolt is F5RZ-6A34Q-B

[EvlS197]

Quick question on the UDP, I know steeda's say it will drop 25% of things like your lights and stuff, has anyone noticed a difference or anything they dont like? I was thinking about getting the UDP but wasnt sure how much of a difference it made, thanks for the help

[Casey4s]

Originally Posted by EvlS197 Quick question on the UDP, I know steeda's say it will drop 25% of things like your lights and stuff, has anyone noticed a difference or anything they dont like? I was thinking about getting the UDP but wasnt sure how much of a difference it made, thanks for the help

I haven't noticed any electrical deficiencis since my install several months ago. My battery is the original from July of 2005 and starts my car on the coldest of days no problem.

[EvlS197]

ok thats what i was wondering, because the pulley reduces the accesssorie speed by 25%, if there was any change in how cold/hard the ac blew, or lights getting dimmer?

[07 STROKER]

Well, the AC completly quits working and the heater only comes on when its hot out. As for the headlights they only dim when its dark out so you should be fine with them.

[08mustang_gt]

Originally Posted by EvlS197 ok thats what i was wondering, because the pulley reduces the accesssorie speed by 25%, if there was any change in how cold/hard the ac blew, or lights getting dimmer?

I haven't got UDPs on my stang yet. But on my '02 SVT Focus I had Steedas kit and I know it hurt my inside lights, because I could tell by my reverse glow gauges the blue were dimmed. As well as my speaker system (no big sub or anything, just my 4 inner speakers and the two tweeters were a bit quieter than usual).

I don't think it'll hurt anything necessarily, but it will slow them down like I said.

[highwayman24]

Originally Posted by 07 STROKER Well, the AC completly quits working and the heater only comes on when its hot out. As for the headlights they only dim when its dark out so you should be fine with them.

[DiMora]

Originally Posted by EvlS197 Quick question on the UDP, I know steeda's say it will drop 25% of things like your lights and stuff, has anyone noticed a difference or anything they dont like? I was thinking about getting the UDP but wasnt sure how much of a difference it made, thanks for the help

When I had them, I did notice the A/C was less effective at idle and when stuck in traffic (I live in Atlanta, GA) on really hot days.

I have a shaker 1000 and I had no problems running it and the headlights / wipers at the same time, but you could tell it was lower on juice (interior lights more dim at idle).

Would I run them if N/A? I suppose so, every little bit counts when N/A.

I would stick with Steeda which are proven and Plug-N-Play.

[07 Boss]

Could you compensate for the slower cranking alternator with a Higher output alternator?

[NUTCASE]

with my bbk's I have experienced 0 drawbacks on the electrical, ac, or power steering.

that being said I am still on the stock sound system, however whenever I put udp's on any car the first thing I do to test is turn on all the lights and acessories at low idle to seeif it takes it and mine did.