Alternator or Battery Problem - 2005 Mustang GT - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 12 Old November 25th, 2009, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Alternator or Battery Problem - 2005 Mustang GT

Hey everyone, I'm not sure if this is the right place for this type of question so sorry in advance!

2005 Mustang GT, 100% stock

Okay so last weekend my engine light came on and as I was driving to Pepboys by engine died. They said it was the alternator and that the battery was fine and just needed to be charged while I was driving. So Basically all they did was replace the alternator. About 8 hours later as I am heading out the battery light turns on and in the LED display it says "Check charging system". The battery meter looks about right (About 60% full like usual). My drive is about 30 minutes, and within that 30 minutes the battery light and LED warning turn on and off every 5 minutes. So I take it to Pepboys they test the battery and said it's fine and that I just need to drive it to charge the battery. For the next few days I drive it about 200 miles over a 4-5 hour span. The Battery light and "Check Charging System" warning now turns on about 1 minute after I turn on the car and stays on until I turn it off. The battery meter looks fine as well. I also read somewhere that it could be the wrong alternator that was put in and the on-board computer isn't recognizing it, could that be the problem? Like I said I went to Pepboys and I would assume a big company like that knows what they are doing. The car runs perfectly fine except for those warnings but I am afraid it will die on me again. Any reason why this is happening?

Thanks in advance guys!
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post #2 of 12 Old November 29th, 2009, 05:47 PM
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Hi Cdalton I'm just running thru the same exact problem. These stangs tend to have this problem with the alternator. Ford installed a weak one on these. I ordered my alternator thru www.paperformance.com. They have a higher performance alternator that is better than the stock one and more economical with lifetime warranty. I am actualy waiting on a 4 gage wire to install everything from american muscle. Good luck with you situation. I'll let you know how mine goes. I'm installing mine on Dec 1st. I will provbably need to get a new battery as well to keep everything fresh and with a good start. Will keep you posted. Oh, and welcome to the forum!!! and yes you posted on the wrong section even thou it's general tech. You should go to the 05 section.

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post #3 of 12 Old November 29th, 2009, 08:19 PM
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sounds like a loose connection check all the wiring on the alt

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post #4 of 12 Old November 29th, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Normally it is the regulator that controls the operation of the Battery light. Do you have any corrosion/rust around the battery terminals or the battery ground on the body?

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post #5 of 12 Old November 30th, 2009, 02:37 PM
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I know this is probably off in left field, but I've been dealing with similiar issues here with other Mustang owners. Fortunately I saved a lot of money as other people dealt with it before I had to. If you have an aftermarket radio in the car, but not amps or anything else there is a wiring issue. The factory amp uses a 5volt trigger to turn on. A lot of people in this situation notice the annoying amp pop when you first start the car. The problem is that most harness adapters wire the amps to be on all the time, which leads to dead batteries and what a lot of people would think were bad alternators. I only saw in two cases that the car actually picked up an error could related to this problem. It's really a simple fix of rewiring the ground and power lines of the amps, while adding in a very cheap resistor inline with the power wire. Eliminates the charging issue and amp pop problem. Like I said, I'm probably off target here, but something to consider or might help someone else.



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post #6 of 12 Old November 30th, 2009, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangmallory View Post
The problem is that most harness adapters wire the amps to be on all the time, which leads to dead batteries and what a lot of people would think were bad alternators.
An alternator wouldn't test bad because an amp is turned on. I have seen an alternator test low beacause of a bad battery. Modern AVR testers use the high beams and heater fans as loads to check the alternators capabilities. If people replace alternators because they THINK they're bad, then I guess their perogative. But hey, stranger things have happened with electrical issues.

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post #7 of 12 Old May 4th, 2014, 04:19 AM
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HELP: I noted the comment about popping sound amps, and about a year ago, had Best Buy Mobile rewire, as they said, to somewhere in the dashboard. They didn't have the amps 'hot' or on all the time, as far as I know. I don't think they used any resistor or relay. What I do know is the car began having weird electrical behavior (I actually had a stall and had to take off a battery protector shut off device). I think the check charging system light came on starting a few days later. I have had batteries and charge system checked by 3 shops, they all say there's nothing wrong they can find! I called Best Buy corporate to complain about the installer (head unit), and he put in a fuse link, to unhook the radio. I tried that, but the charging warning came on the next day!
It's frustrating, b/c I'll have to sell the car eventually. Anyone got any advice I can give to another Best Buy shop nearby, b/c I need to get something done!
btw, miine is GT convertible, only mod is the Pioneer 9400 head unit, and sequential tail lights.
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post #8 of 12 Old May 4th, 2014, 09:13 AM
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are you using a pulley or a clutch pulley?
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post #9 of 12 Old May 4th, 2014, 03:45 PM
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I recently went through the same thing. So I found that the alternator in these cars work intermittenty. I had mine checked and everything was fine, however I knew it was not, because 5 minutes earlier all different lights were going crazy and gauges shut down. As long as all your connections are good, you know it should be the alternator, however if your car is dying that means your battery is dead too. Never just put a new alternator on a car with a dead battery , this will lead to over-straining the alt and killing it prematurely. Ensure all connections are correct and wiring is in good health. Then fully charge battery and/ or replace it if it is old and won't hold a charge. Then replace the alternator and you should be good.
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post #10 of 12 Old May 4th, 2014, 06:45 PM
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one thing to keep in mind is our s197's active alarm stays on all the time while the car is parked/ sitting. This causes a drain on the battery when car is not being used/driven.If it's a daily driver not so bad ,since the alt charges battery while going down the road, But if your sits in a garage weeks at a time, the problem will be there, i keep a float charge on my battery when car is in the garage. just something to think about.

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post #11 of 12 Old May 5th, 2014, 02:38 AM
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i feel like pepboys was your first mistake. most pepboys i have ever been to seem to only employ high school ricer type kids that dont actually know anything. it doesnt take much to enter things in a computer and have it give a part number for them to grab off a shelf. i feel like it wasnt your alt to begin with since it was your check engine light that came on before it died.
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post #12 of 12 Old May 5th, 2014, 10:50 AM
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How did they test the alternator. A simple voltage meter will not reveal the problem. It needs to be tested on an oscilloscope. There is a TSB out there somewhere on this
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