[UrbanRedneck]

Which is better, and why? Is that question even possible to answer? Who here actually HAS an axle exchange shaft? To me, it look nicer/higher quality than the spydershaft, but that doesn't mean shit. The big point that stands out is that they mention hammering the pinch seems in the driveshaft tunnel flat for clearance. I do not like that idea. Spydershaft does not mention that at all.. So my most important question is, did anyone here, with either shaft, have to make changes to the car like that?

I know of one person that had a spydershaft that had to be rebalanced. Is that commonplace, ie: has anyone else had to have one rebalanced?

Thanks.

[pear0119]

I have the spydershaft, there is a vibration in the driveline above 80MPH ever since the Spydershaft was installed. This summer I am going to take it in to get re-balanced and hopefully solve that vibration issue.

Other then that I love it and have no other issues.

[usafimj]

I've read good things about both. Go with what makes you comfortable

[Jucostud]

Yes, spyder shafts need to be rebalanced. Make sure u figure that into the money when buying one. I personally would go with the steeda.

[UrbanRedneck]

That's retarded. I guess the company that makes them must have a shitty balancer or something.

The steeda shaft is axle exchange, IIRC. Does anyone have that one? I like that one best, but I do not want to modify the driveshaft tunnel.

[NastyFX4]

Correct, Steeda is Axle Exchange. The Spydershafts are just Ford Ranger driveshafts that are modified and probably why there are balance issues. I guess anyways.

[07 Boss]

I believe the Spyder shaft is tapered to avoid any clearance issues.

[NastyFX4]

Good sales pitch.

The Axle Exchange Driveshafts - Custom Seamless DOM Steel and 6061T6 Aluminum USA Made. KYB, Exedy, Centric Parts, Maval, Spicer, Daiken, Valeo, LuK, Neapco

[bamagt]

I has a Coast and I has zero vibs to 110 mph. Haven't gone faster than that since install.

Coast Driveline & Gear

[07 Boss]

Originally Posted by NastyStang113 Good sales pitch. The Axle Exchange Driveshafts - Custom Seamless DOM Steel and 6061T6 Aluminum USA Made. KYB, Exedy, Centric Parts, Maval, Spicer, Daiken, Valeo, LuK, Neapco

Yeah, nice testimonial by Jim from JDM. Sold me, too bad I already have a Powerhouse one.

[UrbanRedneck]

Don't coast and powerhouse both use adapter plates? No thanks for me...

But now the axle exchange shaft deff. looks better. But again, does anyone here actually HAVE one? And know whether or not there was really modification needed to the driveshaft tunnel?

[dysan]

No adapter plate with the powerhouse, it's a new pinion flange. Powerhouse uses the axle exchange.

[UrbanRedneck]

Well I have been searching on a few forums, and I see a LOT of people saying that the Axle Exchange shaft is a great piece, but I have yet to find a single person that actually HAS one. I'd really like to hear from someone with firsthand experience. All I can tell is that it is the nicest looking one lol. But, I want to know exactly what they are talking about in terms of flattening seams in the tunnel (haven't been under the car in a while. Anyone have pics of what they are talking about), and if I will have to do it with my suspension. I have no problem relocating a parking brake bracket though. But I really want to know if I will run into any sort of clearance issues or anything, because the last thing I need is another mod that will send me up a fucking wall chasing down issues. Also, will I have any issues using a BMR front driveshaft loop with it? What do they mean when they say it is tapered. From what I can tell, it just necks down a few inches before the slip joint at the trans side. I would think tapering would mean the entire shaft gets gradually smaller to one side, which would be nearly impossible to machine. Are they just talking about that necking down?

In my searching, I am seeing a LOT of people that are very happy with the shaftmasters unit. Apparantly it is available with a new flange or an adapter. I see mention of 4 inch and 3.5 inch, but only see the 3.5 on their site. Quality looks good, and like I said a lot of people like them. Looks like clearance issues would be nonexistant with a 3.5 inch shaft too. As far as that goes though, what is the downside to a 3.5? I know that the benefit is clearance, but I would imagine there is a benefit to a 4 inch too (otherwise noone would make them). So who here has a Shaftmasters, and what is the general opinion of their part around here?

Sorry for the long post. I am getting real close to time to buy one though (wanna throw it on before I take the car out this spring) and wanna make sure I get the best product that won't give me any problems.

[07 Boss]

Redneck, I have a Powerhouse one which I guess, as someone mentioned, is an Axle Exchange one. Mine has an adaptor plate though. I can tell you that it is a nice piece. As far as your questions, I believe the spyder one tapers from 4" to 3.5" at the rear to avoid any rubbing/clearance issues, but don't quote me on that. As far as the difference between a 4' and 3.5" is obviously you will get better clearance with the smaller shaft. Two issues that I see with a smaller shaft is that one, it will not be as strong, but I don't see strength ever being an issue with any of these aftermarket shafts. And two, a smaller diameter shaft will be slightly more suceptable to vibration in that it will have less resistance to the type of rubber band vibration that we sometimes see with aftermarket shafts, but a well balanced shaft shouldn't vibrate regardless of diameter.

[UrbanRedneck]

I can't imagine that the powerhouse shaft would be made by axle exchange, as they mention on their site how a new flange is one of the big benefits to their shaft...

Does yours look similar to theirs? Regardless though, if it is a 4 inch shaft, your prokit is about the same drop as my BMR springs, so have you had any clearance issues at all?

Thanks for the help bossman.

[navyman8903]

I have never had a single problem with my spyder shaft. It was my 3rd mod, and I have had the damn thing in 2 cars over coming up on 4 years, I have never heard or felt any of these stupid problems I keep hearing about, The only vibrations in my car ar from one of 2 things, Me fucking, or jumping up and down after beating someone.

If you instal it correctly they are pretty rape. I have done the instal myself in, out, and in again. And I didn't fuck it up Idk how everyone else is. But maybe I just pay attention.

And yes the spider shaft is perfect if you are lowering your car. And they weigh 16.5 pounds and are being run on 9 second GT 500's. But they suck I guess.

this should help with instal questions

YouTube- Aluminum Drive Shaft & Short Shifter Installation

YouTube- Aluminum Drive Shaft & Short Shifter Installation

[navyman8903]

YouTube - Leonard Racing launch

YouTube - Leonard Racing launch

Look at this GT 500 hook. And it is a jpc car.....wierd.

YouTube - GT500 Whipple 3.4 9sec run

YouTube - GT500 Whipple 3.4 9sec run

YouTube - HotRodHarrys 10 second 2007 Mustang Saleen Supercharged Automatic

YouTube - HotRodHarrys 10 second 2007 Mustang Saleen Supercharged Automatic

YouTube- MikeysGT at Famoso Raceway beats street bike

YouTube- MikeysGT at Famoso Raceway beats street bike

If you open the links for these cars you will see they run spydershafts. Just fyi.

[navyman8903]

Originally Posted by 07 Boss Redneck, I have a Powerhouse one which I guess, as someone mentioned, is an Axle Exchange one. Mine has an adaptor plate though. I can tell you that it is a nice piece. As far as your questions, I believe the spyder one tapers from 4" to 3.5" at the rear to avoid any rubbing/clearance issues, but don't quote me on that. As far as the difference between a 4' and 3.5" is obviously you will get better clearance with the smaller shaft. Two issues that I see with a smaller shaft is that one, it will not be as strong, but I don't see strength ever being an issue with any of these aftermarket shafts. And two, a smaller diameter shaft will be slightly more suceptable to vibration in that it will have less resistance to the type of rubber band vibration that we sometimes see with aftermarket shafts, but a well balanced shaft shouldn't vibrate regardless of diameter.

exactly correct.

[Emay]

Leonard wasn't balancing at all (from his own mouth) for a short bit right before selling out.

I have first hand experience with 5 unbalanced and severely vibrating spydershafts from about that time frame which was the reason I engaged him.

My whole questioning of things came about as I had installed mine and 4 others in about a 2 month window and none had wieghts. Then Glenn's (Heavy gt's) shows up and it's counter balanced.

If anyone recalls, I absolutely desinigrated my tail shaft to my trans and had a massive vibration happen in a 500 rpm window from 5700-6200 when it finally let go with a sever shudder. Turns out my spydershaft required balance. Suburban D-line put in nearly a 1/4 ounce.

Bottom line is I now check for balance weights and have anyone that brings one for install without them, drop it by d-line before I install.

So Navy - it's not some anomoly, there was a lack of quality control for a bit there. I saw it and I wasn't placing those orders, those were people getting their parts themselves and asking me to do the installs.

Urban, I've had zero experience with AE shafts, I can say - and you have seen, the spyder takes a good beating. Just need to make sure it's in spec. I know you have been to Suburban for other items, so it shouldn't be too big a deal to have it checked real quick..

[Stubs]

I ordered my A/E shaft from Steeda and just got it delivered over the weekend. When I was researching which shaft to go with, someone had said to factor in money to have it balanced if you buy a spydershaft. This is what convinced me to go somewhere else, why should I have to get a new shaft balanced. Anyway, I am going to wait for spring break in three weeks to put that shaft in, so after that I will come back here and let everyone know how it works out.