[ReverendDexter]

I agree, they do seem contradictory, that's part of the joy of suspension.

Think of it as a parabolic curve - increasing stiffness will increase grip up to a certain point, after which you're losing grip. There's an "ideal" rate, but it's going to change based on a lot of factors, at least one of which is subjective (ride quality).

For the S197, SFCs are superfluous. The chassis of your car is considerably stiffer than a fox-platformed car ('79-'04). Adjustable LCAs are also superfluous on S197s - the adjustment is length, which isn't very helpful. I'd just go with static length, and put the extra money into the bushing type. Other than that, the only thing I see missing from your list is CC plates, though admittedly I'd start with shocks/tires before moving on to mods.

[101fng]

so you're gonna drop it and not get UCA? what about you're pinion angle?

[2006GTARPD3]

Originally Posted by v606er To me, these seem contradictory, but I do not know that much about suspensions. This summer I am looking to lower it (so no need for sway bar), and this is the list I have saved in a Word document. Adjustable panhard bar J&M extreme adj. lca Do not need UCA Steeda control arm relocation bracket eibach pro kit lowering springs subframe connectors I like straight lines and turns, and I don't want to sacrifice either one to get a gain in the other. Will I be improving traction and control equally all around with this list? The SFC's were kinda thrown in last minute b/c it has been really hard to find them, and I wasn't sure if I really needed them. Opinions?

Your gonna need it for that insane amt of HP ur pushing through your vert

[v606er]

Originally Posted by 2006GTARPD3 Your gonna need it for that insane amt of HP ur pushing through your vert

Woah there. I might have a GT40 engine swap in the works. You don't know for sure.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by v606er Woah there. I might have a GT40 engine swap in the works. You don't know for sure.

GT40? Are you going 289 or 427?

[v606er]

Originally Posted by 101fng so you're gonna drop it and not get UCA? what about you're pinion angle?

I was told that with an inch drop, you don't need the adjustable UCA, and they really don't do much anyway, and that the adj. LCA's would be able to adjust the pinion enough, and so would the adj. panhard. Was I informed incorrectly?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by v606er I was told that with an inch drop, you don't need the adjustable UCA, and they really don't do much anyway, and that the adj. LCA's would be able to adjust the pinion enough, and so would the adj. panhard. Was I informed incorrectly?

Why would you want to adjust two LCAs to do something you can do by adjusting a single UCA?

[v606er]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter I agree, they do seem contradictory, that's part of the joy of suspension. Think of it as a parabolic curve - increasing stiffness will increase grip up to a certain point, after which you're losing grip. There's an "ideal" rate, but it's going to change based on a lot of factors, at least one of which is subjective (ride quality). For the S197, SFCs are superfluous. The chassis of your car is considerably stiffer than a fox-platformed car ('79-'04). Adjustable LCAs are also superfluous on S197s - the adjustment is length, which isn't very helpful. I'd just go with static length, and put the extra money into the bushing type. Other than that, the only thing I see missing from your list is CC plates, though admittedly I'd start with shocks/tires before moving on to mods.

For the CC plates, I was told the camber bolts would adjust it enough because the caster isn't really effected. BMR Fabrication Inc. most of the way down the page are the bolts.

Edit: This question was answered by using an adj. UCA and the fixed LCA's. Without adj LCA's, how do I adjust the pinion angle of the lowered ride?

[v606er]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter GT40? Are you going 289 or 427?

I was joking. He was just being mean about my v6.

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Why would you want to adjust two LCAs to do something you can do by adjusting a single UCA?

I was informed incorrectly. This does make sense. Just get LCA's, then the adj. UCA. This answers my above question of how to correct pinion angle.

Do you agree that I need the adj. panhard as well?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by v606er For the CC plates, I was told the camber bolts would adjust it enough because the caster isn't really effected.

Ugh. Crash bolts might get you to factory spec, but CC plates will allow you to get a legit performance alignment. I guess it depends on how serious you are about your suspension.

Originally Posted by v606er Do you agree that I need the adj. panhard as well?

Yeah. When you change the ride height, you're going to change where the differential sits. The adjustable panhard bar will allow you to recenter it, rather than having it kicked off a little bit to the side.

[v606er]

There seem to be so many varying opinions on what is important for suspension work.


Rev, how does this list look now?

non adj. LCA's
adj. UCA
eibach prokit lowering springs
adj panhard bar
CC plates

[EscortSportage]

Originally Posted by 101fng i don't think i've seen rear shock tower braces. even if there was one, i'm not sure how you'd install that.

i have one on my fox mustang

[EscortSportage]

ok lets think about this, if the car as a whole is sliding u need better tires, if u think and or feel the body is sliding but the tires arnt, u need a panhard bar to stop the lateral movement from the rear end (side to side movement) even with control arms u still will get up to 2inchs of play lateral movement. The sway bar is gonna tighten up body roll, not sliding, if u had crap tires with the best sway bar ud still slide but ur car would do it with no body roll.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by v606er There seem to be so many varying opinions on what is important for suspension work.

There's a lot of varying goals.

Originally Posted by v606er Rev, how does this list look now? non adj. LCA's adj. UCA eibach prokit lowering springs adj panhard bar CC plates

Looks like a good start, what shocks are you gonna run with that?

[v606er]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter There's a lot of varying goals. Looks like a good start, what shocks are you gonna run with that?

I was just going to keep the stock shocks. That list will probably run me about 600(+-100).


2005-2009 Ford Mustang Shocks, Mustang Struts at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Especially because these shocks (except for the first two Tokico's) are pretty expensive.

[v606er]

Well the description and user reviews do sound really good for these shocks. Maybe I will have to work overtime and get them.

[07 Boss]

Originally Posted by v606er There seem to be so many varying opinions on what is important for suspension work. Rev, how does this list look now? non adj. LCA's adj. UCA eibach prokit lowering springs adj panhard bar CC plates

Sorry I had to drop out of this conversation earlier today, but the good Reverend seems to have done a good job in my absence. That's a good list to start with. I started off with pretty much that list except i went with camber bolts. Actually there not even in. I kind of like have a bit of camber up front. Not the best things for my tires but she is pretty responsive when I tug at the wheel. Anyways, like I said earlier if the rear feels sloppy with a lot of body roll vs. the rear of the car kicking out (loose), stiffening the sway bar back there will help. But like the Reverend said, you have to find a balance. With my STB, Pro-Kit springs, and couple degrees of camber, makes my car push, understeer, more than it already did. But now I've lowered the LCA's and stiffened up the rear sway bar to a point where I have less body roll and makes it easier to kick out the rear of the car, oversteer. Why? Because I would rather drive a car with a bit of oversteer than one that pushes into a corner.
And I agree that you should do a little track time. Throttle control and braking technique when used properly can help you steer around corners, sometimes better than turning the steering wheel. Proper cornering techniques will help you negotiate as well, if not better than, than many suspension parts.

[v606er]

Thanks for the advice on getting track time boss. reverend said the camber bolts would get it to factory level alignment, but the cc plates would get it even better, but is it really worth the extra ~200$ to get the alignment slightly better? I know 'worth it' is very subjective, but I'm not doing any national motor-x events either.

[07 Boss]

Originally Posted by v606er Thanks for the advice on getting track time boss. reverend said the camber bolts would get it to factory level alignment, but the cc plates would get it even better, but is it really worth the extra ~200$ to get the alignment slightly better? I know 'worth it' is very subjective, but I'm not doing any national motor-x events either.

Well that all depends on how much adjustability you want and if you are going to use it. One thing you have to consider with those is IF you can run your STB with it. Do some research. Certain CC plates can be used with certain STB's I believe. I don't know which ones though. Camber bolts work and are inexpensive, but do have there draw backs. Adjusting them is kinda a PITA and I've heard of instances where they can walk or be clocked out of adjustment with a hard jolt to the suspension. They were actually my second choice for camber adjustment after my Steeda billet camber plates were rendered useless when I upgraded my shocks & struts to Bilsteins. So I was already in quite a few bucks when I had to change the way I adjusted for camber. If I were to do it all over again I would probably would buy Caster/Camber strut mount plates knowing what I know now.

[v606er]

Alright these J&M cc plates work with strut tower braces(one of the user pictures has the cc plates and an STB), and I think they will work with the Tokico struts(one of the user comments said he had these cc plates and the tokico struts on his GT500)