[1st07stang]

Hey guys, I just installed my new BBK twin 62mm t-body on my 07 stang gt. Install was simple and I fallowedthe instructions to a "t". But now the idle is way high (960-1000 rpm) according to my tach and my predator. Also upon taking it out for a drive as soon as I get ready to shift gears (no matter what rpm Im at) the rpm's hang at what ever the engine rpm's were at, at the time ( shift @ 3k and they stay there ) if I "blip" the throttle to try and get them to drop it just makes it worse, rpm's go even higher to the point I have to shut off the ignition and then start the car again to get them to drop.
Again I fallowed BBK's instructions to a "T" and tripple checked everything. I seem to be at a loss as to what to do. I also looked on there Q&A section of there web site and it talks about removing the positive and negitive conections from the battery over night to conpletely reset the ECU (Im trying it now).
I was wondering if anyone else has run into the same problem and how did you fix it, need it fixed by tomarrow or Im gonna have to put the stock t-body back on till I can talk to BBK.
The only other mod's I have done to the car are a, C&L race intake, Predator tune (for the c&l intake), over drive pulley's and the BBK t-body. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

[Luis_GT]

From what I've read in the forums, aftermarket TB's just give loads problems and no real performance to the new modular engines... Reason why almost noone uses them

[1st07stang]

thanks for your input, anyone else???

[F4iMerlin]

Sounds like the new idle stop screw is set too "hot". Back it off a few turns until the idle returns to normal. Should be all you need to do.

[1st07stang]

Originally Posted by F4iMerlin Sounds like the new idle stop screw is set too "hot". Back it off a few turns until the idle returns to normal. Should be all you need to do.

I thought of that and they mention it in the install instructions, but that would only cure the standing idle, correct? My concern is the idle hang while driving. Thats my main concern. Thanks for your sujestion though.

[1st07stang]

Might I also add, to me it seems like a vacume leak. So after removing the t-body and inspecting everything and then reinstalling it, with the engine running I sprayed t-body cleaner around the surface where the t-body and intake mate. No change in idle. So I dont think there is a vacume leak.

[Coltdog]

The throttle bodies are causing lots of problems on the new modular engines and BBK is aware of this. Take it off, put the stock throttle body back on, and send it back to BBK and demand a refund.

Take the money and buy yourself a delete plate. It will add much more horsepower without all the problems.

Good luck.

[Luis_GT]

heres a quote from Maverick about aftermarket TB's sorry I could'nt help any, but with a high risk factor as this, I would stay clear of aftermarket TB's

Originally Posted by MaverickMLFD371 yup, my buddy's 05 went into failsafe mode with the GMS. its a well known problem with the new T/B that they produce problems. the car felt powerless. even when you drove the car under 50, the car felt like it was going to die!! other people had problems where they couldn't go higher than 30, all because of this damn POS t/b. another problem was that when people let off the acceleration, the car continued to accelerate for 3-5 more seconds before it decelerated due to the gears/mechanisms on the t/b and the blades. we unbolted the GMS t/b and put the stock one back on, car went back to normal. he threw away the GMS t/b because it wasn't safe and he couldn't justify selling it to anyone else and end up having the same problems or better yet have an accident if something seriously went wrong with the car while they was driving it. sorry flattus, I didnt mean to hijack your thread, from my knowledge on the many other forums that aftermarket T/B's on the new stang's are wrothless. I'm glad that its working for you, but just be cautious if perhaps your car goes into failsafe mode or something happens. Many have confronted J.R. Granatelli about the issue over the phone but does nothing to help anyone. he just flaps his mouth and says there's nothing wrong with out T/B its your car! he's a liar and pretty much will take any money he can get.

[F4iMerlin]

Originally Posted by 1st07stang Originally Posted by F4iMerlin Sounds like the new idle stop screw is set too "hot". Back it off a few turns until the idle returns to normal. Should be all you need to do. I thought of that and they mention it in the install instructions, but that would only cure the standing idle, correct? My concern is the idle hang while driving. Thats my main concern. Thanks for your sujestion though.

I had the same thing happen on my '00. I set the idle screw a little too high and when revved, it would not come down from higher rpms. Obviously, at idle, it was also too high.
Something to check.

[1st07stang]

Originally Posted by Coltdog The throttle bodies are causing lots of problems on the new modular engines and BBK is aware of this. Take it off, put the stock throttle body back on, and send it back to BBK and demand a refund. Take the money and buy yourself a delete plate. It will add much more horsepower without all the problems. Good luck.

Got the T-body from RPM Outlet, I know they are not going to issue a refund, but will give me a instore credit. But I will be calling BBK on Monday to see what they have to say about the problem. I have the battery disconected now and will reconect it in the morning. If no change in the idle of the car then yes I will be putting the stocker back on.

[F4iMerlin]

CHECK THE IDLE SCREW FIRST, ITS FREE AND PAINLESS

I'm telling you, I had the exact same symptoms when I installed my Accufab, adjusted the screw, and it runs perfect now. This may not be your problem, but it is worth checking.

[1st07stang]

Originally Posted by F4iMerlin CHECK THE IDLE SCREW FIRST, ITS FREE AND PAINLESS I'm telling you, I had the exact same symptoms when I installed my Accufab, adjusted the screw, and it runs perfect now. This may not be your problem, but it is worth checking.

Im gonna do that 2 in the morning, Thanks merlin. To tired and pissed now to even mess with it.
By the way Coltdog you mentioned a delete plate. What and where can one get one of these. ( not to change the topic of my post).
Pleas e keep the advice coming. It is how I/we learn.

[Luis_GT]

I think ghis talking about the Charging-motion delete plate.



I've been lurking the forums for far to long now...

Originally Posted by L33T I got 18 rwhp from my irmc delete plates. Dyno'd before and after install. Those plates were probably the most noticable mod I've done. It really woke my car up. Do get a tune if you remove the hydrocarbon trap, I removed it and was running rich until I got the tune. I'd be glad to talk with you about my mod experiences so far. Grats on the ride!

It depends on the tune

[psycho bob]

you can get the plates from steeda or ford racing

http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ion_plates.php

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9123

[ozan169]

2005 mustang GT auto
Stoptech gt stage 2 braking system
Kenny brown strut tower brace
Bmr rear swaybar
Bmr lower rear control arms
Bbk airfilter kit
Bbk ceramic short headers
Magnaflow x pipe with racing cats
Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust System
Bbk 62mm twin throttle body
Moto blue under drive pulley kit
brentspeed Sct tuner
Ford racing 4.10 gears
Comp cam racing cams stage1
comp cam valve steel retainers
comp cam valve springs
Ford racing cmcv delete kit
tci torque converter 3000stall

hi iv got a 2005 mustang auto box and have the bbk throttle body as well but i think im the lucky one because i have mine on the car 4 about 6months and no problems at all i done same as you i followed everything on the paper. after i installed it i left the car to run for about 5mins then jumped in and went for a spin i did find power in the rev range after 2000rpm to about 6000rpm. good luck with yours

Originally Posted by 1st07stang Hey guys, I just installed my new BBK twin 62mm t-body on my 07 stang gt. Install was simple and I fallowedthe instructions to a "t". But now the idle is way high (960-1000 rpm) according to my tach and my predator. Also upon taking it out for a drive as soon as I get ready to shift gears (no matter what rpm Im at) the rpm's hang at what ever the engine rpm's were at, at the time ( shift @ 3k and they stay there ) if I "blip" the throttle to try and get them to drop it just makes it worse, rpm's go even higher to the point I have to shut off the ignition and then start the car again to get them to drop. Again I fallowed BBK's instructions to a "T" and tripple checked everything. I seem to be at a loss as to what to do. I also looked on there Q&A section of there web site and it talks about removing the positive and negitive conections from the battery over night to conpletely reset the ECU (Im trying it now). I was wondering if anyone else has run into the same problem and how did you fix it, need it fixed by tomarrow or Im gonna have to put the stock t-body back on till I can talk to BBK. The only other mod's I have done to the car are a, C&L race intake, Predator tune (for the c&l intake), over drive pulley's and the BBK t-body. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

[L33T]

Sounds just like the problems I had when changing my T/B.
Except it looks like you haven't had to deal with 'forced limited power' mode. It's no fun. If you don't own a handheld tuner this will change that very fast.

Our stock T/B's have been ran deep into the 10's, I would recommend spending the money elsewhere.

[Coltdog]

1st07Stang,

Sorry I dropped off the forum and didn't catch your request for the delete plate. But, it looks like some other stang buddies have already pointed you in the right direction.

Good luck with the modding.

[1st07stang]

Well Just an update to all. I messed with the idle set screw and it help with of course the standing idle, and to my surprise it helped a little with the higher idle "drop off" after being on the gas or shifting gears, BUT not eneough to warrent keeping it on the car. The idle still "hangs" for a period of time and its more agrivating than anything. I have found the stocker does the same but not as long as the BBK. The stocker will hang for a spilt second and then the rpm's drop off. The BBK will hang for a good 5 sec. ( counting one thousand one, one thousand two, ect...). So I took it off. I did feel a differance in throttle responce and pull from 3k and up. Now with the stocker on and the over drive pulley's I also installed over the weekend I can feel a good bit of in the seat of your pants differance.
Im gonna call BBK tomarrow and see if there is a fix (dought it) for the hanging throttle. Or I might now have a new expensive paper weight. Thanks for all the input and help guys.

[MaverickMLFD371]

get rid of that BBK T/B before you have even more problems!!

[1st07stang]

Well I dont think RPM Outlet is gonna take back the t-body, do to the fact it now has a few tool marks on it. And according to there return policy for any type of credit or exchange it has to have not been installed or be marked up. To bad I couldnt get it to work. Cause after driving around today on the stock t-body, I could tell a differance between the 2. The BBK did help the car pull harder and a little quicker. Im still gonna call BBK tomarrow and talk to them, see if they can do anything.