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Old March 20th, 2010, 11:51 PM   #21
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No offense hamish, but like everything else in life you get what you pay for. Glowshift gauges have a lenghty reputation of not lasting very long. I'm sure they will function great now, but give them 6 months and see how they are working... I just don't see how someone can try to save a couple bucks on a gauge when it's monitoring A 20k investment.
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Old March 21st, 2010, 02:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 1FastFox View Post
No offense hamish, but like everything else in life you get what you pay for. Glowshift gauges have a lenghty reputation of not lasting very long. I'm sure they will function great now, but give them 6 months and see how they are working... I just don't see how someone can try to save a couple bucks on a gauge when it's monitoring A 20k investment.
i paid a bit over than 30k -.-
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Old March 21st, 2010, 03:07 AM   #23
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these are glow shifts. they are almost an exect match. but again they deffinately aren't the best. the fuel pressure only last me about 2 weeks
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Old March 21st, 2010, 03:07 AM   #24
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No offense taken.
I personally wanted the cobalt gauges but out of my range.
As for longevity, these have a 1 year warranty.
If they are at all innaccurate I will send them back.
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Old March 21st, 2010, 09:58 AM   #25
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how does it last 2 weeks lol.. i dont understand how gauges break.. there job seems kind of simple apart from everything else in the car.
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Old March 21st, 2010, 10:48 AM   #26
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SOS Guages


http://<a href="http://s199.photobuc...tobucket"></a>

SoS with AutoMeter Cobalt Boost/Digital Info Guages
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Old March 21st, 2010, 11:24 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Youngin View Post
how does it last 2 weeks lol.. i dont understand how gauges break.. there job seems kind of simple apart from everything else in the car.
when i accelerate at all it pegs the gauge
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Old March 21st, 2010, 03:27 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by hamish View Post
No offense taken.
I personally wanted the cobalt gauges but out of my range.
As for longevity, these have a 1 year warranty.
If they are at all innaccurate I will send them back.
Yeah the guages do have warranties, but if happens when they lose their accuracy and your air/fuel says your stoich but in reality your running leaner than all hell and burning stuff up without even knowing it. At that point getting a new gauge is the least of your concerns. This is what I was referring to...
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Old March 21st, 2010, 04:03 PM   #29
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I've decided not to run an a/f gauge. I have no means to check it's accuracy.
Which one are you running?
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Old March 21st, 2010, 04:04 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Buck's GT500 View Post
http://<a href="http://s199.photobuc...tobucket"></a>

SoS with AutoMeter Cobalt Boost/Digital Info Guages
links broken ;P
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Old March 21st, 2010, 04:05 PM   #31
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I think that the cobalt gauges look real good compared to the factory gauges, I like them.

Youngin, to give you a better idea about the difference between mechanical and electric gauges, a mechanical gauage is mechanically driven like fastfox said. But more specifically, an example would be that a mechanical fuel pressure guage has a fuel line going to it, so fuel is litteraly going into the car. Same for oil pressure. A mechanical boost gauge has a vacuum line attached to it. Electronic gauages are isolated with sending units, so there is a fuel pressure sending unit on the fuel rail, then wiring from it to the gauge. YOu really don't want mechanical gauges in the car. A boost guage is fine, since it just measures air, but you don't want a fuel or oil line going into the car because if it broke somehow you'd have gasoline spraying in your car. So you could mount them outside, like on the cowl for instance. But for inside-the-car uses, you want electric gauges. I know mechanical gauges used to be considered more accurate, but I don't think that is the case anymore with the technology and higher grade sending units we have today.

A a/f gauge just connects to a factory oxygen sensor and tells you what it is reading. This is completely useless, as a factory 02 sensor has a very limited range and is constantly switching from rich to lean. Basically all this will do is give you a light show as the lights bounce back and forth. A wideband a/f gauge uses a wideband oxygen sensor that must be added to the exhaust and tells you your actual, exact air/fuel ratio. This is significantly more accurate, and obviously actually useful. This is what you want.
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Old March 21st, 2010, 04:11 PM   #32
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thanks for clearing that up urban.. makes sense now.

damnit cant rep ya.. someone give him some repsauce for me!
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Old March 21st, 2010, 07:59 PM   #33
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Maybe this has been covered before.... But where is the best place to hook up 12v inside the car for gauge power and where you can find a good hook up for lighting that adjusts with gauge light level. If possible... Thanks!
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Old March 21st, 2010, 08:20 PM   #34
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i tapped in the back of the head light switch for lighting
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