weld in relocation brackets and control arms - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 17 Old March 20th, 2010, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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weld in relocation brackets and control arms

got a set of umi weld-in relocation brackets and a set of there lower control arms to put on the car to try and help with the traction

first disconnect the battery and get the car in the air supported by the body. take of the wheel and disconnect the ebrake cable from the caliper

remove the cable from the lower control arm then remove the lower control arm


next if equipped (Not sure what years the cars had these) remove the weights that bolt to the lower control arm mount on the rear end

bolt the relocation bracket in place. i had to get a shorter bolt for the upperbolt as the kit did not supply it

now weld around all edges

let it cool off. paint it and install the control arm

hook the e-brake back up

and bolt in the front

i installed it in the lower hole and at ride height i now have it going slight up hill as before it was down hill pretty hard.

repeat on the other side



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post #2 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 12:47 AM
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It looks good! Good write up. Relocation brackets and LCAs really help out a lot. Now you just need that adj. UCA!

Next time you're going to be welding on it it's not a bad idea to pull the plugs or even remove the PCM, regardless of the battery being disconnected. Seen a lot of PCMs get fried because of it.
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post #3 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyStang113 View Post
It looks good! Good write up. Relocation brackets and LCAs really help out a lot. Now you just need that adj. UCA!

Next time you're going to be welding on it it's not a bad idea to pull the plugs or even remove the PCM, regardless of the battery being disconnected. Seen a lot of PCMs get fried because of it.
yeah the upper control arm is next. good to know on the pcm. Thanks!


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post #4 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 01:23 AM
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The lower relocation brackets need to be properly aligned before any welding begins. You can very easily weld them in wrong and everything bolt right up, but have the rear out of proper alignment with the front axle. This write up really should stress that. Relocation brackets must be welded in using serious attention to detail using an alignment rack or have very close measurements of front/rear axle distances on the fucking money on both sides of the car before the welds are done. Bottom line...both front and rear wheel centers need to measure out exactly the same on both sides and it's super easy to fuck that up.

Sorry to jump in here and say this, but it has to be said. Do not do what this write up describes without properly setting front/rear axle distances...meaning ...you don't want your front rear axles to be out of line...like right side an inch or so more wheelbase than the left side. Very easy to screw up without an alignment rack or super close attention to detail with wheelbase measurements on both sides of the car.

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post #5 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyStang113 View Post
It looks good! Good write up. Relocation brackets and LCAs really help out a lot. Now you just need that adj. UCA!

Next time you're going to be welding on it it's not a bad idea to pull the plugs or even remove the PCM, regardless of the battery being disconnected. Seen a lot of PCMs get fried because of it.
What do you mean next time he's welding? I still need to weld my brackets so this was good to know

JLT cai, Borla Stinger AB, Pacesetter LT, O/R H, CMDP, UDP, 4.10, J&M LCA, Eibach Sportlines, adj panhard and brace, adj UCA and bracket, welded LCA bracket, Spydershaft, GT500 tb, SCT 93 oct
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post #6 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony05GT View Post
The lower relocation brackets need to be properly aligned before any welding begins. You can very easily weld them in wrong and everything bolt right up, but have the rear out of proper alignment with the front axle. This write up really should stress that. Relocation brackets must be welded in using serious attention to detail using an alignment rack or have very close measurements of front/rear axle distances on the fucking money on both sides of the car before the welds are done. Bottom line...both front and rear wheel centers need to measure out exactly the same on both sides and it's super easy to fuck that up.

Sorry to jump in here and say this, but it has to be said. Do not do what this write up describes without properly setting front/rear axle distances...meaning ...you don't want your front rear axles to be out of line...like right side an inch or so more wheelbase than the left side. Very easy to screw up without an alignment rack or super close attention to detail with wheelbase measurements on both sides of the car.
i did measure this and the umi brackets with the upper bolt put them dead nuts so depending on the manufacture this could be different but the umi ones worked nicely


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post #7 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 09:31 AM
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That's worth noting on your write up. Good looking welds by the way.

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post #8 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 02:24 PM
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Looks good. I need to get mine welded in. They are just bolted in right now.

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post #9 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 02:31 PM
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I have the bolted in ones too, I wanted them because of the extra support on the back with the metal tab. My buddy is welding it at his shop for me

JLT cai, Borla Stinger AB, Pacesetter LT, O/R H, CMDP, UDP, 4.10, J&M LCA, Eibach Sportlines, adj panhard and brace, adj UCA and bracket, welded LCA bracket, Spydershaft, GT500 tb, SCT 93 oct
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post #10 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 10:09 PM
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another LCA question, so i am ordering the BMR LCAs and relo kits and i was wondering if i could install it all my self and then drive it to the shop to get welded in to save on the install fees??



308 RWHP and 322RWT with some stuff
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post #11 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StutteringStang06 View Post
another LCA question, so i am ordering the BMR LCAs and relo kits and i was wondering if i could install it all my self and then drive it to the shop to get welded in to save on the install fees??
Okay thread stealer, yes you can

JLT cai, Borla Stinger AB, Pacesetter LT, O/R H, CMDP, UDP, 4.10, J&M LCA, Eibach Sportlines, adj panhard and brace, adj UCA and bracket, welded LCA bracket, Spydershaft, GT500 tb, SCT 93 oct
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post #12 of 17 Old March 21st, 2010, 10:40 PM
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Okay thread stealer, yes you can
haha srry to lazy to start my own thread and this one seamed pretty dead



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post #13 of 17 Old March 28th, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Yur2slo View Post
i did measure this and the umi brackets with the upper bolt put them dead nuts so depending on the manufacture this could be different but the umi ones worked nicely
Excellent write up and thanks for the pictures

Like you mentioned our weld in brackets also bolt into the tapped hole in the rear end where the weight on the newer models is. This insures you can only install the bracket one way, meaning we did all the measuring to insure the rear end is centered during the design process. Of course it never hurts to double check!

Thanks again and I am glad to see you liked the product. Nice welding as well

Ryan
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post #14 of 17 Old March 28th, 2010, 01:44 PM
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One suggestion I would make UMI, that little spacer for the driver side should be a bigger piece so that 1) its easier to hold in place when trying to match up the bolt, and 2) makes another spot to weld the bracket to the axle so there isnt wasted room on the top part to make welds. Although I see that piece is already welded into the "weld in bracket" but my "bolt in bracket" was just a loose piece and was a PITA at times because I had a that top hole not matching but all the other holes did

Just did mine too and i pulled the battery wires and unplugged the PCM. Spraying up the rear axle now to make it look pretty

JLT cai, Borla Stinger AB, Pacesetter LT, O/R H, CMDP, UDP, 4.10, J&M LCA, Eibach Sportlines, adj panhard and brace, adj UCA and bracket, welded LCA bracket, Spydershaft, GT500 tb, SCT 93 oct

Last edited by TotoGT06; March 28th, 2010 at 01:48 PM.
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post #15 of 17 Old March 29th, 2010, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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the onlything i think the kit needs is the shorter bolts i had to get to replace the weights


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post #16 of 17 Old March 29th, 2010, 12:48 AM
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I had the bolts for where the weights were, I left the weights off

JLT cai, Borla Stinger AB, Pacesetter LT, O/R H, CMDP, UDP, 4.10, J&M LCA, Eibach Sportlines, adj panhard and brace, adj UCA and bracket, welded LCA bracket, Spydershaft, GT500 tb, SCT 93 oct
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post #17 of 17 Old March 29th, 2010, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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i did to but you need shorter bolts to replace them and i didn't get those


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