[StutteringStang06]

srry that its a little long, the more detail the easier it is to understand haha

so i installed my head unit a few weeks ago, a pioneer avic-u310bt and it went very easy except for one thing, when i turn on the car the stock 8inch door subs pop loudly, the sound made if you cross wires. now i looked over the specs the harness itself and it was all matched fine and done right, when i installed it i noticed that there was 2 plugs to splice in the regular harness and the stock amp harness( it contains 2 RCA males and 2 12v positive amp turn on wires, both the same blue with white strip) and i had a problem on were to put those 2 identical wires. i tried the red amp turn on wire and the yellow wire and even spliced it into a door speaker positive wire. when i did all these swaps the popping got softer then louder and switched back and forth and i got it to be very soft but when i turned it up the stock subs just die out due to not enough power from the speaker wire. ive gotten so tired of it i finally asked my friend who works at a best but install bay and he told me to splice it into the pioneer harness's remote control wire(also blue with white stripe) and that would fix it, the subs dont die out anymore but now the pop is louder then ever. anyone have any ideas one what i did wrong, or what to do for any of you who installed there head units.

[StutteringStang06]

heres a pick of the wires im talking about
http://www.ioffer.com/img/item/115/164/377/nYF8.jpg

[JakeM]

This is a known issue. You have to add a voltage regulator to the harness. Here are instructions on what to do, I used these same instructions to install my head unit even though it is not a AVIC unit. It is almost universal as our cars only use a 5v reference whereas the aftermarket head unit uses a 12v reference to turn on the amp. So, when you hit the key your speakers pop. It shouldn't hurt your stereo, its just annoying.


Instructions below:
Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up - Mustang Forums at StangNet

"Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only):

This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up.

To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads.
"

[StutteringStang06]

Originally Posted by Towelly This is a known issue. You have to add a voltage regulator to the harness. Here are instructions on what to do, I used these same instructions to install my head unit even though it is not a AVIC unit. It is almost universal as our cars only use a 5v reference whereas the aftermarket head unit uses a 12v reference to turn on the amp. So, when you hit the key your speakers pop. It shouldn't hurt your stereo, its just annoying. Instructions below: Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up - Mustang Forums at StangNet "Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only): This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up. To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads. "

reps reps reps!!! thank you

[JakeM]

Originally Posted by StutteringStang06 reps reps reps!!! thank you

No problem and Good luck! Its an easy fix.

[StutteringStang06]

Originally Posted by Towelly No problem and Good luck! Its an easy fix.

yea i just bought the thing and gunna do it after work tomorrow

[stanglifemike]

Any one have a part number for the voltage regulator from Radioshack? I called 2 local stores to make sure they had it before I go there when I get off work and no one knows what I'm talking about and apparently the numbers given in the write-up link posted above are not part numbers...

[Emay]

Tell radio shack to go on their own website:

+5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 - RadioShack.com

[stanglifemike]

^^Haha, you know most employees dont really care anyway...

Anyway, finally talked to one who knew what they were doing and just got back from the store with it.
For those who may need it in the future, the Radio Shack SKU# 276-1770

[hoodee01]

will this make the subs in the door sound as good as they did with the shaker 500 system? im having the same problem, it all works but i almost lost all bass in the car after installing my pioneer 3100. does the 5v thing from radioshak just fix the popping or the bass problem too?

[DiMora]

Originally Posted by hoodee01 will this make the subs in the door sound as good as they did with the shaker 500 system? im having the same problem, it all works but i almost lost all bass in the car after installing my pioneer 3100. does the 5v thing from radioshak just fix the popping or the bass problem too?

Popping only. It is only a turn-on wire voltage fix.

[Sarge Silver Surfer]

This is why i took stock out. Couldnt stand the low quality system that costs like 2000 dollars from dealer. Those stock subs need to be watched as the slightest distortion will destroy them. That does include that pop sound.

[warrior86]

Here is a good link on how to wire the voltage regulator. Refer to the 3rd post down; and yes there is not much room to wire anything without soldering it.

How to: create a delay on radio start up to stop "POP"

[warrior86]

"edited"
sorry for the double post!

[BHosek]

When installing the voltage regulator in the Shaker 500 with the Metra 70-5521 Harness:

1) If I wire the blue&white remote wire from my aftermarket deck to the left prong, a ground wire to the middle prong, and both blue&white remote wires from the small (sub/rca) interface on the metra 70-5521 then what do I do with the blue&white system remote wire from the large wire cluster on the metra 70-5521

2) Can I connect the ground wire on my aftermarket deck, the ground wire from the metra 70-5521 large wire cluster, and the ground wire I add to the middle prong of the voltage regulator together to make a ground cluster that will function properly? I don't have to ground anywhere to the actual body of the car do I?

THX