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post #1 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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radio harness install question/problem

srry that its a little long, the more detail the easier it is to understand haha

so i installed my head unit a few weeks ago, a pioneer avic-u310bt and it went very easy except for one thing, when i turn on the car the stock 8inch door subs pop loudly, the sound made if you cross wires. now i looked over the specs the harness itself and it was all matched fine and done right, when i installed it i noticed that there was 2 plugs to splice in the regular harness and the stock amp harness( it contains 2 RCA males and 2 12v positive amp turn on wires, both the same blue with white strip) and i had a problem on were to put those 2 identical wires. i tried the red amp turn on wire and the yellow wire and even spliced it into a door speaker positive wire. when i did all these swaps the popping got softer then louder and switched back and forth and i got it to be very soft but when i turned it up the stock subs just die out due to not enough power from the speaker wire. ive gotten so tired of it i finally asked my friend who works at a best but install bay and he told me to splice it into the pioneer harness's remote control wire(also blue with white stripe) and that would fix it, the subs dont die out anymore but now the pop is louder then ever. anyone have any ideas one what i did wrong, or what to do for any of you who installed there head units.



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post #2 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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heres a pick of the wires im talking about
http://www.ioffer.com/img/item/115/164/377/nYF8.jpg



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post #3 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 10:20 PM
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This is a known issue. You have to add a voltage regulator to the harness. Here are instructions on what to do, I used these same instructions to install my head unit even though it is not a AVIC unit. It is almost universal as our cars only use a 5v reference whereas the aftermarket head unit uses a 12v reference to turn on the amp. So, when you hit the key your speakers pop. It shouldn't hurt your stereo, its just annoying.


Instructions below:
Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up - Mustang Forums at StangNet

"Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only):

This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up.

To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads.
"

Last edited by JakeM; May 7th, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
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post #4 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towelly View Post
This is a known issue. You have to add a voltage regulator to the harness. Here are instructions on what to do, I used these same instructions to install my head unit even though it is not a AVIC unit. It is almost universal as our cars only use a 5v reference whereas the aftermarket head unit uses a 12v reference to turn on the amp. So, when you hit the key your speakers pop. It shouldn't hurt your stereo, its just annoying.


Instructions below:
Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up - Mustang Forums at StangNet

"Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only):

This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up.

To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads.
"
reps reps reps!!! thank you



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post #5 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by StutteringStang06 View Post
reps reps reps!!! thank you
No problem and Good luck! Its an easy fix.
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post #6 of 16 Old May 7th, 2010, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towelly View Post
No problem and Good luck! Its an easy fix.
yea i just bought the thing and gunna do it after work tomorrow



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post #7 of 16 Old August 17th, 2010, 03:48 PM
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Any one have a part number for the voltage regulator from Radioshack? I called 2 local stores to make sure they had it before I go there when I get off work and no one knows what I'm talking about and apparently the numbers given in the write-up link posted above are not part numbers...


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post #8 of 16 Old August 17th, 2010, 03:55 PM
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Tell radio shack to go on their own website:

+5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 - RadioShack.com
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post #9 of 16 Old August 17th, 2010, 04:46 PM
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^^Haha, you know most employees dont really care anyway...

Anyway, finally talked to one who knew what they were doing and just got back from the store with it.
For those who may need it in the future, the Radio Shack SKU# 276-1770


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post #10 of 16 Old March 11th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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will this make the subs in the door sound as good as they did with the shaker 500 system? im having the same problem, it all works but i almost lost all bass in the car after installing my pioneer 3100. does the 5v thing from radioshak just fix the popping or the bass problem too?
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post #11 of 16 Old March 11th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodee01 View Post
will this make the subs in the door sound as good as they did with the shaker 500 system? im having the same problem, it all works but i almost lost all bass in the car after installing my pioneer 3100. does the 5v thing from radioshak just fix the popping or the bass problem too?
Popping only. It is only a turn-on wire voltage fix.


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post #12 of 16 Old March 20th, 2011, 09:49 PM
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This is why i took stock out. Couldnt stand the low quality system that costs like 2000 dollars from dealer. Those stock subs need to be watched as the slightest distortion will destroy them. That does include that pop sound.


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post #13 of 16 Old March 23rd, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Here is a good link on how to wire the voltage regulator. Refer to the 3rd post down; and yes there is not much room to wire anything without soldering it.

How to: create a delay on radio start up to stop "POP"

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post #14 of 16 Old March 23rd, 2011, 12:06 AM
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"edited"
sorry for the double post!

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post #15 of 16 Old March 2nd, 2013, 07:07 PM
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When installing the voltage regulator in the Shaker 500 with the Metra 70-5521 Harness:

1) If I wire the blue&white remote wire from my aftermarket deck to the left prong, a ground wire to the middle prong, and both blue&white remote wires from the small (sub/rca) interface on the metra 70-5521 then what do I do with the blue&white system remote wire from the large wire cluster on the metra 70-5521

2) Can I connect the ground wire on my aftermarket deck, the ground wire from the metra 70-5521 large wire cluster, and the ground wire I add to the middle prong of the voltage regulator together to make a ground cluster that will function properly? I don't have to ground anywhere to the actual body of the car do I?

THX
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post #16 of 16 Old December 13th, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Hi guys and gals:

New to the forum and just wanted to jump in on the replacement of speakers. I have a 2011 SMS with Nav shaker 500. I changed out the front and rear speakers with Infinity REF6832CF up front and Rockford Fosgate R168X2 in the rear. Used the Metra 72-5600 harnesses and they are indeed reversed polarity. SO...I pulled the doors apart again and found that with a large paper clip bent streight, I could push the black and white wired pins out of their sockets. They are only held in by tension, not a clip so I simply pushed (hard) them out and carefully swapped them around so the black wire is now on top (or away from the clip side). They worked perfectly without cutting wires/splicing wires or putting new end plugs on them so they look just like the one's from Crutchfield. Now SOME older mustangs do have the harness attached to the speakers going the way Metra has it set up but the newer mustangs it is not. A quick look in the trunk at the exposed speakers will let you know which ones you need to buy. If you are looking at the speaker face down on a table with the posts turned to 6 o clock, the RIGHT one is the positive. Always! It then attaches to the bigger end plug of the Metra harness. So look at your speaker connection and see which set up you need. Again it took me 1 minute to change the wires on both harnesses (after I figured it out) so buy the cheapest ones and fix as needed!! Hope this helps. All four speakers are 6 x 8 / 5x 7 size.
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