[Nameless]

I'm going to divide this write-up into two parts. The first part is Rear Side Marker Removal and can be used if you need to replace the marker with an aftermarket product, replace the light bulb, or as I will show you in Part 2, tint the marker with a spray tint such as VHT Niteshades.



Part 1 - Rear Side Marker Removal

STEP 1: Gather the tools. For this job, you will simply need a Phillips Head Screwdriver.



STEP 2: At the rear of the fender well, you will see two screws that need to be removed. Others have proposed that you can avoid this and simply pry it out with a flat head screwdriver, but I scratched my bumper attempting that even while using a towel between my screwdriver and Marker...just remove the 2 screws and don't attempt a shortcut.



STEP 3: After you have removed the screws, gently pry the rear fascia away to expose the Rear Side Marker.



STEP 4: Unplug the Marker from the harness.



STEP 5: There is a simple tab on the forward portion of the Marker holding down one side while the other side is just hooked behind the fascia itself. Press in on the tab and press outward while being careful not to let the Marker fall to the ground.



STEP 6: Repeat Steps 2-5 on the other Side Marker.

Part 2 - Spray Tinting the Rear Side Markers

STEP 1: Gather the tools necessary for this job. You will need your spray tint (I used VHT Niteshades), 200-300 grit sandpaper, 1500 & 2000 grit sandpaper, Rubbing Alcohol, Painters Tape, Water Bottle, Clear Coat

STEP 2: Take your 200-300 Grit Sandpaper and sand off the "Ford" and "DOT" lettering. (I say 200-300 because I had some 230 grit laying around and just used it).




STEP 3: Sand the entire Marker so that it will be even because there are sometimes dimples or minor imperfections from the OEM molding process.

STEP 4: Follow it up with the 1500 grit sandpaper. I chose to only sand in straight lines the length of the Marker to avoid swirl marks. I'm happy with the results.

STEP 5: Tape off the backing of the lens to avoid unnecessary over-spray.



STEP 6: Wipe the Marker thoroughly with Rubbing Alcohol to remove the sanding dust and any residual wax that has accrued over time.

STEP 7: Apply the Spray Tint in light even coats. This isn't the time to rush it so makes dozens of light passes instead of a few heavy passes because you'll end up having to sand it all off to remove the drips because you tried to rush it. Keep making passes until you get a well covered coat.



STEP 8: After applying the first coat of paint and letting it dry, wet sand it with the 1500 grit followed by the 2000 grit sandpaper. Don't forget to keep it wet (I used a spray bottle of water) and I continued to sand in straight lines instead of circles to avoid swirls.

STEP 9: Repeat Steps 7 & 8.

STEP 10: Apply the Clearcoat using the same method in Step 7, except you can be a little more liberal in applying it because it will dry clear, just don't make it drip because it will just give you more work in your wetsanding. Let it dry completely. (30 mins?)



STEP 11: Follow the Step 8 instructions but just use the 2000 grit sandpaper.



STEP 12: Repeat Step 10.

STEP 13: People differ here on whether to wetsand one last time before buffing, but I did not wetsand after my final clearcoat. I just buffed it with a microfiber towel and will buff it with the rubbing compound in a few days.



STEP 14: Reinstall on vehicle using the instructions in Part 1 in reverse.




STEP 15: Give me Reps and then hit the roads looking like a total badass!

[Alter Ego Trip]

Nice write up. That seems like more work than you need for removal though. They are barely held in with a little plastic clip. Any flat blade object slid in from the outside will pop them out in about 2 seconds.

[psycho bob]

Originally Posted by NamelessLiar [B]just remove the 2 screws and don't attempt a shortcut.

read directions so not to f%$# it up


hey nameless, sweet write up, but why no re-installed pic

[stanglifemike]

Nice!! but I totaly agree with Alter, those things come out so easily its almost scary. I dont see how you scratched your bumper....

[Nameless]

I know that they are held in precariously, but when I tried it with the screwdriver they just wouldn't pop. I got them to bend and flex and seemed like they were almost there, but at the expense of the paint around my rear fascia (even though I used a towel) But seriously, 2 mins to remove 2 screws? Totally worth it in my book to save some paint. Like my grandfather used to say,

"Any job, big or small, do it well or not at all."

[Nameless]

Originally Posted by psycho bob read directions so not to f%$# it up hey nameless, sweet write up, but why no re-installed pic

Well I had to put out fires over the phone for a couple of hours so by the time I got to re-install it was too dark to take pics. I'll amend it tomorrow with some SCHWEET installed pics.

[Alter Ego Trip]

Originally Posted by NamelessLiar I know that they are held in precariously, but when I tried it with the screwdriver they just wouldn't pop. I got them to bend and flex and seemed like they were almost there, but at the expense of the paint around my rear fascia (even though I used a towel) But seriously, 2 mins to remove 2 screws? Totally worth it in my book to save some paint. Like my grandfather used to say, "Any job, big or small, do it well or not at all."

Depends on which side you tried popping them out from. They come out much easier one way than the other. No reason you should damage paint popping them from the outside. It required no pressure at all to remove them.

But if the screw removal process works better for someone; have at it.

[psycho bob]

now that about 80% of the car is fresh paint i think i'd just remove 2 screws also. even if i knew that i could get it out. just a bit of extra caution

[stanglifemike]

Originally Posted by Alter Ego Trip Depends on which side you tried popping them out from. They come out much easier one way than the other. No reason you should damage paint popping them from the outside. It required no pressure at all to remove them. But if the screw removal process works better for someone; have at it.

yea, I think I tried to pry them from the back an they didnt budge. Then I moved to the front and as soon as I slid my pocket screwdriver behind them they fell out. All cars are different though, so may be in there tighter than others.

Looking forward to the installed pics man!! I'm sure it looks sweet

[RetroGT2006]

Looks good, but all i did was take a flat head and pop it out.. Took no effort, i was amazed how easy it was.

[Alter Ego Trip]

Originally Posted by RetroGT2006 Looks good, but all i did was take a flat head and pop it out.. Took no effort, i was amazed how easy it was.

You can take them out with a flat blade without removing the bumper?

[101fng]

looks good. idk how your markers were, but i removed mine with a credit card lol. but i'm with you, if it feels like it's not wanting to give, then its best to just pull the fascia back and remove them that way. no sense in breaking those things just trying to remove them.

[Nameless]

*Update* Added installed pics to original post. They turned out almost exactly body color. Enjoy!

[Beerhunter]

Mine popped out REALLY easy.

[Ace417]

mine didnt want to pop out at all. had to ghetto rig a way to get them out. There was no real easy way to do this with 10 inch rims other than rotate a screwdriver bit from the side with a pair of pliers. worked fine but took forever for one simple bulb

[NastyFX4]

Just did mineeee!!

[Nameless]

Originally Posted by NastyStang113 Just did mineeee!!

But you were so badass with the red accents! Pics?

[NastyFX4]

Originally Posted by NamelessLiar But you were so badass with the red accents! Pics?

I felt all of my other lights were tinted so they stood out. The turn signals are tinted so now the side markers are tinted. I think I've got plenty of Red on the outside though. I've got the Red Calipers, Badges, and the VMP Tuning decals on the 1/4 windows.