[07RoushGT]

My Hayes manual isn't of much help as it speaks of 3 colored links on the timing chains. It says if you don't have these to buy new ones that do. This sounds a little ridiculous to me so I've been looking for other instructions on how to put the car back in time after a tear down. Now I found an online manual that shows 2 colored links on opposite ends of the chains like mine have.

The only thing that throws me off a little is it makes it sound like the cam sprockets should only have one timing mark on each of them, though mine have both the L and R marks on each of them. From what I can gather the LH (drivers side) cam sprocket should be set so the colored link on the chain lines up with the L and the RH (passenger side) cam sprocket should be set so the colored link on the chain lines up with the R.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as its getting nice out here and the cars been sitting since winter torn apart. I'm just waiting to make sure I absolutely have the timing correct so I can proceed and finish it up....

[jbenevides89]

To Install:

Install the camshaft phaser sprockets and new camshaft phaser bolts finger tight.
CAUTION
Be careful not the damage the camshaft phaser sprocket assemblies. Use hand tools to remove the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly or damage may occur to the camshaft or camshaft phaser unit.

Using the camshaft sprocket holding tool, tighten the camshaft phaser sprocket bolts in 2 steps;
Step 1: Tighten to 30 ft-lb (40 Nm)
Step 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees
Install the crankshaft sprocket, making sure the flange faces forward.
Rotate the crankshaft to position the crankshaft sprocket timing mark in the 6 o'clock position.
Inspect the timing chain tensioners. Install new tensioners as necessary.
Compress the tensioner plunger, using a vise.
Install a retaining clip on the tensioner to hold the plunger in during installation.
Remove the tensioner from the vise.
If the copper links are not visible, mark one link on one end and one link on the other end and use as timing marks.

Install the timing chain guides. Tighten the bolts to 89 in-lbs (10 Nm).
Install the lower end of the left (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.
NOTE: Make sure the upper half of the timing chain is below the tensioner arm dowel.

Install the left timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing mark on the sprocket is aligned with the marked chain link.
NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.

Install the left timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the chain tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
Remove the retaining clip from the left timing chain tensioner.
Install the right timing chain on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Make sure the marks are aligned. The right camshaft sprocket will be stamped with one of the timing marks shown.

The right camshaft sprocket will be stamped with one of the marks shown




Install the right timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the chain tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
Remove the retaining clip from the right timing chain tensioner.
Verify correct alignment of all timing marks.
Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the engine to position the camshaft lobes at base circle to install the roller followers.

Using the spring compressor, install all of the camshaft roller followers. Lubricate the roller followers with clean engine oil prior to installation.
Install the engine front cover.





Hope this helps, sorry the pics wont show up. all it shows it a sprocket with 3 different types of timing marks that may be on it: a line, a line with an R, and an R with an arrow on top. all of them show the copper link on the mark.

[07RoushGT]

Nope, doesn't really help but thanks. That's pretty much the same thing my book says but my question is more with the timing marks on the cam sprockets themselves. My cam sprockets both have a L and R with an arrow on both of them. The book doesn't speak of this and makes it sound like the LH (drivers side) should only have the L and the RH ( passenger side) should have an R, OR, or an O on it...

[eleanor08]

You are 100 percent right, the cam sprockets have BOTH L and R. And like you said, the L is used for the drivers side, and R is used for the passanger side.

I just did cam's, and for peace of mind I pulled my front cover to verify my timing too..

I have a few links Ill post at the end here to help you.

My timing chains did have a "blue" colored link at each end of them. The way your supposed to do it, is to get the crank shaft at number one TDC, another words, get the "key slot" on the crank shaft pointing to the number one cyc. Number one is the first cyc on the passenger side. You have to watch out to make sure your not (180) off, just make sure that the cam shaft lobes for number one, aren't engaging any of the valves.. Once the crank is in the right spot, look at the bottom of your crankshaft sprocket, there should be a mark on it, like an indent.. This should be point down, 6 o'clock position.. Now look at your passenger side cam sprocket, note the position of the "R", you should have equal number of links on each side from those two marks. The book tells you to pull your chain off and pull it tight so you have two links farthest apart. Then mark those links, and then get those two links on each of the timing marks. What I did was count, I didnt' want to pull my chains off. So I counted to make sure I had equal number of links in between the two timing marks. As it turned out, my "blue" link that was marked from the factory was 4 links from each timing mark. Four past the "R", and four past the mark on the crank sprocket.

Note, you do the same to check the drivers side as well.. Only on that side, you use the "L"..

Here is some usefull info.. If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call and Ill help answer your questions. (612)-819-7182..

Timing the 4.6L SOHC Engine
This shows you how to do it. This is an older 4.6 that doesn't have the Vairable Cam Timing, and the cam sprockets do not have the "L" and "R". but its the same concept.

Comcast.net - Email currently unavailable
This link shows you the marks..

Another note, if you pull the front cover to check this, you DO NOT NEED the seal puller tool.

[DiMora]

Originally Posted by eleanor08 You are 100 percent right, the cam sprockets have BOTH L and R. And like you said, the L is used for the drivers side, and R is used for the passanger side. I just did cam's, and for peace of mind I pulled my front cover to verify my timing too.. I have a few links Ill post at the end here to help you. My timing chains did have a "blue" colored link at each end of them. The way your supposed to do it, is to get the crank shaft at number one TDC, another words, get the "key slot" on the crank shaft pointing to the number one cyc. Number one is the first cyc on the passenger side. You have to watch out to make sure your not (180) off, just make sure that the cam shaft lobes for number one, aren't engaging any of the valves.. Once the crank is in the right spot, look at the bottom of your crankshaft sprocket, there should be a mark on it, like an indent.. This should be point down, 6 o'clock position.. Now look at your passenger side cam sprocket, note the position of the "R", you should have equal number of links on each side from those two marks. The book tells you to pull your chain off and pull it tight so you have two links farthest apart. Then mark those links, and then get those two links on each of the timing marks. What I did was count, I didnt' want to pull my chains off. So I counted to make sure I had equal number of links in between the two timing marks. As it turned out, my "blue" link that was marked from the factory was 4 links from each timing mark. Four past the "R", and four past the mark on the crank sprocket. Note, you do the same to check the drivers side as well.. Only on that side, you use the "L".. Here is some usefull info.. If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call and Ill help answer your questions. (612)-819-7182.. Timing the 4.6L SOHC Engine This shows you how to do it. This is an older 4.6 that doesn't have the Vairable Cam Timing, and the cam sprockets do not have the "L" and "R". but its the same concept. Comcast.net - Email currently unavailable This link shows you the marks.. Another note, if you pull the front cover to check this, you DO NOT NEED the seal puller tool.

Awesome link! Reps!

The second link, however...

[eleanor08]

I wonder why the second link didn't work, I get it to open on mine.. The second link was just something that showed the "L" and "R" marks along with the crank mark.

When I get home I will put a few more links up, I have them saved on the home computer.

I wasn't 100 percent sure that I didnt slip a chain when I did my cam's, and since I had time, I pulled the front cover just to make sure. I did get lucky and everything was in place. If you need instructions on pulling the front cover, I can help with that too..

One thing the manual said I needed the "front seal puller" tool for doing the front cover, I bought one from Etool Cart, and as it turned out, I didn't need it, I guess you only need it if you plan on replacing the crankshaft seal. Anyway, I sent mine back, it was a 160.00 tool.. ugh..

BTW, the front cover isn't bad to pull at all, don't be afraid of doing it. Some people online said it would be a PITA, but I didn't think so. Just rememeber to put some silicone in the area's it tells you to, and you will be fine.. No leaks!!!

If your pulling the front cover, and you where thinking about putting Under Drive Pulleys on, now would be the time to do it, since all that comes off anyway...

[DiMora]

Originally Posted by eleanor08 I wonder why the second link didn't work, I get it to open on mine.. The second link was just something that showed the "L" and "R" marks along with the crank mark. When I get home I will put a few more links up, I have them saved on the home computer. I wasn't 100 percent sure that I didnt slip a chain when I did my cam's, and since I had time, I pulled the front cover just to make sure. I did get lucky and everything was in place. If you need instructions on pulling the front cover, I can help with that too.. One thing the manual said I needed the "front seal puller" tool for doing the front cover, I bought one from Etool Cart, and as it turned out, I didn't need it, I guess you only need it if you plan on replacing the crankshaft seal. Anyway, I sent mine back, it was a 160.00 tool.. ugh.. BTW, the front cover isn't bad to pull at all, don't be afraid of doing it. Some people online said it would be a PITA, but I didn't think so. Just remember to put some silicone in the area's it tells you to, and you will be fine.. No leaks!!! If your pulling the front cover, and you where thinking about putting Under Drive Pulleys on, now would be the time to do it, since all that comes off anyway...

This thread is already awesome...if you wouldn't mind Eleanor08, would you post the timing cover information you have as well...perhaps Zippy can sticky this and it can be a great reference for guys doing cams. Mega reps for you.

[eleanor08]

Let's try this, It opens as a word doc.

Like I said, I didn't need any special tools, you might need a tool to reinstall the harmonic balancer. My Steeda UDP's came with a bolt just for installing the balancer. I did buy a cheap 3-jaw puller to get the old balancer off..

One thing, you do need to replace the crankshaft bolt, they are one time use bolts, like the cam phaser bolts.

Mustang GT OEM Ford Crank Bolt (05-10)
Crankshaft bolt.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...er-removal.doc
Here is the front cover removal instructions.

[eleanor08]

I hope it all works out, and like I said, feel free to call me if you have question's, I lost a few nights sleep worrying over my timing.

Thank you for the Reps!!

[BlueDevil]

Originally Posted by eleanor08 I did buy a cheap 3-jaw puller to get the old balancer off..

FYI
Most major auto parts retailers have a tool rental program. Pay to rent the tool, then you get a full refund as long as you have it back in the time allotted. I've rented many balancer pullers (I'm eventually going to be at the auto parts store anyway, right?)...all free.

[psycho bob]

when i did my heads/cams i just printed out the pages i needed from the online ford manual. followed the directions in order and checked everything a few times. then had my wife recheck everything again before closing it up.

Ford Service Manuals - REMOVAL

[THUMPR]

Great thread thanks to all for the info.

[07RoushGT]

Originally Posted by eleanor08 I wonder why the second link didn't work, I get it to open on mine.. The second link was just something that showed the "L" and "R" marks along with the crank mark. When I get home I will put a few more links up, I have them saved on the home computer. I wasn't 100 percent sure that I didnt slip a chain when I did my cam's, and since I had time, I pulled the front cover just to make sure. I did get lucky and everything was in place. If you need instructions on pulling the front cover, I can help with that too.. One thing the manual said I needed the "front seal puller" tool for doing the front cover, I bought one from Etool Cart, and as it turned out, I didn't need it, I guess you only need it if you plan on replacing the crankshaft seal. Anyway, I sent mine back, it was a 160.00 tool.. ugh.. BTW, the front cover isn't bad to pull at all, don't be afraid of doing it. Some people online said it would be a PITA, but I didn't think so. Just rememeber to put some silicone in the area's it tells you to, and you will be fine.. No leaks!!! If your pulling the front cover, and you where thinking about putting Under Drive Pulleys on, now would be the time to do it, since all that comes off anyway...

The front cover is indeed already off. I had the engine tore down a good bit as something went through my Super Charger and number 1 and 8 cylinders. I just got my heads back from the machinist a few days ago along with all the other replacement parts I need. I just wanted to be absolutely sure I got this part right....

Thanks for the help! Reps!

[07RoushGT]

Update: The machinist checked over the heads cleaning them all up, glass beading them, checking them for cracks etc. He replaced the 3 bent valves, 3 cracked valve guides, checked all the spring pressure etc..... He gridded all the valve seats, replaced all the valve guide seals, and also shaved five thousandths off the mating surface. Last Sunday very early in the morning the car was all together and it fired right up like a champ. Sounds perfect, runs awesome again!

Come Monday I will be ordering a McLeod RST Twin Disc clutch as mine is starting to slip. I'm also looking to finally get some gauges ordered and installed along with a few other smaller mods. I'm looking at a shorty antenna, some center stripes up and over the top, and possibly a 3rd link upgrade for that damn wheel hop!