Clutch Install

Modern_Muscle · June 26th, 2007, 05:01 PM

I checked on this Centerforce Dual Friction I got, and it comes with the pressure plate and disc, also needs a new slave cylinder and a bearing I think when its installed, but says I need the flywheel re-surfaced or a new flywheel. I have 37k on my car. Is that really needed, or will a good cleaning get it alright. If I need a new one, im just going to wait for an aluminum flywheel and aluminum d/s for total weight savings...

any opinions or comments?

MustangMatt96GT · June 26th, 2007, 07:40 PM

Get the new flywheel because if not you will tearing your car apart a lot quicker!! You have it apart and it will benefit you to replace it now! If you had less than 10K miles I would say your safe, but get the new flywheel! Otherwise you will get hot spots that will be horrible!

GT/CS · June 27th, 2007, 07:51 AM

What kind of friction surface did you go with, kevlar?

1FastFox · June 27th, 2007, 12:33 PM

When it comes to clutches I love SPEC ( specifically stage 2 ). Definitally dont go throwing a new clutch in with resurfacing/replacing your flywheel. You wil be hating yourself in a month for not doing it. As for the bearing, you dont need to replace your throwout bearing, just be sure to lube the shit out of it. Your slave cylinder should be fine too.

Modern_Muscle · June 27th, 2007, 02:13 PM

Originally Posted by GT/CS

What kind of friction surface did you go with, kevlar?

I think so, I got it off a guy that had it on for only around 100-125 miles, then had to remove it cause his knee went out on him, and he went to stock to sell the car I beleive.

The puck side is a carbon composite, I just looked it up.
Part Number df611679

1FastFox · June 27th, 2007, 02:52 PM

Not to bring you down about your new clutch. But thats not really something I would put in my car used.... Might want to look into a new one...

Regency 2007 · June 27th, 2007, 03:23 PM

go ahead and get an aluminum fly wheel, also make ure you break your clutch in good or you will just be buying another one in a short amount of time (500 miles with alot of stop and goes and nothing over 3,000 RPM)

Modern_Muscle · June 27th, 2007, 05:39 PM

well, i looked at it before I bought it, and the damn thing looks brand new, i mean lightly dirty, but perfect, thats the only reason I bought it.

June 26th, 2007, 05:01 PM	#1
Modern_Muscle Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 1,347 iTrader: 1 reviews	Clutch Install I checked on this Centerforce Dual Friction I got, and it comes with the pressure plate and disc, also needs a new slave cylinder and a bearing I think when its installed, but says I need the flywheel re-surfaced or a new flywheel. I have 37k on my car. Is that really needed, or will a good cleaning get it alright. If I need a new one, im just going to wait for an aluminum flywheel and aluminum d/s for total weight savings... any opinions or comments? __________________ 1998 Trans Am WS6. (Anti Venom) Forged 347, stage 3 T56, and a 76mm Turbo... 659rwhp @ 13.5# ~725rwhp @ 15.5# Meth, C16, and 20psi coming soon 03 Z71 (H/C/I/E/T)...sold 2005 GT, Full Bolt-Ons...12's... GONE

June 26th, 2007, 07:40 PM	#2
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT 10.76 @ 122 with d/a of 8365 ft Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 10,168 iTrader: 3 reviews	Get the new flywheel because if not you will tearing your car apart a lot quicker!! You have it apart and it will benefit you to replace it now! If you had less than 10K miles I would say your safe, but get the new flywheel! Otherwise you will get hot spots that will be horrible! __________________ RIP Travis Billings Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions Blown Small Block Ford with a hole in the block. 9.5 Dart Block 400 CI being saved for. Just because you can fuck a cactus doesn't mean you should. Never Lift Racecars

June 27th, 2007, 07:51 AM	#3
GT/CS Regular Join Date: May 2007 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 122 iTrader: 0 reviews	What kind of friction surface did you go with, kevlar? __________________ Ford Racing heads, Comp stage III cams, 4.10's, Steeda delete plates, SLP long tube headers, Custom 3'' X pipe, Magna flow 3" Magnapacks, Airaid CAI, SCT XCAL 2 93 tune, Steeda front and rear swaybars, Dynotech aluminum driveshaft, HTP TB spacer

June 27th, 2007, 05:39 PM	#8
Modern_Muscle Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 1,347 iTrader: 1 reviews	well, i looked at it before I bought it, and the damn thing looks brand new, i mean lightly dirty, but perfect, thats the only reason I bought it. __________________ 1998 Trans Am WS6. (Anti Venom) Forged 347, stage 3 T56, and a 76mm Turbo... 659rwhp @ 13.5# ~725rwhp @ 15.5# Meth, C16, and 20psi coming soon 03 Z71 (H/C/I/E/T)...sold 2005 GT, Full Bolt-Ons...12's... GONE

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June 27th, 2007, 12:33 PM	#4
1FastFox Skirt Chasing Philanderer Kit Car/Ducati/Explorer Nike Fast Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 8,977 iTrader: 4 reviews	When it comes to clutches I love SPEC ( specifically stage 2 ). Definitally dont go throwing a new clutch in with resurfacing/replacing your flywheel. You wil be hating yourself in a month for not doing it. As for the bearing, you dont need to replace your throwout bearing, just be sure to lube the shit out of it. Your slave cylinder should be fine too.

June 27th, 2007, 02:52 PM	#6
1FastFox Skirt Chasing Philanderer Kit Car/Ducati/Explorer Nike Fast Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 8,977 iTrader: 4 reviews	Not to bring you down about your new clutch. But thats not really something I would put in my car used.... Might want to look into a new one...

June 27th, 2007, 03:23 PM	#7
Regency 2007 Hardcore Enthusiast F-150 FX4 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Memphrica Posts: 1,157 iTrader: 0 reviews	go ahead and get an aluminum fly wheel, also make ure you break your clutch in good or you will just be buying another one in a short amount of time (500 miles with alot of stop and goes and nothing over 3,000 RPM)

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