[SUPERCOUPE]

CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE! GETTING A KENNE BELL , WHAT SHOUD I REPLACE TO MAKE SURE NOTHING BREAKS . I HAVE 4.10 GEARS, SUB FRME CONNECTORS .GETTING REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS (BILLIT) WHAT ELSE? THX.

[Regency 2007]

your clutch is guaranteed to go out in about 2 months at the most so you will need a centerforce stage III clutch and an aluminum fly wheel, you also need to have a perfect/very conservative tune done by a professional!

do you have all the fuel system requirements like injectors, boost a pump... have the right spark plugs... always need to carry an extra supercharger belt incase you shred one going down the road! Dont go over 475 Rear wheel horsepower

[Emay]

I wouldn't replace that clutch until it's know to be going bad. I'm running my procharger at 11 lbs numerous trips to the track (11 to be exact with a minimum of 4 passes each time) since April along with lots of street driving and of course lots of John Force burnouts and still have yet to have any problems with the clutch.

If your going to be launching the car hard, add an adjustable UCA, one piece drive shaft, think about stronger axles, and girdled diff cover if you didn't do it with the gears, but other than that your on the right path.

[Vabeachmustang]

Originally Posted by Emay I wouldn't replace that clutch until it's know to be going bad. I'm running my procharger at 11 lbs numerous trips to the track (11 to be exact with a minimum of 4 passes each time) since April along with lots of street driving and of course lots of John Force burnouts and still have yet to have any problems with the clutch. If your going to be launching the car hard, add an adjustable UCA, one piece drive shaft, think about stronger axles, and girdled diff cover if you didn't do it with the gears, but other than that your on the right path.

+1. My clutch is holding up fine with the same setup. Wait for it to go out.

[MaverickMLFD371]

upper control arm would be helpful to the combination of the lower control arms to prevent wheel hop.

an axle brace would be a great investment to stiffen that rear end.

[Grabber523]

Your clutch will be fine...the tune that comes with it is about as good as your gonna get (verified on dyno 11.0 to 11.5 a/f and smooth)...put it on and drive it. Rear suspention will be hit or miss, some need control arms for wheel hop...even running MT's at the track, I didn't need them. Watch the 2 piece driveshaft...that's gonna be one of the first things to go. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU PUT THE ALTERNATOR CABLE BACK ON!!! Mine got too close to the water manifold under the alternator itself and arced THROUGH the factory rubber boot...which, of course Ford won't cover because I had to touch it to install the blower...blew the fusible link (gay useless part) on the battery cable and the alternator (see previous statement)...anybody have a spare? That 15 cent part is gonna end up costing me close to a grand...

[Grabber523]

Just a comment on the axle girdle...Kenne Bell has tested the bone-stock 8.8" to over 1000 h.p. (Shelby test mule) without any sort of upgraded girdle cover...easiest thing to do? Save up about 2 grand and replace stuff only when it breaks... OH...and Autolite HT0 plugs...you need those...everything else is in the kit...