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post #1 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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exhaust hell.

I'm writing this more of an FYI help to some of you that run into what I ran into last night. And to prevent some of the problems caused by my car's previous owner.

Lesson Summary: don't mount your exhaust too low, don't cross thread bolts, ***always use some type of anti-seize on bolts for your exaust ... and brakes, and anything else that gets hot as hell or rusts a lot***, plan ahead... sometimes you need a special tool or parts that you didn't intend on.

When I bought my mustang it had Pypes hi flow cats on it. Up until now it was too cold to get the initiative to either clean out my garage or want to work outside. It has a bassani offroad x-pipe which is modular in that you can drop sections from it and put in cats or run it cat-less.

Well, this seemed to be an easy task but my lack of experience removing this particular exhaust setup and some corrosion made this take forever.

my particular pipes overlap instead of having flanges. I prefer flanges. Combined with a little rust, these overlapped pipes can be hard to separate. So I built something to help.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qtr3ercqod...2004.36.08.jpg

I used some angle Iron, some exhaust clamps a buddy left when I welded his exhaust, some all thread, washers, and two nuts. it's ugly but works great. you can set it up to separate the pipes by positioning the nut to push the two clamps apart while turning the nut counter clockwise. You can also pull the pipes together by putting the nut on as shown and turning the nut clockwise. I thought I was so ingenious until i found this today.

Summit Racing® E-Z Pull Exhaust Pipe Separator Tools SUM-900652 - SummitRacing.com

that one doesn't fit 2.5" pipes but they make one that does for $70. who cares, you can make one yourself now for less than $10.


Why did I remove the cats? well, I live in OK and we don't have inspections. And I date a hippie that I love to spite. And... my car wasn't running right. The tune for my car is set up for no cats. that may have been the problem but this might have been also...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n5q8s0ej0z...2004.53.18.jpg

and

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qlqpvhzai1...2004.53.37.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8yr2ocxmza...2004.53.30.jpg


Finally, the night could have been much worse but I got a little lucky. to get room for separating my pipes, I removed my pipes from the headers. The previous owner said there was a stripped bolt on the exhaust causing a leak. I had assumed the stripped bolt was on one of the clamps which would be an easy fix. I was wrong. It was on the header. The guy had cross-threaded the nut. Luckily, he didnt get it all the way on so when it broke off, I had just enough thread to still get my nut on after i cleaned up the threads. I will fix this later with new long tubes, but for now this works...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwezqqqkqn...2004.24.30.jpg

Oh, one last lesson, Pypes exaust clamps have a shaped piece that keeps the pipe from bulging and leaking where the clamp comes together. This piece is ceramic so it will deteriorate over time. I now have two leaking clamps that I have to replace because the pieces fell apart when i loosened my exaust.


I hope this helps a few of you.

I can write a how to on building the exaust tool i made. I feel it is pretty straightforward if you have a welder and a few other tools and look at the picture.


2006 Mustang GT
Pacesetter Ceramic L/T's
Pacesetter H-pipe
FR hot rod cams
FR Intake manifold
FR500 exaust
Hurst Competition Plus Short throw.
JLT CAI

2002 F-150

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post #2 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 06:37 PM
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That pipe separator is Bawss Edit: the one you made

I use anti-seize on everything that doesn't call for threadlocker.

I installed an engine into my lawnmower, used anti-seize on the bolts holding it to the frame. I have anti-seize on my wheel studs. The list goes on...

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post #3 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 06:40 PM
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^Should not use anti-seize on wheel studs.
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post #4 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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I always wondered about the wheel studs. I've seen threadlocker and anti seize on them. never knew which it was supposed to have.


2006 Mustang GT
Pacesetter Ceramic L/T's
Pacesetter H-pipe
FR hot rod cams
FR Intake manifold
FR500 exaust
Hurst Competition Plus Short throw.
JLT CAI

2002 F-150

Sold:
2001 Mustang GT (miss this one)
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post #5 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Supposed to have nothing, if they're really rusty, you can use a light spray like WD-40 or similar, but that's it.
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post #6 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 07:56 PM
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So be it. Might eat the words if you thread lock your lug nuts.


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post #7 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 07:59 PM
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*facepalm* didn't see where you said nothing on studs. Didn't edit b/c you can't on auto guide app, so don't flame me.


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post #8 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 08:04 PM
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Lol, no worries man, I'd rather have anti seize than Loctite, lol.
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post #9 of 9 Old January 8th, 2013, 08:32 PM
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True dat. My dad and I use anti-seize on so much stuff, we have used 80% of one of the 8 oz bottles. Never had a problem.

Also, love the avatar, pony

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