[silverstang05]

Anyone know where i can find instructions on how to install the longtubes?
Thanks

[cooper]

These are for shorties but, you get the point. These are what I used the first time.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar...haust_headers/

Hope that helps some.
Cooper

[ChrisJ]

That install will help you...

Its pretty mcuh the same thing as the longtube install...

You will need 02 extensions...

[RStrick0352]

if you have access to a lift it sould help you out tons. I lifted mine and supprted the engine at the oil pan with a transmission jack and it didnt hurt the pan ate all. Lift it enough to take pressure off the engine mounts and remove them, both the flanges and actual hydra mounts. This would also be a good time if to install a set of heavy duty engine mounts i.e. steeda, upr, or whatever company when you go to put the mounts back on. Anyway once the mounts are out of the way you'll be able to remove the factory manifolds no problem. After the stock manifolds are out of the way ( you should have purchases some locking header bolts like Stage 8 brand) you'll need to remove the studs from the heads, these come out fairly easy just make sure your using the right sized socket. You'll also need to remove the dipstick tube by unscrewing the one bolt that holds it and just pulling it out, its only held in with an oring after that so it has a little friction but not much. You then need to remove the steering rod at the rack and pinion and also at where it exits the fire wall. Take care when reinstalling this you'll need to pry the part that connects at the firewall a little to get it to slip back on, also the piece that comes out of the firewal can get pushed in and out and if pushed too far in can be a bitch to get back out. Hopefully your headers come with a new gasket cuz the stocks are a 2 piece and are a bitch to control while trying to put on the headers bit it can be done trust me. Now all you do is reverse the process, the headers will probly require a little manipulation to get them up in there but once they're on dont forget about the dipstick and all the sensor connections. These instructions may not be exactly what some companies say but its what worked for me and should work for you. Let me know how it goes.

[silverstang05]

Thanks guys! I'll be using those instructions when i goto install my headers. Now if my headers didn't come with o2 extensions or new gaskets i can pick those up at an autopart store or performance shop right? O and does anyone know if there is an x pipe that will bolt up to MAC longtubes?

[konzy]

Some of the instructions tell you to just remove certain exhaust manifold studs. I tried this and ended up having to remove them all. You'll have allot more room to work and less chance of scratcning the headers or the chassis if you get them all out of the way.

[ChrisJ]

I would run a MAC Prochamber if i was you...It would sound awesome...

You will have to order the 02 extensions...

BBK 02 extensions is what you want...

The headers should come with gaskets but you can order some nice soft metal header gaskets if you want to make sure you get a good seal....Also Stage 8 header bolts would be a good idea IMHo...They dont back out like some other bolts...

[silverstang05]

Im trying to save money and im installing the longtubes myself with a friend than driving it to an exhaust shop that is gonna finish the x pipe for $250 installed. I think the headers come with gaskets i dont see why not and do you have a link to where i can buy the stage 8 header bolts?

[silverstang05]

Im trying to decide now whether or not to buy the MAC chambered xpipe or go custom on the x pipe. The only problem is i dont know if the tune brenspeed gave to me for the custom o/r x pipe is going to be affected if i get the MAC chambered o/r x pipe. Also i dont know the perofrmance/difference between the 2 if someone wants to explain.

[ChrisJ]

Originally Posted by silverstang05 Im trying to save money and im installing the longtubes myself with a friend than driving it to an exhaust shop that is gonna finish the x pipe for $250 installed. I think the headers come with gaskets i dont see why not and do you have a link to where i can buy the stage 8 header bolts?

I always see the Stage 8 header bolts on ebay...Just search it on there...

It will not matter if you go with a chambered it will be fine...All he did was turn off the rear 02 sensors...

[silverstang05]

Ok well when i get it installed i will post up some sound clips for you all

[silverstang05]

I just talked to my friend today and he is trying to convince me that longtubes are not worth it because they see very minimal gain. Is that true? I just got the headers in on monday and dont want to send them back. What are the average gains from longtubes?

[Grabber523]

20-25 h.p. with N/A, 35-45 h.p. with supercharger and mild boost...it's the shorty headers that really aren't worth the money...Get the Longtubes!!!

[RStrick0352]

You'll definitltely see feel the gains from longtubes, and me personally the improvement in sound wa worth the money and hassle. Trust me, your gonna love them.

[Grabber523]

That's what i'm doing next, no doubt...see if I can hit 475 h.p. at the wheels...

[catchtheroadrunner]

Originally Posted by silverstang05 I just talked to my friend today and he is trying to convince me that longtubes are not worth it because they see very minimal gain. Is that true? I just got the headers in on monday and dont want to send them back. What are the average gains from longtubes?

In "Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno", on page 187 (test 6 -'05GT), the writers determined in their dyno runs that JBA (the only brand tested) gained 9hp at 3,600rpms, and 21 tq at 3,100 rpms. eh!!!

[catchtheroadrunner]

and that's an engine dyno!!!

[Grabber523]

Yeah, okay...here's the "official" car part disclaimer: All numbers are based on ideal situations and factors such as temperature, humidity and barometric pressure, heat soak, whether or not the car was strapped to the dyno properly, If the timing was locked, what octane they were using if the timing was locked, whether or not the vehicle was tuned for the parts, what other parts they were running in combination with the headers, etc...a stock GT has 300 h.p. every time you start it up? Nope. Who knows why they only got 9 h.p. and 21 ft/lb of torque gains? Granted, it sounds like the power was right in the sweet spot. Do you have a link to the article, cuz i'm not spending $1500 if it's not worth it...but I'm sure that it will be worth it based on other's experiences...

[06RedfireGT]

On project MILF by MM&FF they took .2ths off of the et by intalling just LT headers.

[catchtheroadrunner]

Originally Posted by Grabber523 Yeah, okay...here's the "official" car part disclaimer: All numbers are based on ideal situations and factors such as temperature, humidity and barometric pressure, heat soak, whether or not the car was strapped to the dyno properly, If the timing was locked, what octane they were using if the timing was locked, whether or not the vehicle was tuned for the parts, what other parts they were running in combination with the headers, etc...a stock GT has 300 h.p. every time you start it up? Nope. Who knows why they only got 9 h.p. and 21 ft/lb of torque gains? Granted, it sounds like the power was right in the sweet spot. Do you have a link to the article, cuz i'm not spending $1500 if it's not worth it...but I'm sure that it will be worth it based on other's experiences...

I know what you're saying Grabber, but it's still a better way to provide input than "I read in someone else's thread...". And sure, all dyno run's are different, but how much can an author credibly fudge his numbers while maintaining his future rep. There are more details. An electric water pump, spark management. But the modifications were present on both before and after tests of the JBL long tubes. The engine made 356hp at the crank with stock manifolds, and 357chp with the LTH's. as you said, the power gain was in the sweet spot, at 3600rpm the gap between stock and lth's was 9hp. The torque numbers are 384@4200 stock, and 392@4300 with lth's. The gap, however, was 21ftlbs @3100.

The source is the book that I quoted before. It's at Barns and Noble.