[07stanggt]

I talked to a perfomance shop yesterday about what I wanted to do with my car. I was thinking stroker kit, heads and maybe cams. The guy told me the stroker kits were good but told me that he thinks I should go big bore instead to get what I want. He said it cost more but he thinks it will give me what im looking for. I forget the numbers he used but he said I could bore and sleeve it to 304. and with ported heads he said I could pick up at least 40hp and great tq maybe 30. He said with the stroker I wont get as much torque. and the advantage of not stroking it keeps down on friction of the piston traveling the extra distance. He said with a mild cam i should pick up another 25hp. He said the factory crank was already forged on the manual mustang. He also said if im sure i wont want f/i than he would add compression like 11something.

What if i bore and stroke it. he said that could take me to 320. but he would just do big bore.

I dont know much about this stuff to tell you the truth.

What do you guys think of that. The compression? I told him i still want to drivability, nothing radical he said it would be fine with a mild cam. I thought you coulnt run that much compression on unleaded pump gas? Am i stupid?

He said he has heard great things about frpp cnc ported heads but he will ask around and we can either go that way or just send them out to Foxlake to have them ported? The down time im not worried about cuase i plan on having this done when i go to Iraq. They are suppose to get back to me with a price in a couple days.

So what do you guys think of what he says he would do? What do you think the power gains would be? and what about drivability, should i step up the cam a little im thinking comp stage III. Could this cause a lot of problems? And the big question what do you think the cost is going to be.

Please don't preach to me about superchargers. I know i could make more power with less money so on so forth. I just want to go this way.

[06RedfireGT]

I wouldn't go with a big bore because I think that is stretching the cylinder walls too thin. Do you want it to rev higher? I would say the BBR Stage II cams, the Comps are too mild IMO.

[Trick Tuners]

I would not run 11:1 compression for a street car on pump gas. 10:1 tops. The BB stroker is a cool combo, especially if staying NA and going for some good power. If its one or the other, most people seem to go with the BB. Add some nice stage 2 heads and cams and you have one bad ass NA motor. Stage 3 cams can sometimes have cold start issues if you live in a cold place.

[WAR-PARTY]

OK old school here, I started building back in the 70s
1. Bore: a larger bore will give you a faster revving engine, with less torque. it will allow the motor to run art a higher RPM with out coming apart, this on one of the reasons the 327 was the motor of it day combine it with a light body, and run it up to about 9500 rpm. I had good luck with the Ford 390 also a larger bore then stroke motor. I wary of sleeved motors, that is the old school in me. I have seen them drop the sleeve and have hot spots in that caused the motor to shit the bed, but things may have progressed to technology that overcomes those two concerns. High revving motors can easily take tall gears 4.10 and above but you still lose gas mileage, and on wet streets they are not fun.
2. Stroke: a stroked motor will give you more torque but the inertia caused by the longer stroke, limits the amount of high end RPMs the motor can take. If you have a heavy car the stroked motor and right set of rear gears will get you off the line in a hurry. But don't expect to go much above 6000 RPM
3. Compression: back in the day 11/1 was mild the 327 350hp in the old Vetts had 11/1 from the factory (ok for you ol'timers it also had the F.I. heads 2.02 in 1.75 out and a Dontov 30/30 solid lifter cam) but this requires high octane gas and I would not recommend it in today's motors, at least for the street. Stay with 8/1 or 8.5/1 ; this is important if you decide to go with a power adder at some later point.
By all means it your going to take the motor down, go back with forged components

I won't comment on what you guy told ya but establishing a relationship with a good builder or speed shop, saves you a lot of problems and some money.


I prefer a nearly 'balanced' motor that is one that has nearly the same stroke distance as the diameter of the piston, with slightly shorter stroke then that diameter This, set up with a heavy iron fly wheel, and for the 3.73 gears is a good all round set up. The cam's you chose are dependent of what torque curve you are looking at and you top end rpm. And yes the more radical the cam the more reliability/streetablity issues you have. Plus you need to do your home work on fuel delivery. After choosing the cams then you need to figure out what size injectors Will the fuel pump feed them you'll need and headers. Then go back and look at it all over again. The last thing you want is to go lean at about the 1000 FT mark down track!

I plan a motors out on paper, my current 4.6 took me about a year to engineer, it's full race and there were a lot factors that street cars don't have involved

Hope this helps, my parting thought is "Plan your build, and build your plan" And "Do it once right or do it over and over again"

Have Fun W>P>

[07stanggt]

You said the opposite that he said. He said i would get more tq from a big bore than a longer stroke.

[WAR-PARTY]

Like I said I won't comment on what he said, me I talk the talk and walk the walk....but in 1971 I had a 1964 327 Chevy II that ran low 11s and tached out at 9000 RPM and ate Muncie 4 speeds like candy!

[07stanggt]

Originally Posted by WAR-PARTY Like I said I won't comment on what he said, me I talk the talk and walk the walk....but in 1971 I had a 1964 327 Chevy II that ran low 11s and tached out at 9000 RPM and ate Muncie 4 speeds like candy!

I appreciate your response. So if you dont mind? what would you suggest. I want a n/a car that sounds mean with about 400/400 at the wheels. Stroker or bore? I like the sounds of a high reving engine, im more of a road racer than a drag racing. I just want to keep enough low end torque to smack down any punks in evo's, or camaros at red lights. And i dont have to use this car everyday i have a jeep for a daily driver. although right now i do look for every excuse to drive my stang. I want to mainain drivability to a point, you know what i mean.

[jat]

i believe sutton performance or some other company got 400 n/a on another forum he posted up.. ill search for it late tonight.

[06RedfireGT]

It was BBR

[07stanggt]

yea it was bbr. I beleive they did it with just cams and heads. and the rest of the bolt ons. But the 400 hp was not a streetable tune. They got 386 or something with the streetable tune. So im thinking with more displacement, milder cams then they used and heads. I should able to get close to there. ill take 390

[WAR-PARTY]

Originally Posted by 07stanggt I appreciate your response. So if you dont mind? what would you suggest. I want a n/a car that sounds mean with about 400/400 at the wheels. Stroker or bore? I like the sounds of a high reving engine, im more of a road racer than a drag racing. I just want to keep enough low end torque to smack down any punks in evo's, or camaros at red lights. And i dont have to use this car everyday i have a jeep for a daily driver. although right now i do look for every excuse to drive my stang. I want to mainain drivability to a point, you know what i mean.

You want a very responsive motor for R/R so my choice would be a over bore with the stock stroke. It will give you the response you want coming out of the turns. Also for R/R you will want an aluminum flywheel an aluminum drive shaft to maximize that on the fly response. Your tranny should also support this set up with an ending (5th) gear ratio of .82. Low impendence injectors willalso be of help.

You have a lot of research to do, but that too is the fun part!

The rest is up to you, happy building!

[07 Grabber GT]

Like any decision in life ... you have to define what you want the end result to be. Do you want to stay N/A and maximize HP along with durability? Are you wanting it to be streetable, mostly strip ... realize there is no "a little of everything" ... you have to make decisions and live with them.

If you plan on exceeding the recommended safe limits of the motor you should get the pistons and rods upgraded ... while you're at it have it balanced and all the normal "goodies" put back in the build. For the $$$ I would not recommend the price of cams on this motor compared to the 30HP you will get out of it ... same with the heads.

Most that have searched have found its very difficult to exceed the safe limit on these engines and stay N/A ... and if you get the itch for more CI's you may find its cheaper to swap out your short block for one ready to go from a reputable shop. But if you want more CI and then get the cams and heads to go with it ... you'll be able to purchase a crate motor with that kind of investmet.

But again you have to define what you want out of the motor ... anybody is willing to sell you anything if you leave it up to someone else. Me personally, I wouldn't spend that kind of time and $$$ on a N/A motor compared to the price of a S/C.