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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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C&L Racer
Well I got my C&L Racer CAI on my doorstep today. I have a few quick questions though. Does it matter if I use the rubber hose??? Because I see some people used that, while I just reconnected that green tab silicone hose. Also, is your car suppose to run like shit at first??? Because mine didn't, but I also just installed the 87 Brenspeed tune for now, until my gas is close to empty, then I will refill with 93, and retune it with Brenspeeds 93 tune. I will say this, I didn't feel any loss at all down low like some people have claimed, again i'm not sure if that has to do with using the 87 or not. As far as gains, when in first gear once your above 2,000 rpms, it rips through the rpms like crazy, and 2nd-5th it rips through all the rpms pretty damn quick. Props to Brenspeed, and C&L. Now i'm just wondering, will I feel any difference with the 93 tune???
What it looked like before: ![]() What looks like now = friggin awsome:
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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93 will put you in your seat for sure... Your car would have ran like shit and bogged out if you had no tune for the C&L other then that you would be good... I have the Racer also... I love it, actually looking to clean my filter some how... Not sure how yet lol...
-Edit Do you still have stock axel backs... I felt that when I remove my A/T axel backs and went back to stock I got a huge mid range V-tech sort of feeling... With the other axel backs it wasnt as noticable with more power low end...
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![]() Mods: Some Intake Shit... Last edited by joeice14; May 20th, 2008 at 10:56 PM. |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
2005 GT
11.55@118.48
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 722
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Nice!
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![]() 12.52@108.23/ 11.55@118.48 100 SHOT |
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#4 |
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Top Down, Crunked Up
2005 Mustang GT
Fast Enough for this old broad
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,530
Blog Entries: 2
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You'll love the 93 tune! Make sure you've cleared your bowels before going out for the first time to test it
lol
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#5 |
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Regular
2005 Mustang GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 277
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I used the existing tube with the green tab. I'm assuming your tune is was provided for the C&L Race CAI?
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Skrapr 2005 Mustang GT (5-spd Manual) FRPP 4.10's Kooks LT's | Kooks Cat'd X C&L Racer CAI Dyno'd | SCT-X3 MGW Shifter | MGW Interior Details Comp XFI SPR Stage-II's |
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#6 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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I can't wait for the 93 tune then, because I already felt a big difference. And I deff love it. I think there is spray you can buy to clean the filter. K&N sells it, but you can use on all filters i'm sure. My axlebacks are not stock, I actually have the Borla Stingers, and a soon to be installed Pypes O/R H-pipe. Well according to Borla & their tests they made, they claim that their axlebacks are suppose to retain the power down low, and also gain up top. Which after having their catback on my 02, and now their axlebacks, I believe it, because I never felt like I lost anything in the low range on either car, and I noticed slight gains up top on both. |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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#9 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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Yes. I'm using a Brenspeed 87 tune until I get close to empty, then after refueling, i'm gonna change over to the 93 tune. I got a 87, 91, and 93. All custom Brenspeed tunes. A++ to them btw, great customer service, and fast shipping.
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#10 | ||
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Top Down, Crunked Up
2005 Mustang GT
Fast Enough for this old broad
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,530
Blog Entries: 2
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#11 |
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Regular
05 MustangGT 422whp417rwt
12.5@109
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 459
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Looks good! What do you use to clean the engine as it looks spotless?
The 93 tune will just rock.
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M90 Roush with 2.49 pulley,Flowmasters axel back,Deep Dish Bullitt Wheel (18x9)Front (18x10), BFG KDWII tires,3.73 gears, BMR LCA, Roush Front bumper with chin spoiler, Cervini M1 hood scoop, power slot rotors, SLP line lock
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#12 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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I won't be able to tell you though, because i'm not gonna bother with the 91, i'm just gonna start using the 93 once I refuel. So I can't wait to see the difference between the 87 & 93. ![]()
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#13 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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Thanks! When washing, waxing and polishing the car itself, I usually only use Meguiars products, although Mothers makes fine products as well. For the engine I use a low strength engine degreaser, and scrub all around gently to shine it up and make sure everythings clean & spotless. You can also use an air compressor first, to remove a good amount of dirt, dust pollun etc..Then just wipe down with a quality engine cleaner. I usually use Terry Towels, or Soft Microfiber cloths, to do the wiping. Oh, and for Chrome parts, just use any Chrome safe polish of your choice. I don't ever really let my engine get dirty though, but if yours needs a real good cleaning, then you will find this here helpful as well: How-to Clean & Detail Your Engine Did you know a detailed engine increases the resale value of your car? It's a well-known fact that people who take the time and effort to detail their engines also take better care of their cars. Mechanics, too, realize that a clean engine belongs to someone who cares for his or her car, and they will take the time to do the repair or service work correctly. Engine detailing is nothing more than cleaning the exterior of the engine and the engine compartment, and applying dressing to protect and beautify the engine. It's very easy to do, and requires no more than 45 minutes to an hour every couple of months. A beautifully detailed engine, like this one, is crisp, sharp and neat. This engine compartment is as tidy as the rest of the car. The attention to detail is excellent, and it shows.ENGINE DETAILING The first step in cleaning your engine is to remove the excess debris that gets trapped in your hood, grille and vent openings. This is particularly true if you live in an area with four seasons. If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dead cats and such. If you don't, a simple hand brush will suffice. Notice the use of a rag on the intake of this 911 engine to protect from water flooding.The next very important step is to prepare your engine for getting wet. You must cover all sensors, the distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential for water accumulation (which could cause a short). Use plastic baggies to cover these items. Be sure to use tape or rubber bands to hold the plastic bags in place. You're only trying to prevent the majority of the water from getting in; it does not need to be watertight. The engine environment should already be waterproof. The baggies are just a precaution. To loosen the grease accumulated on your engine and the engine compartment, start your engine and allow it to warm for a few minutes. The best temperature for cleaning your engine is warm to the touch, but not hot. If you're able to hold your hand to the engine without saying "Ouch," then the temperature is just about right. ![]() Applying Degreaser After warming the engine and protecting sensitive areas, you're ready to apply your engine degreaser. Although they are quick and easy, I warn people against the use of harsh petroleum-based cleaners in the engine compartment. They quickly cut through grease and grime, but they also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what they do to our environment!). As an alternative, use a citrus- or water-based cleaner. My favorite is Autoglym Engine & Machine Cleaner. Use a degreaser on the top side of your engine. Good degreasers are strong enough to cut through the heavy grease and dirt, but some scrubbing is necessary to remove the remaining dirt film.When applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the lower areas and work your way up. This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas. One important thing to remember: the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted surfaces of your car. If you get degreaser overspray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing these areas. When you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grille. I like to spray these areas with water first. Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for 3 to 5 minutes. Do not allow the degreaser to dry on your engine. For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use a brush on the engine and other surfaces. For heavy soil, you can use a long-handled brush (parts brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the degreaser. Use a soft parts cleaning brush get into cracks and around parts. If your engine compartment has a heavy accumulation of dirt, you may need to spray with cleaner, brush, and rinse several times. An old toothbrush works great in tight areas that other brushes can't reach. Hosing Off When you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and surrounding surfaces with plenty of water. If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors. Allow your engine to air dry for several minutes before using a towel to wipe down all accessible parts. Remove the plastic bags. The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process; however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots. When dry, start your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes. Rinse with a stiff stream of water to remove as much of the grease and grime as possible. Be sure to avoid electrical connections and other sensitive areas. After rinsing, start the engine immediately. Allow it to run for about 5 minutes to help dry things out. Here's a handy tip for you. After your final rinse use your vacuum (if it can blow forced air) or an air compressor to blow water off the engine for a spot-free finish. This Vac B' Blow vacuum makes quick work of the job.Protect & Beautify When everything is dry, and your engine has cooled, you should apply a coating of engine protectant. If you don't have an engine protectant, use your rubber and vinyl protectant to coat your hoses, wires, and plastic shields. To add a quick shine and protection to the painted surfaces in the engine compartment, use a high-quality detailing spray. Just spray it on all surfaces, and wipe off the excess with a clean terry cloth towel. After drying the engine, spray all of the rubber hoses and plastic parts with a rubber and vinyl protectant, like Sonus Total Eclipse. Wipe off excess protectant and buff to a nice satin finish. NOTE: This is only short-term protection. For long-term protection, you will need to apply a coating of Sonus Trim and Motor Kote (shown below) of the latest sealant product, Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus. Don't underestimate the need to protect your engine after detailing. The factory applies a heavy coating of high temperature wax that protects for several years. When you remove this coating corrosion will begin. One of the few products available to do a proper job is Sonus Trim and Motor Kote. It is a spray on and walk away product. Before using a product like Sonus Trim & Motor Kote mask off with plastic or large detailing towels. This will help avoid a big clean up mess. Apply Motor Kote liberally. Make sure it reaches every surface that received degreaser. Use a damp sponge to dab up puddles. Do not wipe! Allow the product to dry. A heavy coating is necessary for proper protection. Here's the engine after just 30 minutes. The Sonus Trim & Motor Kote is nearly dry and the finish is perfect.CAR ENGINE DETAILING SUMMARY Many car enthusiasts find that detailing their engine is just the beginning of a long road toward engine beautification. Other embellishments include polishing aluminum parts, painting key parts with bright colors, and adding chrome. Whatever you choose, make it your style, and have fun. Last edited by 02StangGToWNEr; May 21st, 2008 at 11:37 AM. |
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#14 | |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 55
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#15 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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It was for me. I recieved my H-pipe 2 days after I ordered it, and I recieved my CAI & Tuner in 10 days which isn't bad, because they say for Tunes to be made, there will be a 5-7 day delay.
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#16 |
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Born to be Wild
2007 Grabber GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 3,194
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looks good 02Stang, i'm glad the install went good, 4 i am waiting 4 the racer as well from 07stanggt, I cant wait....i'm going 2 use the c&l tunes that come with it..i'll have to see how that goes.....
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![]() FRPP Stingers, O/R Prochamber, BMR STB, Steeda UDP, JLT, SCT/Brenspeed, 8in shorty
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#17 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,698
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Thanks bro. And congrats on the purchase. You will love this thing man, what a difference in acceleration, and preapare to be thrown back in your seat between 2,000 & 6,000 rpms, because above 2,000 it just rips through those rpms like never before. Hell and thats just the 87, so i'm still waiting to see what this baby does with the 93 Brenspeed race tune. ![]()
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#18 |
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Regular
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The canned tune from C&L works excellent.Never tried the 87 tune,went right for the Gusto,and I love the C&L....So will you....
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"Drive it like you stole it"
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#19 | |
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Regular
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You can clean the filter with brake clean,and spray low pressure compressed air from the inside out,and re-oil.....
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"Drive it like you stole it"
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