[Smeltzs]

Hey everybody, I just completed the whipple HO Install on the 06. What a beast!!! Best of all I did the complete install all by myself.It took about 15 hours but I think I could drop a couple of hours if I did it again. I want to thank everyone that gave me the support on this project . I would tell anyone with any mechanical ability and proper tools that they can do it. Ford and Whipple sure made an awesome kit. I followed every detail and went a little further with the wires and soldered them instead of crimping them together. I also drilled a hole in the fuel rail and TIG welded a fitting for the fuel pressure gauge. That brings me to the next question. What wires did you tap into for the 12V ignition power and the 12V dash light. Color and location of the wires. By the way I am using the Autometer Cobalt Gauges, electonic fuel pressure gauge and mechanical boost gauge. Thanks

[MaverickMLFD371]

i tapped my gauges into my headlight switch, so that way the gauge lights come on when the rest of my instrument gagues come on at night with the headlights

personally I've never drilled into the fuel rail, I dunno who may have done that and got his instructions, but the best way to done the fuel pressure gauge on the whipple is to tap into the fuel rail cross over line.

[scramblr]

I have all Cobalt gauges, fuel, boost (mechanical), water, wideband. All the electric ones are powered from the smart junction box. I had the lights wired to the dimmer switch, but found I like the gauge lights on all the time, not only when I have the headlights on, so I re-wired them to a switched 12v.

[Smeltzs]

When you reference the smart junction box, what do you mean? As for tapping into the fuel rail I saw someone did that on another post. I just dont like the looks of the fuel sensor module bouncing around in mid-air. I hope it works and I get correct readings.

[scramblr]

Originally Posted by Smeltzs When you reference the smart junction box, what do you mean?

The fuse box in the passenger side footwell. You can get some mini add a fuse connectors and that way you don't have to splice into any power cables.

A" and "C" are switched power, and "B" is constant.



You can get to the engine bay this way or through the rubber grommet.


Take the drivers side front tire and wheel well cover off to access the grommet above. The wires can then be pulled through and up to the engine bay as shown below.



Some fuse info (see pg 166 in the svc manual):

Fuse Condition - Hot at all times (Circuit is hot despite switch position:
Fuse 4 (5 Amp)
Fuse 15 (10 amp)
Slot 9 (not used -- same as slot B)
Fuse 10 (5 amp)
Fuse 11 (5 amp)
Fuse 8 (10 amp)


Fuse Condition - Hot in Run or ACC (Circuit is hot when the ignition switch is turned on or
car is running but is not powered during the startup cycle.

Fuse 3 (10 amp)
Fuse 7 (10 amp)

Fuse condition - Hot in Start or Run (Circuit is hot when the switch is turned on or the car
is running and remains powered during the startup cycle);

Fuse 16 (5 amp)
Fuse 17 (10 amp)
Fuse 12 (5 amp)
Fuse 14 (5 amp)
Fuse 18 (10 amp)
Fuse 19 (5 amp)

[Smeltzs]

Thats what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pictures, It sure will make my job alot easier.

[scramblr]

My pleasure...

[Smeltzs]

What type of readings should I be seeing on my fuel pressure gauge?

[scramblr]

What size injectors are you running?

[onederful100]

Originally Posted by Smeltzs What type of readings should I be seeing on my fuel pressure gauge?

w/ the HO kit you got the 38# injectors, mine reads 30 psi at idle, normal driving maybe 35-40, WOT goes up to 70 psi when going over 5k rpms.

[scramblr]

70 psi? Wow. My understanding is that injector size + boost = fuel pressure. So if you're running 39# injectors at 10 psi, you should see 49psi at WOT. At idle I'm at 29psi. At WOT and 6k rpm my boost gauge reads 8# of boost and my fuel pressure is at 47psi. Normal driving I'm between 30 and 40psi.

[Smeltzs]

Thanks guys, that at least gives me a ballpark figure of what I should expect.