supercharger or a turbo its a daily driver and stock engine
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Old July 16th, 2008, 07:58 AM   #1
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supercharger or a turbo its a daily driver and stock engine


i have an 06 gt mustang it is really nice elanor bumper ram air hood stuff like that lowered racing suspension hurst short throw but i want sum n to make it a lot faster on a decent budget i dont know how much just yet i need to sell my fourwheeler but i could get a loan for either one i just dont know which one to get and how much psi i can push safely and i want it to be pretty cheap thats the hard part
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Old July 16th, 2008, 08:55 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Ataylor View Post
i have an 06 gt mustang it is really nice elanor bumper ram air hood stuff like that lowered racing suspension hurst short throw but i want sum n to make it a lot faster on a decent budget i dont know how much just yet i need to sell my fourwheeler but i could get a loan for either one i just dont know which one to get and how much psi i can push safely and i want it to be pretty cheap thats the hard part

Hi !

I´ve got 2006 Mustang GT Coupe auto with magnacharger for i daly driver
and i love it (myne is blowing 10 psi)

Grettings Binni
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Old July 16th, 2008, 09:14 AM   #3
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8-10psi is the max range you want to push boost wise.

there really is no magic HP number for internal failure, claims have been made 500+ to the internal failure, however there are cars running 525+hp on 8psi with 0 problems or engine failures. some have had failure at 425HP. its all about the tune thats with the supercharger. as long as the tune is conservative and the a/f is where it should be, you'll be fine with a good power#

my vote is s/c for daily driver.

as for cheap, go with a centrifugal supercharger (procharger, vortech, paxton) they are cheaper than a twin screw s/c.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 11:14 AM   #4
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my vote is a 100 shot of nitrous for your DD... power there only there when you need it
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Old July 16th, 2008, 11:22 AM   #5
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Never have to refill boost I vote for Procharger, great drivability. You dont even know its there till you stomp the gas.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 01:05 PM   #6
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Either one will do. It's all in the tuning. Once you go past 450rwhp anything can happen with the powder rods. Keep in mind that it takes about 40 hp to turn a blower at red line.

Don't focus so much on PSI. RWHP is what you should worry about. All boost applications will make 550rwhp + on pump gas.

Finding it cheap is gonna be the tricky part. Unless you want to go with a non-intercooled centrifigual.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 02:55 PM   #7
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i dont think that 550 wont be too safe on a stock engine.
those running 500+ will be mostly turbos, as they yield more hp/psi bc of less parasitic loss. i think w/ a TS you would want to stay around 10 psi and 450 rwhp. i think for the street 450 rwhp is plenty, of course more is better, but i dont think you can really use all that hp on the street. but like the others say, the tune is very imortant.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 03:01 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=Al Guapo]
Don't focus so much on PSI. RWHP is what you should worry about.
[QUOTE]

Thats the furthest thing from the truth. An engine will never know how much horsepower it is pushing but it will know how much pressurized air it is dealing with. Stock blocks CAN handle 12psi IF tuned properly and conservatively. I have driven many many boosted cars, both with centrifugal and twin screw applications. I have to say that the twin-screw ABSOLUTELY destroys the centrifugal blower as far as seat of the pants feel and fun of the drive.

I highly recommend the Whipple HO kit, the Saleen or the Kenne Bell.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 03:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Mickey@HardcoreMustangs View Post
I highly recommend the Whipple HO kit, the Saleen or the Kenne Bell.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 05:45 PM   #10
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I say turbo, and the turbonetics kit at that. It's propably the least invasive way of boosting these cars as long as you still have the stock exhaust manifolds. It bolts right up to the manifolds which makes it unique and will make as much power as I think you'll need. I'm also a HUGE fan of the twin screws especially the Kenne Bell's but I think for daily driving the turbo will typically yield better fuel economy and are typically easier to tune. Plus the kit I think is generally about a grand cheaper than the twin screws and should be just as if not easier to install. I know nobody on this site runs one yet but the STS turbo systems are great too, very affordable and are a joke to install. Just another kit to think about.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 06:33 PM   #11
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Have had good experiences with both supercharger and turbo on the same car, although present setup is not at all for a daily driver. Plan for some upgrade path with your FI power adder.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 06:54 PM   #12
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kenne bell ftmfw.... and the 2.8H at that. oh wait he wanted it cheap. well later when you want to do your bottom end and you max out whatever you buy cheap now remember that when you are rebuying your forced induction yet again. buying once for a little more is cheaper than buying twice.
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Old July 16th, 2008, 08:04 PM   #13
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ok i am still trying to decide thanks i dont really know anything about engines what does a/f and f/i stand for and stuff like that and so far i think i am turning towards sum kind of supercharger have yall ever heard of the jets super i just seen one didnt know i do need to keep pretty good fuel millage
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Old July 17th, 2008, 06:14 AM   #14
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a/f is air to fuel ratio. it's very very important when tuning.
f/i is forced induction or anykind of super/turbo charger.

if you want a super there are 2 kinds. both will bring you most of your power at different levels. the centri will give you most of your power at the higher rpm's. the twin screw will give you a most starting at lower rpm's. the twin screw is said by many to be better for the daily driver on the street because of this.

1) CENTRI'S: they go in front of your engine. the only one i would buy if i were to get a centri would be the procharger, but there are a few on the market that are excellent pieces. all the different brands come start out at a base level that will max out your stock engine with just the addition of the base kit. they all also offer upgraded superchargers if you want to get even crazier.

2) TWIN SCREWS/ROOTS: don't confuse the two. the twin screw is much much more efficient than the roots style.
..for our s197's a roots blower would be the roush piece. i don't ever recommend this one as it is less efficient and won't do much for you if you ever want to go past the capabilities of the stock engine.
..for a twin screw there are a few different choices you have that are extremely capable. for most any of the basic kits from kenne bell, saleen, or whipple (ford racing) will be the best choice. they will be able to take you well past the capabilities of your stock engine if you ever decide to upgrade the crank, rods, pistons, with forged pieces. for those that are looking for higher horse power cars (over 700 rwhp) whipple makes a 3.4L charger and kenne bell just came out with a 2.8H mammoth charger. if you have any plans on getting crazy down the road i would recommend getting one of these so you don't have to purchase again later.

remember when you are buying mods for your car you should first think about where you want to be when you are done. the last thing you want to do is spend money that will later be taken off because it can't be used with another mod. that or you buy a mod that isn't going to be good enough when you want to up the horse power and have to buy the same part only a better piece that is more capable.
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Old July 17th, 2008, 09:24 AM   #15
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Haven't had a turbo on this car but I've had a centri-Vortech and now a twinscrew-Saleen. I would recommend a twin screw over a turbo for a daily driver.

And not to start a pissing match but I somewhat disagree with Mickey@HCM above. I believe the mechanical limits of these engines are determined by HP/TQ output and not PSI; meaning mechanically, would a rod be more likely to fail on an engine running 15psi with 425rwhp or running 11psi with 475rwhp? Seems to me that the weak link in these engines is found by pushing higher HP/TQ numbers compared to running higher PSI. Just my 2 cents.
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Old July 17th, 2008, 10:49 AM   #16
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I love my Kenne Bell!!!


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Old July 17th, 2008, 10:53 AM   #17
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Very sexy. Boost or Nitrous for me. Turbo can get expensive.
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Old July 17th, 2008, 12:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
would a rod be more likely to fail on an engine running 15psi with 425rwhp or running 11psi with 475rwhp? Seems to me that the weak link in these engines is found by pushing higher HP/TQ numbers compared to running higher PSI. Just my 2 cents.
You are only helping me prove my point. Neither of these would blow assuming a good tune. HOWEVER, the 15psi tune would blow first. The rods on these cars cant handle that much boost.
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Old July 17th, 2008, 01:38 PM   #19
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ok thanks
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Old July 18th, 2008, 05:39 PM   #20
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ok i was wondering if i am getting right at 21.4 at like 70-80 on highway how much will it drop with the supercharger'
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