[2006FMustangGT]

Ok. I'm new to the site, obviously, and I'm trying to get into cars. I have a 2006 Ford Mustang GT, it's screaming yellow and bone stock with the exception of DynoMax exhaust.

I want to add as much horspower as I can spending the lowest amount of money possible while doing it.

I'll post pictures and more information later, but I'm going to work.

I want to add a chip, any suggestions?
I want to get full exhaust and headers, any suggestions?
I want to get cams, any suggestions?
I want to get intake, any suggestions?

I've gotten advice from friends but I want more opinions on what I should do.

Any thought or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[GTsetGO]

welcome to the site and good looking ride. check out the link below and read through there. if you still have questions, feel free to ask.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...sion-more.html

[stangNV]

would you want FI or NA?

[Arsenal]

I know this is a stupid question but, I know FI stands for forced injection and NA means you don't have a turbo or supercharger, but what does NA actually stand for?

[07stanggt]

Welcome to the site. I sent you a private message so check it out.

[07stanggt]

FI stands for forced induction not injection and NA stands for naturally or normally aspirated.

[Arsenal]

oops, thanks

[07stanggt]

[06RedfireGT]

Welcome to MM.

I want to add a chip, any suggestions?
SCT
I want to get full exhaust and headers, any suggestions?
Mac Longtube heads and prochamber are inexpensive but still good quality
I want to get cams, any suggestions?
Comp NSR cams from 07stanggt are good, and the FRPP hot rod cams give decent power and have a nasty idle
I want to get intake, any suggestions?
C&L Racer


If if you want a power adder, nitrous will give you the most horsepower per dollar.

[algx]

No power addition, but torque multiplier= gears...
Weight reduction of rotating mass= UDP + one piece DS + lighter wheels...(Billet flywheel=more work, but...)
Just my 2 cents....

[acehogg69]

Nice ride. CAI SCT tuner, Mac L/T's with either prochamber or o/r h-pipe. 4.10 gears if you stay n/a. U/D pullies. Get ya into the low 12's. When you talk heads and one pice drive shaft etc your moving onto a larger budget.

[JimmyD]

You're getting into cars, you'll realize nothing is cheap.

First off, combine the intake, more specifically, a cold air intake, or CAI with the "chip", which now the tuning is done by a hand held tuner. These two mods go together, because when you are taking in more air, as with the CAI, the computer needs to be adjusted to compensate for the extra air going in the engine. For example, an SCT tuner . See bamachips or brenspeed websites. Plus the CAI you can get from Steeda, JLT, C&L, to name a few. Usually you can get a tuner/CAI package for about 500-600 bucks, this is the most basic and usually first mod to do.

Exhaust, you can get long tube (full length) or short length (shorty) headers. LT headers require an update on your tune. Shorties do not. Then you can go with high flow cats, and x or h pipe, and out to the axle back (rear mufflers). Exhausts are not cheap, and from what I've been told, unless you're super or turbocharged, for the money you dish out, the returns i n horsepower & torque are not alot. In other words, if you just have the CAI/ tune, the stock exhaust is enough, but most people change thye axleback mufflers to change the sound of the car. There are too many to list!

As far as cams, they are not too cheap, and the install labor is alot. Again, like the exhaust, what you put in as far as money, you don't get alot of return. An adjustment to your tune is needed here, too. The stock cams are very good. You can change the idle with the cams, as far as when the valves are opening and closing, it gives what is called a "lopey" idle, sounds like the car is almost misfiring, or it sounds like its gonna stall out. Alot of people like this sound, and depending on what set of cams you put in, you can get this sound, but it doesn't do alot in terms of performance in this case anyway. Some people are changing cams just for sound purposes. Also, how radical the cams are depends on whether you have to change the valve springs too, more labor. To each his own, but I personally don't feel cams are worth it. I would save more money ,keep the stock cams, then just go supercharged.

Hope I didn't simplify too much and insult your intelligence, but this is basically my take on the mods you mentioned. In other words, I'd go CAI/tune, change your axlebacks for better sound, install Steeda under drive pullies (aka UDP's), and definitely change the rear gerars, 3.73 for auto, 4.10 for stick, ) then if you want to take it to the next level, just go for the supercharger. (That would require the CAI is no longer needed, or the UDP's, and the tune needs to be updated for the supercharger. If you're definitely not going to go FI (forced induction = supercharged, or turbo), then if you really wanted to down the road, do your exhaust and cams for the hell of it! Hope this helps, good luck, and remember, nothing is cheap with cars!

[silverstang]

Richard with RADmustangs will hook you up on alot of the parts you are looking for, he usually has the best prices around, not all the time, but he DANG sure has the best customer service out of any vendor that i have dealt with personally.........I am running a custom set of Comp cams that Richard had made for me AND sells, they sound VERY bad ass and the HP gains are very good. If you are looking for performance out of the cams with not much sound, the off-the-shelf Comp NSR stage 2s are VERY good cams. He can tell you more about those than i can though, but you will not find Comp Cams cheaper ANYWHERE, because you get a discount being a member of this website when you buy from him.

[APER]

07stanggt got good performance out of the Comp NSR stage II's. i Know he wrote with the cam and longtube setup3gears he got 42 rwhp overall, around 12 for the long tubes and around 30 or so on the cams. Also Doug from Bamachips emailed me saying he had just tune and dynoed a mustang and he got 25-32 rwhp over the entire rpm range. so fo $600 to $800 for the hp is a great mod IMO.

[07stanggt]

Originally Posted by JimmyD You're getting into cars, you'll realize nothing is cheap. First off, combine the intake, more specifically, a cold air intake, or CAI with the "chip", which now the tuning is done by a hand held tuner. These two mods go together, because when you are taking in more air, as with the CAI, the computer needs to be adjusted to compensate for the extra air going in the engine. For example, an SCT tuner . See bamachips or brenspeed websites. Plus the CAI you can get from Steeda, JLT, C&L, to name a few. Usually you can get a tuner/CAI package for about 500-600 bucks, this is the most basic and usually first mod to do. Exhaust, you can get long tube (full length) or short length (shorty) headers. LT headers require an update on your tune. Shorties do not. Then you can go with high flow cats, and x or h pipe, and out to the axle back (rear mufflers). Exhausts are not cheap, and from what I've been told, unless you're super or turbocharged, for the money you dish out, the returns i n horsepower & torque are not alot. In other words, if you just have the CAI/ tune, the stock exhaust is enough, but most people change thye axleback mufflers to change the sound of the car. There are too many to list! As far as cams, they are not too cheap, and the install labor is alot. Again, like the exhaust, what you put in as far as money, you don't get alot of return. An adjustment to your tune is needed here, too. The stock cams are very good. You can change the idle with the cams, as far as when the valves are opening and closing, it gives what is called a "lopey" idle, sounds like the car is almost misfiring, or it sounds like its gonna stall out. Alot of people like this sound, and depending on what set of cams you put in, you can get this sound, but it doesn't do alot in terms of performance in this case anyway. Some people are changing cams just for sound purposes. Also, how radical the cams are depends on whether you have to change the valve springs too, more labor. To each his own, but I personally don't feel cams are worth it. I would save more money ,keep the stock cams, then just go supercharged. Hope I didn't simplify too much and insult your intelligence, but this is basically my take on the mods you mentioned. In other words, I'd go CAI/tune, change your axlebacks for better sound, install Steeda under drive pullies (aka UDP's), and definitely change the rear gerars, 3.73 for auto, 4.10 for stick, ) then if you want to take it to the next level, just go for the supercharger. (That would require the CAI is no longer needed, or the UDP's, and the tune needs to be updated for the supercharger. If you're definitely not going to go FI (forced induction = supercharged, or turbo), then if you really wanted to down the road, do your exhaust and cams for the hell of it! Hope this helps, good luck, and remember, nothing is cheap with cars!

Jimmy, nothing but love for you man. But i got two statements to make.

Have you even seen a fully dressed n/a 3 vavle with stock cams beat a fully dressed cammed 3 vavle in a race? and that goes for any cams on the market. Cuase ill race whoever wants to test this theory. Cams are not just for sound. axle backs are just for sound.

Number two, you dont need a tune for most of the NSR cams. Not that it matters.

[Arsenal]

Originally Posted by JimmyD You're getting into cars, you'll realize nothing is cheap. First off, combine the intake, more specifically, a cold air intake, or CAI with the "chip", which now the tuning is done by a hand held tuner. These two mods go together, because when you are taking in more air, as with the CAI, the computer needs to be adjusted to compensate for the extra air going in the engine. For example, an SCT tuner . See bamachips or brenspeed websites. Plus the CAI you can get from Steeda, JLT, C&L, to name a few. Usually you can get a tuner/CAI package for about 500-600 bucks, this is the most basic and usually first mod to do. Exhaust, you can get long tube (full length) or short length (shorty) headers. LT headers require an update on your tune. Shorties do not. Then you can go with high flow cats, and x or h pipe, and out to the axle back (rear mufflers). Exhausts are not cheap, and from what I've been told, unless you're super or turbocharged, for the money you dish out, the returns i n horsepower & torque are not alot. In other words, if you just have the CAI/ tune, the stock exhaust is enough, but most people change thye axleback mufflers to change the sound of the car. There are too many to list! As far as cams, they are not too cheap, and the install labor is alot. Again, like the exhaust, what you put in as far as money, you don't get alot of return. An adjustment to your tune is needed here, too. The stock cams are very good. You can change the idle with the cams, as far as when the valves are opening and closing, it gives what is called a "lopey" idle, sounds like the car is almost misfiring, or it sounds like its gonna stall out. Alot of people like this sound, and depending on what set of cams you put in, you can get this sound, but it doesn't do alot in terms of performance in this case anyway. Some people are changing cams just for sound purposes. Also, how radical the cams are depends on whether you have to change the valve springs too, more labor. To each his own, but I personally don't feel cams are worth it. I would save more money ,keep the stock cams, then just go supercharged. Hope I didn't simplify too much and insult your intelligence, but this is basically my take on the mods you mentioned. In other words, I'd go CAI/tune, change your axlebacks for better sound, install Steeda under drive pullies (aka UDP's), and definitely change the rear gerars, 3.73 for auto, 4.10 for stick, ) then if you want to take it to the next level, just go for the supercharger. (That would require the CAI is no longer needed, or the UDP's, and the tune needs to be updated for the supercharger. If you're definitely not going to go FI (forced induction = supercharged, or turbo), then if you really wanted to down the road, do your exhaust and cams for the hell of it! Hope this helps, good luck, and remember, nothing is cheap with cars!

For gears I thought it was the other way around, 3.73 for manual and 4.10 for auto. Is that right?

[bkid]

Originally Posted by silverstang Richard with RADmustangs will hook you up on alot of the parts you are looking for, he usually has the best prices around, not all the time, but he DANG sure has the best customer service out of any vendor that i have dealt with personally.........I am running a custom set of Comp cams that Richard had made for me AND sells, they sound VERY bad ass and the HP gains are very good. If you are looking for performance out of the cams with not much sound, the off-the-shelf Comp NSR stage 2s are VERY good cams. He can tell you more about those than i can though, but you will not find Comp Cams cheaper ANYWHERE, because you get a discount being a member of this website when you buy from him.

So are you saying that the custom cams you got are not producing as much HP as the stage 2 NSR`S?

[68351w]

Arsenal, you are correct. 3.73 for manual and 4.10's in the auto.

[07stanggt]

Originally Posted by 68351w Arsenal, you are correct. 3.73 for manual and 4.10's in the auto.

Originally Posted by Arsenal For gears I thought it was the other way around, 3.73 for manual and 4.10 for auto. Is that right?

Its the other way around 4.10s for the manuals and 3.73s in the automatics is whats popular and recomended by most places including FRPP.

[1FUN4RD]

Originally Posted by algx No power addition, but torque multiplier= gears... Weight reduction of rotating mass= UDP + one piece DS + lighter wheels...(Billet flywheel=more work, but...) Just my 2 cents....

On the subject of lighter wheels. I have the 17 in bullets. If I went with the steeda 18in ultra light wheels. Anyone know the weight difference?
I know if I was going 18s to 18s the Stedas would be lighter for sure, but being I am starting with 17s is going with the 18s going to save me any weight?