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Old September 23rd, 2008, 04:15 AM   #1
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guages


now that i'm pretty sure which pod i'm getting i need to fill it. so with the a/f, boost, and i think a shift light/ digital rpm guage being the 3 i'll get. what are your recommendations for guages. i know what i'd like to get, but i also know i don't want to spend a grand on the guages alone. those being the autometer nexus guages that change color like my dash do. i'd like them to have a black face and light up red if that makes it any easier. also not cost a million dollars.

here's the shift light/ digital tach. i think i'll get this either way.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 11:20 AM   #2
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okay a question. what about getting custom gauges. AirFuel Gauge, Revolution Series Gauges by SpeedHut
is there any reason a wide band a/f needs to be digital. i think it would be pretty cool to design my own gauges. any thoughts good or bad.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 11:36 AM   #3
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Yeah those autometer proshift guages are real nice. As for the guage model I would go with the C2s. I just redid all the guages in my 91 from the pro-comps to the C2s. I like the blue indiglo at night and the clean white face during the day.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:04 PM   #4
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is there any reason to have a wide band a/f rather than the standard a/f gauge. the price difference being about 300 bucks. i understand i'd be able to see the exact a/f ratio, but if the tuner gets the a/f right to begin with and i have a fuel pressure gauge would it be needed.

at the same time i guess it would be better to spend twice the money now on the gauges i really want than half the money now and then eventually spending the money anyway cuz i'm not satisfied.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:24 PM   #5
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you are going to want a wide band bro.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:27 PM   #6
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The "Wideband" is actually a wideband air fuel sensor that measures the ratio of air to fuel in the exhaust stream. The wideband O2 sensor is the most critical gauge you can have in a modified vehicle. The stock O2 sensors also measure the air fuel ratio, but they are designed to measure the AF at the stochiometric point (14.64 lbs of air to 1lb of fuel also known as 14.64:1 or just 14.64). They can really only measure the AF between about 14.3 and 15.3. The purpose of the O2 sensor is to adjust your AF during part throttle to run at the stochiometric point for max power, minimum fuel consumption, and minimum emissions. They do their job really well and it is not recommended to use the simulated narrow band output off of a wideband sensor because it is not nearly as sensitive at 14.64:1. Using the simulated output is kind of like using a 0-100psi boost gauge to measure only 10psi of boost, it will work, but using a 0-15psi gauge will provide a more accurate measurement. In contrast the Wideband O2 sensor can measure the AF between about 10.0 and 20.0. Your desired AF depends on your modifications but here are some typical values. NA (12.5-13.5), Supercharged, Turbo Charged, and Nitrous (11.0 to 12.0). The reason that knowing your AF at WOT (wide open throttle) is that the extra gas is used to help cool the engine cylinders. If you start to run Lean (high AFR) the burn will be much hotter and engine cylinder temps will begin to rise rapidly. When they reach a critical point you will have engine knock (detonation, pre-ignition) that will quickly destroy the motor if you do not let off the gas. Remember if you ever hear detonation LET OFF THE GAS! It sounds kind of like shaking popcorn kernels in a coffee can, slapping metal wires against the motor, a diesel motor, or a rattle up under the dash. It has a rhythmic sound to it as well. Generally anything that sounds "funny" at WOT is not good and needs to be evaluated. All the PLX Devices widebands can be datalogged using SCT Flash products and the SCT livelink datalogging program for complete data log analysis.






PLX Devices Wideband products use Critical Response Technology for the most accurate widebands on the market. There is a major advantage to using this technology vs. other widebands that need to be calibrated in the air. Please read the weblink if you would like to know more.

PLX Devices products and widebands purchased from Trick Tuners come pre wired and soldered. They arrive from PLX (and other dealers) with a bag of connectors that you must solder yourself. We will also provide a free Xcal2 data cable prewired on request. Most (all other?) dealers provide the Xcal data cable and you are required to cut the end off and test the wire pins using a volt meter to determine which wires you need to hook up, but we do that FREE!. Just request it in the comments section during your order. We can also provide Xcal data cables with wire leads soldered onto them for other applications for $20. All you are required to do is hook up the power and ground leads, mount the gauge, drill a hole in the firewall and run the wideband sensor wire into the engine compartment and have a local exhaust shop weld in a bung for the WO2 (same as regular O2 bungs and stocked at almost all exhaust shops). Most shops will weld in a bung for about $40-50. Each PLX Devices wideband product also come with Trick Tuners supplemental installation and use instructions.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:29 PM   #7
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technical reasons. is it for the safety of seeing exactly that my a/f will be within exact perameters


ah thanks i was late
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Old September 24th, 2008, 12:11 AM   #8
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okay so another ?

is there any reason to use electrical rather than mechanical gauges. such as the boost and fuel pressure
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Old September 24th, 2008, 12:20 AM   #9
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I have electrical boost/vac gauge. Just go mech, way cheaper. And IMO just as good.
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Old September 24th, 2008, 12:40 AM   #10
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got any technical reasons for which one is better for what reason. are the mechanical ones not going to be accurate or something. i'm just kinda in shock at over 200 per guage for boost and fuel
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Old September 24th, 2008, 12:53 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by psycho bob View Post
okay so another ?

is there any reason to use electrical rather than mechanical gauges. such as the boost and fuel pressure
Mechanical boost works great, but you don't want mechanical fuel pressure inside the car because of the potential for a fuel leak. If you're going to have fuel pressure in your gauge pod, go electric for that one.
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Old September 24th, 2008, 01:06 AM   #12
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ah i see, i'm not sure if i am going with a fuel pressure or not. might go with a shift light/digital tach
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