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#1 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
2007 GT
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 11,950
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cross drilled rotors
are not for racing.
No matter how good the qaulity, if you overheat them on the race track they will crack. 99% of them. In a 3700plb (counting driver) 400hp mustang you will overheat them and you will buy new rotors. They are fine for the street and will last as long if not longer then OEM. But they are for looks. This is after talking to stoptech, baer and brembo about my options. My new race setup since i dont want big brakes for a couple reasons. OEM rotors, apparently there are two choices there from ford i got the OEM and not motorcraft option, hawk hps+ pads, the braided lines and some cooling ducts. Live and learn. |
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#3 |
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Regular
2008 GT Alloy
13.2@107
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wiesbaden Air Field, Germany
Posts: 476
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im not knocking what u said but maybe im confused or dumb, but i thought cross drilled slotted rotors were made 4 racing, i mean the drills for more sufficient cooling and the slots to rid of heat quicker right.? i think i need some schooling because i was just thinking about buying some
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#4 | ||
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
2007 GT
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 11,950
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They are fine for the street. but for real race track use you dont want them. The way to go would be slotted or just flat 14 inch rotors. There is a setup from baer that come with a bracket to move your stock calipers. but im not sure if my bullits have the offset needed. I would get 4 piston calipers with 14 inch rotors but then i need new rims. So i called stoptech and said hey im not complaining, these have a 25,000 miles on them but is this normal after racing and they said thats why we say on our site that the cross drilled rotors are not for racing. To bad i didnt order them from their site.
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#5 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
2007 GT
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 11,950
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Ill take a picture of the rotor later today and you can see its really cracked up.
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#6 |
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All sissies going to Hell!
2008 BULLITT #3385
Killing with a smile
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rota Spain, New york ithaca/ auburn/syracuse
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drilled makes the rotor lighter (and turns out it disipates heat also.) The slotted will also disipate heat. I have heard that drilled rotors are harder on the pads and wear faster. That is why when I get the stoptech kit from rich It's gonna be the slotted.
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#7 |
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Enthusiast
2005 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: I'm as bored as a midget in a theme park
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That's what happens when you let a drag racer turn left and right instead of just going strait, he burns up the brakes j/k
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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I wonder why they put cross drilled on lambos and other exotic cars then??
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2007 Mustang GT - Pretty much stock. Pypes pypebomb a/b, Tri-ax shifter. |
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#9 |
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All sissies going to Hell!
2008 BULLITT #3385
Killing with a smile
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rota Spain, New york ithaca/ auburn/syracuse
Posts: 4,994
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because they try to cut weight and its a lambo.
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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I guess they don't worry about them racing the cars and cracking the rotors then.
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2007 Mustang GT - Pretty much stock. Pypes pypebomb a/b, Tri-ax shifter. |
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#11 | |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
2007 GT
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 11,950
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Again, this isnt spirited street driveing. this is racing and the rotors on the stang are smoking after a 20minute session. then your cooling them down and doing it again an hour later. Its only the left front, i said right front earlier but its the left. the right front has one small crack in it. the back rotors are fine. There was no crack after the shenandoah circtuit three weeks ago. But the main summit track is a much faster track. your carrying 120 to 130mph into 4 of the 10 turns and the fastest turns are left handers so maybe the left front was just working harder. But both stoptech and baer told me the same thing, if racing it, dont get drilled. The issue with the exotics is less weight, bigger rotors maybe to begin with that dont heat up as much. but im on the brakes in this stang so hard that the ass is wiggling, im locking up antilock brakes on that track. In april i'll try to get a vid. Maybe its a matter of getting the most expensive drilled rotors out there like cryo treated or something. but stoptech told me that does not make that much of a difference. I see some street porshes there with drilled rotors and maybe its just a better overall system and they dont have the problem. maybe they arent going into turns as hard as me. I passed porshes and vettes on that track. Im not bragging, im just saying i obviously pushed those rotors too hard and the brake companies said, go with flat or slotted. |
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#12 |
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MM's resident Juice head
07 Mustang GT
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 7,920
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i dont believe F1 cars rotors are drilled
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#13 |
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Regular
05 Roush GT
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal
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Listen guys, all you need is slotted rotors. I use a company called rotopro and all they do is slot the stock brakes.
I have ran the stock rotors (slotted) and calipers with steel braided lines and hawk pads and have been on the same set of brakes for 2 years and stop the car from 130+ mph consistently. The best part is my brakes cost $400
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#14 |
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Regular
2006 Mustang GT
unknown
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 277
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i will say after having the Brembo 14" on my Boyd/Roush, slotted rotors eat pads! They work awesome, but be prepared to replace pads. I have never had drilled, so no comment. I have read time and time again that drilled are only for street, street/track, not full blown race, as they will fail.
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2006 GT Xenon body kit, C&L Street, Bama 89 Torque Tune, Eibach pro kit, Flowmasters, Pypes O/R H-Pipe, No 20"s, 6k HID, Sequential Tails, Brakedesigns slotted/drilled rotors, Hurst Billet Comp.
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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This is good stuff to know.
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2007 Mustang GT - Pretty much stock. Pypes pypebomb a/b, Tri-ax shifter. |
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#16 | |
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Regular
Join Date: Jul 2007
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#17 | |
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Regular
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
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you nailed it on the head.
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Team Edlbrock Racing Team Magnaflow Racing
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#18 |
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Enthusiast
2006 Mustang GT
12.76@105
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stark County, Ohio
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The cross drilling is also to give gasses created by the pads during braking a place to go rather than build-up between the pad and rotor allowing for better stopping.
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#19 |
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Enthusiast
2008 GT
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 807
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I thought drilled/slotted rotors were for degassing the pads, not cooling or weight loss?
Doh - vista beat me to it.
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Fuel Altereds Rule The Earth
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#20 |
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Regular
2006 Mustang GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Spangdahlem Air Base, Germany
Posts: 411
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I just went through a pair for R1 Rotors and Hawk HPS pads in 1 1/2 years and 15k miles. no auto X or roadcourse. The rotors have cracks all over them. I like the look of slotted/drilled rotors though which is the only reason to buy them. Just ordered a pair of Baer Decelarotors. They're made in China like most inexpensive rotors, so we'll see.
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11.67 - 1.64 60' @ 119mph Livernois 298ci Stroker, Saleen S/C, GT500 FPs, SD 60# inj, GT500 T/B, Thump Tensioner, BGG 8 Rib, Kooks, Gords HE, 4.10, TrueTrac, Spec 3+, Pro 5.0
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