Crankshaft torque specs anyone??

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 10:33 AM

I'm installing my udp's and wondering what I should torque the crankshaft bolt to. And exactly where is the keyway?? I've got high temp silicone for it, just making sure that I'm putting in the right area. Also, instructions dont say but I've heard that I should be using Loctite on the bolts too. Thanks in advance. I'll check back periodically throughout the install. Any other advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

05mustang_kb_charged · August 21st, 2007, 12:52 PM

the torque is 75 foot lbs if i remember right, if you use loc tite use the blue not the red, and the key way should be on the crank, they should have a 1/4" gap cut in crank for the key to fit into, i'm not sure these cars have one i never removed my balancer

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 01:38 PM

Thanks KB, I had just gotten the specs from Steeda, its actually a 4 step process. And there is a keyway on these 3v's. Just about to put the new pulleys on.

TheUNZippee! · August 21st, 2007, 03:43 PM

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 05:47 PM

So it is, so it is. I'll have to do something about that then.

TheUNZippee! · August 21st, 2007, 05:51 PM

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 05:55 PM

Per Zip's request.
Here is before

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 05:56 PM

During

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 05:58 PM

Finished

stanglifemike · August 21st, 2007, 05:59 PM

Hey actually now that I look, the pic where the intake is on, was before the install. Woops

TheUNZippee! · August 21st, 2007, 07:05 PM

Good stuff Mike. Thanks

Difficult install? And have you driven it yet.

06RedfireGT · August 21st, 2007, 08:09 PM

very nice

stanglifemike · August 22nd, 2007, 12:42 PM

Install was actually pretty simple. You need a 3-jaw puller, which I rented from a parts store. Impact gun makes the water pump pulley a breeze. You'll need a breaker bar for the crank bolt, I used a 24" bar and it came off easy. Loosen the bolts in your idler, then take a pry bar to relieve some tension off the belt. The hardest part is getting the 3-jaw on the pulley so that you can remove it. Other than that it was pretty self-explanatory. They say you need to jack your front end up, but I only got under the car once, and found that everything was simpler from above.

stanglifemike · August 22nd, 2007, 12:47 PM

Oh and I did drive it last night. Nice!! I could definatley tell a difference. It feels like it has a little more pep all through the rpm's. Mainly picked up around 2500. It least thats how it feels. I havent seen a dyno graph of before and after on a car, but thats my guess. You need to do it Zip, I believe you get slightly better gas milage too, if I remember correctly. I think my 98 got a little better but that was years ago when I had them put in.

TheUNZippee! · August 22nd, 2007, 12:54 PM

Originally Posted by stanglifemike

Oh and I did drive it last night. Nice!! I could definatley tell a difference. It feels like it has a little more pep all through the rpm's. Mainly picked up around 2500. It least thats how it feels. I havent seen a dyno graph of before and after on a car, but thats my guess. You need to do it Zip, I believe you get slightly better gas milage too, if I remember correctly. I think my 98 got a little better but that was years ago when I had them put in.

Thanks for the great write-up & pics Mike

The one and only reason I haven't put UDP's on mine yet is because of my stereo system. It will pull 160 amps at roughly 2/3 volume, and my installer told me he would fistfight me if I put them on. lol

I'm not averse to a good ole' fistfight, but this dude is 6'4" & 250lbs, and it just takes me so much longer to heal now at my advanced age. lol

stanglifemike · August 22nd, 2007, 12:56 PM

Gotcha, well ya know I just realized with the install that you dont change your alternator pulley, like on the 2v's. It's just water pump and crank. So it may not affect it

TheUNZippee! · August 22nd, 2007, 12:59 PM

Really? Interesting. Would be more interesting to verify that. *ponder*

Hmmm...well...if you change the crank one, that would in turn be affecting all accessories turned off of that pulley.

stanglifemike · August 22nd, 2007, 01:04 PM

Well the crank pulley is smaller, allowing it to spin faster. The water pump is larger, slowing it down. Everything is will spin the same though.

TheUNZippee! · August 22nd, 2007, 01:11 PM

Far out.

August 21st, 2007, 10:33 AM	#1
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Crankshaft torque specs anyone?? I'm installing my udp's and wondering what I should torque the crankshaft bolt to. And exactly where is the keyway?? I've got high temp silicone for it, just making sure that I'm putting in the right area. Also, instructions dont say but I've heard that I should be using Loctite on the bolts too. Thanks in advance. I'll check back periodically throughout the install. Any other advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 21st, 2007, 12:52 PM	#2
05mustang_kb_charged Hardcore Enthusiast 2005 Mustang GT Dyno Racer Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: LSU Country Posts: 2,272	the torque is 75 foot lbs if i remember right, if you use loc tite use the blue not the red, and the key way should be on the crank, they should have a 1/4" gap cut in crank for the key to fit into, i'm not sure these cars have one i never removed my balancer __________________ A Couple Bolt-Ons and GOOD Air 613 rwhp and 534 rwtq on 15 psi. and 17 degrees of timing F/I Crew Member #1 KENNE BELL Crew Member #1 Click Here>>http://www.twinscrewracing.com/ http://www.radmustangs.com/

August 21st, 2007, 01:38 PM	#3
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Thanks KB, I had just gotten the specs from Steeda, its actually a 4 step process. And there is a keyway on these 3v's. Just about to put the new pulleys on. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 21st, 2007, 05:47 PM	#5
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	So it is, so it is. I'll have to do something about that then. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 21st, 2007, 05:59 PM	#10
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Hey actually now that I look, the pic where the intake is on, was before the install. Woops __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

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August 22nd, 2007, 12:42 PM	#13
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Install was actually pretty simple. You need a 3-jaw puller, which I rented from a parts store. Impact gun makes the water pump pulley a breeze. You'll need a breaker bar for the crank bolt, I used a 24" bar and it came off easy. Loosen the bolts in your idler, then take a pry bar to relieve some tension off the belt. The hardest part is getting the 3-jaw on the pulley so that you can remove it. Other than that it was pretty self-explanatory. They say you need to jack your front end up, but I only got under the car once, and found that everything was simpler from above. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 22nd, 2007, 12:47 PM	#14
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Oh and I did drive it last night. Nice!! I could definatley tell a difference. It feels like it has a little more pep all through the rpm's. Mainly picked up around 2500. It least thats how it feels. I havent seen a dyno graph of before and after on a car, but thats my guess. You need to do it Zip, I believe you get slightly better gas milage too, if I remember correctly. I think my 98 got a little better but that was years ago when I had them put in. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 22nd, 2007, 12:56 PM	#16
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Gotcha, well ya know I just realized with the install that you dont change your alternator pulley, like on the 2v's. It's just water pump and crank. So it may not affect it __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

August 22nd, 2007, 01:04 PM	#18
stanglifemike MM Fanatic 06 GT & 98 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 3,319	Well the crank pulley is smaller, allowing it to spin faster. The water pump is larger, slowing it down. Everything is will spin the same though. __________________ 98 GT: Accufab, Steeda, BBk, Mac, FlowMaster, Moser, Ford Racing, American Racing, Nitto DR's, Eibach, SCT, FPS 06 GT: JLT, SCT, FRPP/Borla, Pypes, Steeda, BamaChips, BMR RadMustangs Store

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