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Discussing I broke it... in the 2005+ Forum. I guess 70+ runs at the strip with out a problem was pretty good for ...

       

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Old May 23rd, 2008, 08:04 AM   #1
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I broke it...


I guess 70+ runs at the strip with out a problem was pretty good for the durability aspect of my Stang.
The problem came at 100 mph and shifting into second rather than 4th.. took one more run after that before my lifter/s started taping...
well the reason for this thread is any one with a SC might tell me some things I can do, if any, while they have my blower off and and replace my lifters.
It won't go into the shop till the third so I have ove a week to gather ideas about this... thanks
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 10:10 AM   #2
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cams
 
Old May 23rd, 2008, 10:33 AM   #3
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Definately do a set of cams like 07 said.. perfect time..
 
Old May 23rd, 2008, 11:38 PM   #4
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what cams would be good with my Kenne Bell?
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2.6l KENNE BELL 100% forged bal and blu
Stroked to 298 / Ported and polished heads
Long tube/O/R H / stage 3 clutch
8 rib/65 lb injectors
20" Weld Racing Wheels
meth injection
CDC AGR Spoiler- clear coat bra
D/S rotors / MGW Short Throw
 
Old May 23rd, 2008, 11:45 PM   #5
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Comp Stage 2 or 3....from 07stang

or BBR Stage 2 Cams

and I hope that all you hurt was the lifters. What RPM did you see when you did that?
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Old May 24th, 2008, 12:52 AM   #6
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sure nothing else fried?? oil pump is okay, bearings, chains all that jazz
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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:37 AM   #7
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don't know for sure till they pull it apart... the car runs fine and doesn't make the lifter tap noise till it is warmed up... the oil pressure gauge is fine and I ran a 12.4 wed night before my buds at the strip advised me to stop which I did... I have put about 100 miles on it since the event and besides the noise it runs great... it happened so quick I have no idea how high the rpm's got.. the tires did break loose when I did it but I had the clutch back in very quickly.
Hey 07... how about cams and lifters? PM me a price
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2.6l KENNE BELL 100% forged bal and blu
Stroked to 298 / Ported and polished heads
Long tube/O/R H / stage 3 clutch
8 rib/65 lb injectors
20" Weld Racing Wheels
meth injection
CDC AGR Spoiler- clear coat bra
D/S rotors / MGW Short Throw
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 12:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 2006greyGT View Post
things I can do, if any, while they have my blower off and and replace my lifters.

Lifters??? There aren't any "lifters" in this valve train ... if it only happens when it heats up (and it runs ok) your valve train is probably alright ... though you probably want to change out your valve springs with stronger ones seeing how you are a frequent 1/4 mile driver. There's a chance you damaged a spring an it's throwing your geometry out enough to make lash noise (if that's what you're hearing) when it gets to temp.

"Heating up" noises ususally mean when the oil gets to temp the pressure drops just enough to make a bad or spun bearing noisy. I would suspect a bearing somewhere is not happy with your untimely downshift ...

If you do the cam swap you'll have to custom tune again ... if your cams are undamaged I would leave them alone unless you got the $$$ to spare.
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 03:20 PM   #9
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OK ... I am totally confused now... do the cams open the valves? where is this bearing that might be spun?
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2.6l KENNE BELL 100% forged bal and blu
Stroked to 298 / Ported and polished heads
Long tube/O/R H / stage 3 clutch
8 rib/65 lb injectors
20" Weld Racing Wheels
meth injection
CDC AGR Spoiler- clear coat bra
D/S rotors / MGW Short Throw
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 03:36 PM   #10
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There's actually 5 bearings each cam rides on ... could be one of those if you are for sure its coming from the top end. Back to the cam discussion, if you hurt the cam along with one of the mentioned bearings ... then it might make sense to do your cam upgrade ... still be sure to at least upgrade your springs.

If you can't tell which side or top from bottom for the sound ... first make sure its not coming from the S/C ... if not then its probably in the bottom end somewhere.
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 04:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 2006greyGT View Post
don't know for sure till they pull it apart... the car runs fine and doesn't make the lifter tap noise till it is warmed up... the oil pressure gauge is fine and I ran a 12.4 wed night before my buds at the strip advised me to stop which I did... I have put about 100 miles on it since the event and besides the noise it runs great... it happened so quick I have no idea how high the rpm's got.. the tires did break loose when I did it but I had the clutch back in very quickly.
Hey 07... how about cams and lifters? PM me a price
just saw this man. How much boost you running? ill pm you the price.
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 07:17 PM   #12
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I just put the 3.75" pulley on her and I am told that I should be around 12... as you saw in the thread Grabber enlightened me to the fact that my 4.6 has no lifters... so I will need better springs... I think I might need it apart before I order the parts... what is your turn-around on an order???
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2.6l KENNE BELL 100% forged bal and blu
Stroked to 298 / Ported and polished heads
Long tube/O/R H / stage 3 clutch
8 rib/65 lb injectors
20" Weld Racing Wheels
meth injection
CDC AGR Spoiler- clear coat bra
D/S rotors / MGW Short Throw
 
Old May 24th, 2008, 10:28 PM   #13
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I can have cams quick. I already have a few comp cams in stock. With that kinda of boost are you thinking you want a blower cam? thats not that high but let me check. and im assuming you dont want a real radical cam right. Im mean they have stage 1 and II nsr cam's that will work good with a supercharger and then the blower nsr cams for high boost applications. Then of course you have blower cams in VSR.

Here is the whole line. And they have tons of grinds already as well. we just need to figure out what your looking for outta the cams.


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Old May 24th, 2008, 10:33 PM   #14
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just the KB for engine mods? what rear you got? manual or auto?
 
Old May 25th, 2008, 12:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 07 Grabber GT View Post
There's actually 5 bearings each cam rides on ... could be one of those if you are for sure its coming from the top end. Back to the cam discussion, if you hurt the cam along with one of the mentioned bearings ... then it might make sense to do your cam upgrade ... still be sure to at least upgrade your springs.

If you can't tell which side or top from bottom for the sound ... first make sure its not coming from the S/C ... if not then its probably in the bottom end somewhere.
Negative Ghost Rider, there are 0 cam bearings in a 3v head. The oil that passes through the cam journals actually creates a oil bearing<--Has a thin sheet of oil around cam and aluminum guides on head. As for lifers no you have Hydraulic Lash Adjusters and Cam Followers. The cam follower sits on the bottom of the cam and the top of the hydraulic lash adjuster and valve stem.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 06:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 05mustang_kb_charged View Post
Negative Ghost Rider, there are 0 cam bearings in a 3v head. The oil that passes through the cam journals actually creates a oil bearing<--Has a thin sheet of oil around cam and aluminum guides on head. As for lifers no you have Hydraulic Lash Adjusters and Cam Followers. The cam follower sits on the bottom of the cam and the top of the hydraulic lash adjuster and valve stem.

Go to the "All Knowing ..." page and find the manuals, pick the left camshaft (right reads the same). Read pg 4 real close ... you'll find the word "bearing" mentioned many times.

What you've described is the purpose of any lubrication system ... bearings are there to keep harder metals from making contact with each other during any type of load or rotation.
 
Old May 25th, 2008, 06:52 PM   #17
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I am going to keep my stock lower end for now... I use the car to drag race and cruise on the weekends... I am staying with the sleeper profile so I would need cams that would give me gains with out the rough idle...
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2.6l KENNE BELL 100% forged bal and blu
Stroked to 298 / Ported and polished heads
Long tube/O/R H / stage 3 clutch
8 rib/65 lb injectors
20" Weld Racing Wheels
meth injection
CDC AGR Spoiler- clear coat bra
D/S rotors / MGW Short Throw
 
Old May 25th, 2008, 07:08 PM   #18
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mild cams then. you want more top end or low end? either stage I or stage IIs, you can do VSR or NSR its up to you, changing the springs even though its a mild cam can allow for some higher rpms. I guess you need to find out what is wrong to know. Plus the other benifit to the mild cams is keeping the VCT working, thats good stuff and helps optimize power at all rpms.
 
Old May 25th, 2008, 08:41 PM   #19
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I'd be curious to know what is found as the source of your "ticking" ... certainly worth putting in the knowledge bank.

For the sake of tunability I would stick with a milder cam if you choose to do cams ... get the "blower" version where the exhaust profile is steeper then the intake ... and from what I've read in a few places most shops are charging the same if they do the springs as well or not. Better springs will help keep things in check at the high end of shifting ...
 
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