Best Cam option for 2013 GT - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 24 Old June 12th, 2013, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Best Cam option for 2013 GT

And insight into who is manufacturing the best cam option for the new Coyote motor?
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post #2 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 12:20 AM
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What are your goals?

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post #3 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Looking to increase power as much as possible and still be. for the most part reliable. No plans for forced induction or anything too crazy. Plan is cams, intake, exhaust and tune. Just want to make a food amount of natural power and have good sound.

---------- Post added at 12:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

Good* amount
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post #4 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 10:34 AM
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Give us a call if your looking to do a N/A build. We've got the fastest N/A Coyotes on the planet.

Aaron @ Justin's Performance Center
410 729 0005

We can set you up with a great set of custom ground camshafts to fit your needs.


853rwhp @ 23psi
75mm Turbo 5.4 swap E85
#turbo2v

10.11 @ 138mph STOCK LONGBLOCK
9.20 @ 138 on 16psi - New Longblock /w Powerglide

www.JPCracing.com 410-729-0005 ext. 11

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post #5 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 10:43 AM
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I'd give up that goal and just save for FI. Unless you haven't done suspension, then do that long before any more power mods.

Doesn't seem to be any really good lopey cams for our cars, so if that is a want not really worth it.

Once you start looking at some really decent cams, you then in turn might be looking new heads to support the cams, among all the other needed pieces for install, etc. onward and maybe pick up 40HP.

Someone can correct me if I am wrong but a lot of this is what I have gathered from research. You'll end up spending 7+K not counting the install costs just building up the car to put down a little more than 500HP N/A to the wheels.

You can shoot right past that with FI without trying.
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post #6 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 10:58 AM
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Here's a video of an engine we did a little while back.


Car made 550rwhp N/A


853rwhp @ 23psi
75mm Turbo 5.4 swap E85
#turbo2v

10.11 @ 138mph STOCK LONGBLOCK
9.20 @ 138 on 16psi - New Longblock /w Powerglide

www.JPCracing.com 410-729-0005 ext. 11

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post #7 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosympathy View Post
I'd give up that goal and just save for FI. Unless you haven't done suspension, then do that long before any more power mods.

Doesn't seem to be any really good lopey cams for our cars, so if that is a want not really worth it.

Once you start looking at some really decent cams, you then in turn might be looking new heads to support the cams, among all the other needed pieces for install, etc. onward and maybe pick up 40HP.

Someone can correct me if I am wrong but a lot of this is what I have gathered from research. You'll end up spending 7+K not counting the install costs just building up the car to put down a little more than 500HP N/A to the wheels.

You can shoot right past that with FI without trying.
There was that one guy that had a road runner short block, livernois stage 3 heads, and a stage 2 cam but he dynod more than a 2013 gt500 on the same day. Or close to it or something.

Its expensive to do it that way.
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post #8 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Austin_ View Post
There was that one guy that had a road runner short block, livernois stage 3 heads, and a stage 2 cam but he dynod more than a 2013 gt500 on the same day. Or close to it or something.

Its expensive to do it that way.
Don't get me wrong, it is really neat to have an N/A car like that. It just costs so much money to do so.

I am newer here but another forum I have been on for a long time and since left perm. we'd see people come in expecting to spend 3-4K and have a 500RWHP N/A car.

I don't think a single one of them really pursued it ever again once they started realizing the true cost involved. Someone who just wants a really powerful street prowler is going to generally be happier with an FI build. Not to mention some of the parts to make a really strong N/A car make them a god awful DD car.

specially since a lot of FI builds people can install themself. I really doubt most people here are ever going to attempt cams etc.

I'd only consider cams if there were a really good loping set for our car. That is one thing I miss from owning a 1970 Chevelle SS 454. That lope was amazing.
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post #9 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 12:07 PM
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post #10 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 12:29 PM
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Maybe it is the exhaust they have, I think my lope tune sounds better haha.

Either way are those newish? I hadn't looked real recently but hadn't really seen any that were supposed to give a good lope sound.
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post #11 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 12:54 PM
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go for it. not many people go that route so it will be something different.



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post #12 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 12:58 PM
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post #13 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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So the general consensus Round here is no one is doing n/a mods, just going straight to forced?? How much boost/hp can you put through our motor before having to push more fuel, be it injectors or boost a pump... Or anything else that will need to be upgraded to handle FI... I just wanted good spund and a nice jump in power. Heard a few cammed coyotes that had a nice lope and in the high 400s... I'd be fine with that.
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post #14 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 03:22 PM
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There are a lot of fully built notorious coyotes at over 700+ whp
For under 10k....

If you do all your work you can hit 500 n/a whp for around or under 5000.

From here to infirmary......

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post #15 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 04:09 PM
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Hi All,
I had a 2010 GT, traded it in, and now back with a 2013 GT. Been awhile since I posted here. I often thought about this too as far as cams and building my then 2010 and now the 2013 into a N/A Daily driver. I will not be at the track week after week, so not looking for a 10sec car. More for me mid 11's - 12's would be fine. I think I more in to a great handling road car, but power to defend myself from any attacks. Always tell my nephew, I want the car respectable at the track, but I want it to handle as on rails and if I could jump on the freeway drive from LA to Vegas put it on 140 and run all day, no worries. I will admit though, I have this thing about cams. I put some in a 2006 focus GT and it turned that car into a monster. My nephew couldn't believe it. He laughed at me when we started, when we got done and he drove it, just shook his head. He now is a believer on what a good set of cams will do to an engine.

So the mods have started on the 2013 - Airaid cold-air, Magnaflow catback, and if the parts are here by tomorrow, Eibach Pro-system plus kit, Boss 302 strut tower, J&M Panhard rod, will go in this weekend.
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post #16 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 04:28 PM
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Hi All,
I had a 2010 GT, traded it in, and now back with a 2013 GT. Been awhile since I posted here. I often thought about this too as far as cams and building my then 2010 and now the 2013 into a N/A Daily driver. I will not be at the track week after week, so not looking for a 10sec car. More for me mid 11's - 12's would be fine. I think I more in to a great handling road car, but power to defend myself from any attacks. Always tell my nephew, I want the car respectable at the track, but I want it to handle as on rails and if I could jump on the freeway drive from LA to Vegas put it on 140 and run all day, no worries. I will admit though, I have this thing about cams. I put some in a 2006 focus GT and it turned that car into a monster. My nephew couldn't believe it. He laughed at me when we started, when we got done and he drove it, just shook his head. He now is a believer on what a good set of cams will do to an engine.

So the mods have started on the 2013 - Airaid cold-air, Magnaflow catback, and if the parts are here by tomorrow, Eibach Pro-system plus kit, Boss 302 strut tower, J&M Panhard rod, will go in this weekend.
You can get high 11 and the whole range of 12s with very minor bolt ons, tune, and slicks.

Its always hard to believe everything on the internet, but another forum I was on a guy with Drag Radials, Pro Cal tune and Upper Control Arm only was running high 11s.
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post #17 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 07:13 PM
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I think personally a 500 RWHP N/A car is sexier than a 800 RWHP blown car. But that's just me.

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post #18 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 08:14 PM
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I agree Marc! This is actually something I'd really like to do but also agree that after doing my own research that its more expensive for less power than FI so wats the upside to na? In past experience with fox bodies na builds could be reliable but drive ability sucked wasn't really a worry until I got into a traffic jam or in the city lol . Is the drive ability better with the tuning capability of the new cars? Is it more reliable na than FI? I hear mixed reviews on this and I've never been FI before. Can jpc or anyone that's done an na build on our cars give some input as far as comparisons ,pros, cons, pricing?
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post #19 of 24 Old June 13th, 2013, 09:52 PM
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I agree Marc! This is actually something I'd really like to do but also agree that after doing my own research that its more expensive for less power than FI so wats the upside to na? In past experience with fox bodies na builds could be reliable but drive ability sucked wasn't really a worry until I got into a traffic jam or in the city lol . Is the drive ability better with the tuning capability of the new cars? Is it more reliable na than FI? I hear mixed reviews on this and I've never been FI before. Can jpc or anyone that's done an na build on our cars give some input as far as comparisons ,pros, cons, pricing?
it comes down to the end goals for the car & your wallet.

with fi cars you are constanly fighting heat, have a large initial purchase for the kit & if you really want to make power, the same built long block the n/a guy has.

nitrous isn't much better, big power & cheap buy in, but your constantly filling the bottle & you'll still need the built motor sooner or later.

even the highest h/p most radical n/a builds will never see the e/t's capable of a correctly built blower car but are far easier to build & ultimately, at the end of the day, by far the cheapest option.


back to the goals.

for the average guy,

f/i if you want a dyno queen with some track time (most fi builds fall waaay short at the track though)

nitrous if you want the most you can get of both worlds

n/a if you spend alot of time at the track.

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post #20 of 24 Old June 14th, 2013, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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This is my 4th mustang, ive grown to love the fact that wrenching on them is a common thing. it seemed like my fox and sn95s were always in need of something and it was somewhat of a bond in my eyes that i was always tinkering on them. I want to dig into this one and i like the sound of the new cammed 5.0s, i dont have a specific HP or run time goal in mind. i just want to start getting my hands on my new baby. So the question is, and has been, who makes a good cam? comp has about 3 n/a cam options for the coyote. one says great upgrade, one says big power gains and the last labeled street/strip. im thinking to stay somewhat reliable and add a good amount of power, the middle option would be best. Or is comp cams not a good fit? any other manufacturers??
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