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Old December 26th, 2008, 03:00 PM   6 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Eaton M112 on 97 Cobra


Has anyone tried to install a supercharger from an 03 or 04 cobra on a 97 Cobra. I'm thinking all i need is supercharger, intake plenum, and injectors. What else would i need and is it worth it?
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Old December 26th, 2008, 03:19 PM   #2
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lower intake manifold, plenum, maybe a throttle body, another intake(like CAI), alternator relocation, all the tensioners, possibly a different crank pulley as I beleive only the 96 corbas came with a lower pulley for a blower, and of course another tune, some vacuum lines might need to be lengthed or shortened. the whole blower cooling system, im sure there's some other difference's and stuff that will be needed, possibly another MAF, and maybe a better fuel system
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Old December 26th, 2008, 03:41 PM   #3
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Just buy a kit designed for your car. It's going to be a b***h to put it on your car. It's very difficult to track down the correct parts needed for the swap and cheaply as well. By the time when you're all said and done you'll have spent a decent chunk of money on used stuff (some new stuff) and it will take you a while to hunt everything down. A kit for your car is the best way to go to save yourself a boat load of hassle.

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Old December 26th, 2008, 05:47 PM   #4
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Easiest way to do it is pull your engine out and get terminator long block and drop it in.Even if you get 03-04 cobra supercharger that's probably 1/10 of your total swap cost.You also need 99+ cobra heads.Your bottom end and tranny are weak and those are the first things which will go after the swap.Here is the timing cover mess on 04-04 cobras



Here is the part's list that would be needed when doing the supercharged 03 cobra swap on 99-01 cobras and 03-04 Mach 1 .

(6312) Crank pulley /Harmonic Balancer
(6312B) Supercharger Crank drive pulley
(8678A) Pulley w/mount Replaces stk. alt. Pulley on 99-01 Cobra’s and 03/04 Mach 1’s
(6B209B) Pulley bridge assembly for S.C.
(8678B) Idler pulley,timing cover LH side
(6D080) Timing cover
(10A313) Upper alternator bracket
(10153) Lower alternator bracket
(10346) Alternator
1U2Z-14S411-TA Electrical connector (alt. to harmness )
(6B209A) Tensioner on timing cover
(8260) Radiator hose
(8A593) Radiator hose
(8K576) Radiator hose
(8548) Water cross over pipe
(6881) Cobra oil cooler adapter
Note: Use your stock gasket from your adapter or a leak will occur
with a Cobra gasket!
(6A642) Cobra Oil cooler
(9002) Cobra fuel tank
(9H307) Cobra fuel pump
(6F066) Eaton supercharger
(9424) Lower intake
(6K775) Garrett factory intercooler
3U2Z-14S411-JUA IAT sensor connector
(9H308A) Intercooler hard lines that hug the block
(9N491A) Intercooler hard lines that come from the h/e
(9L443A) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from the i/c adapter to i/c res.
(9L443B) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from the i/c adapter to the hard lines that hug the block
(9L443C) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from the hard line to i/c pump
(9L443D) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from hard line to hard line coming from h/e
(9L443E) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from hard line from h/e to i/c pump
(9L443F) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from hard line and connects to h/e
(9L443G) Intercooler pipe to heat Exchanger that goes from hard line and connects to h/e
(8501) Ford / Bosche water pump for intercooler
(8K226) Factory heat exchanger
(8A193) Heat exchanger mounting bracket
(8C386) 2each bracket clamps for h/e
(9N491B) Lower manifold to intercooler water adapter
(9A589) Plenum
(9E926) Throttle Body
(9B659) Intake tube from maf to t/b.
(9F715) IAC valve
(9F593) Injectors
(6F089) Boost bypass actuator
(8N500) Intercooler pump bracket
(9A825) Cruise control cable
(9A758) Throttle cable
(9728) Throttle and cruise control cable mounting bracket
(12B579) MAF
(9D475) EGR valve
(9D477) EGR tube
(6C324) PCV tubing
(9F479) Sensor on the back of the S/C
(9J432) Bracket for vacuum stuff on left side of the S/C
(9H465) Vacuum stuff
(9J459) Vacuum stuff
(9J460) Vacuum stuff
(9E498) Hose's or tube cluster of connectors for the vacuum parts above
(9F670) IAC gasket
(6020) Timing cover gasket LH side
(6020) Timing cover gasket middle
(6020) Timing cover gasket RH side
(9H486) Intercooler to S.C. gasket
(9L437) Plenum to S/C gasket
(9D476) EGR gasket
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Old December 27th, 2008, 04:01 AM   #5
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jesus, i got a headach form trying to figure out that belt system
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Old December 27th, 2008, 05:11 AM   #6
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(im saying all this in case you dont already know)

and REMEMBER, with whichever route you take, make sure youll have enough money left over to get a DYNO TUNE. i wouldnt trust using a handheld tuner or something like that after putting a blower or turbo on an engine.

and dyno tuning can be expensive too. when i had my car done, the tuner said that the basic flat rate for all cars was $400. (of course you could probably always find it for a lil cheaper)

REMEMBER-REMEMBER-REMEMBER!!!!!!!!: if you go through with your plan to put a blower on your car, DONT go driving the car hard or under heavy throttle until you get a good tune done. without a good tune being done, theres a high risk that your engine would have detonation, which can crack pistons and rods.
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Originally Posted by '97'Cobra View Post
I was too drunk even tell which hole i was gettin after.
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Old December 27th, 2008, 05:18 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by WilltheThrill View Post
(im saying all this in case you dont already know)

and REMEMBER, with whichever route you take, make sure youll have enough money left over to get a DYNO TUNE. i wouldnt trust using a handheld tuner or something like that after putting a blower or turbo on an engine.

and dyno tuning can be expensive too. when i had my car done, the tuner said that the basic flat rate for all cars was $400. (of course you could probably always find it for a lil cheaper)

REMEMBER-REMEMBER-REMEMBER!!!!!!!!: if you go through with your plan to put a blower on your car, DONT go driving the car hard or under heavy throttle until you get a good tune done. without a good tune being done, theres a high risk that your engine would have detonation, which can crack pistons and rods.
thats fucking outrageous..unless its turbo but it should be like 75 per hour at most..and turbo takes a while to get it right
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Old December 27th, 2008, 05:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by TKOTLARZ View Post
thats fucking outrageous..unless its turbo but it should be like 75 per hour at most..and turbo takes a while to get it right

if thats true, then i got fucked

im pretty sure thats what he told me. ill try to find the receipt.

hopefully 20PSIRABBIT or THEdarkness03 gets in on this thread. they had their cobras pullied and dyno tuned at the same place I did. maybe they can correct me on his prices if im wrong.
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Originally Posted by '97'Cobra View Post
I was too drunk even tell which hole i was gettin after.

Last edited by WilltheThrill; December 27th, 2008 at 05:44 AM.
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Old December 27th, 2008, 05:49 AM   #9
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yep, just looked at the receipt. he charged me $400 total for all the dyno time.
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Originally Posted by '97'Cobra View Post
I was too drunk even tell which hole i was gettin after.
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Old December 27th, 2008, 12:54 PM   #10
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thanks guys I didnt realize how much of a hassle it would be, thought i finially found a cheap way to make some decent power.
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Old December 27th, 2008, 01:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by WilltheThrill View Post
yep, just looked at the receipt. he charged me $400 total for all the dyno time.
..
how long did the tune actually take??and how many pulls did they do..cause some charge like 75 for three pulls or 75 per hour..turbos can take like 3-4 hours somtimes...and if the shop fucked you, they probably fucked the other guys to which is bullshit..i got fucked by the shop who did some of my work while i was out of state to
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Old December 27th, 2008, 01:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Gomer97 View Post
thanks guys I didnt realize how much of a hassle it would be, thought i finially found a cheap way to make some decent power.
yeah i was thinking tha same...well wat is the best bolt on for these 96-98 cobras...
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Old December 27th, 2008, 01:59 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by WilltheThrill View Post
yep, just looked at the receipt. he charged me $400 total for all the dyno time.
That sounds about right.The first time you go they start from scratch and need to get a baseline and then fine tune it from there. Whenever you mod again and go back it is always a lot less. My first time with the new set up was 400 and whenever I go back it is about 100-150 to do it correctly. This is not the time to cheap out since longevity and power are all in the tune. It is insurance that all your hard work and $$$ are paying the dividends you expected.
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Old December 27th, 2008, 07:23 PM   #14
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^ Jumper, where'd you get all your stuff done at? Did CJ's do the install/help you out? And where'd you get your dyno tune?
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Old December 28th, 2008, 07:03 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by TKOTLARZ View Post
..
how long did the tune actually take??

i cant remember for sure but it was definitely under an hour.
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Originally Posted by '97'Cobra View Post
I was too drunk even tell which hole i was gettin after.
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Old December 28th, 2008, 07:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 95SC View Post
Easiest way to do it is pull your engine out and get terminator long block and drop it in.Even if you get 03-04 cobra supercharger that's probably 1/10 of your total swap cost.You also need 99+ cobra heads.Your bottom end and tranny are weak and those are the first things which will go after the swap.
Um, no. Teskid block will handle what 99% of owners will ever consider throwing at the car; I've consistently heard it's good to over 1000hp, and Sweet says 1600. It's aluminum to the Terminator's iron, so big weight penalty to go Termie. Only advantage to the Terminator block is that it comes with forged crank, rods, and pistons, where the Teskid is forged crank only (so stuff it with forged bits).

This swap only makes sense if you've got a wrecked car to swap all the parts off of, and honestly I still wouldn't swap them into another working Cobra: I'd go get a on-its-last-leg GT to swap the drivetrain into.
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Old December 28th, 2008, 10:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
Um, no. Teskid block will handle what 99% of owners will ever consider throwing at the car; I've consistently heard it's good to over 1000hp, and Sweet says 1600. It's aluminum to the Terminator's iron, so big weight penalty to go Termie. Only advantage to the Terminator block is that it comes with forged crank, rods, and pistons, where the Teskid is forged crank only (so stuff it with forged bits).

This swap only makes sense if you've got a wrecked car to swap all the parts off of, and honestly I still wouldn't swap them into another working Cobra: I'd go get a on-its-last-leg GT to swap the drivetrain into.
+1

Weight up front is the hardest to remove, hardest to lower, and generally a road block to even better handling.

If you can make enough power to have fun with the Teksid there is no need for an Iron block. Forge the Teksid and enjoy the weight loss. If you plan on making well over 1000rwhp then get Iron if you cant tune and keep things together. A well tuned Aluminum block will last just fine. Just requires a bit more precision with crazy power levels to keep power going through the block and not into it.
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Old December 28th, 2008, 11:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
Um, no. Teskid block will handle what 99% of owners will ever consider throwing at the car; I've consistently heard it's good to over 1000hp, and Sweet says 1600. It's aluminum to the Terminator's iron, so big weight penalty to go Termie. Only advantage to the Terminator block is that it comes with forged crank, rods, and pistons, where the Teskid is forged crank only (so stuff it with forged bits).

This swap only makes sense if you've got a wrecked car to swap all the parts off of, and honestly I still wouldn't swap them into another working Cobra: I'd go get a on-its-last-leg GT to swap the drivetrain into.
I know how strong Teksid blocks are when built right,I said when he swaps 03 blower set up on his stock bottom end Teksid then it won't last long , it will most likely brake the the block too. when one of the stock rods is going to brake and kiss your block than block will have a nice little window on the side. I know about Teksid blocks as I have 4 of them in my garage.I don't even know why Ford used forged cranks in N/A Cobras,what's the purpose of having forged crank when your rods and pistons are garbage.
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Old December 28th, 2008, 11:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 95SC View Post
I know how strong Teksid blocks are when built right,I said when he swaps 03 blower set up on his stock bottom end Teksid then it won't last long , it will most likely brake the the block too. when one of the stock rods is going to brake and kiss your block than block will have a nice little window on the side. I know about Teksid blocks as I have 4 of them in my garage.I don't even know why Ford used forged cranks in N/A Cobras,what's the purpose of having forged crank when your rods and pistons are garbage.
I understand your frustration but imagine having to forge the damn crank too while you're in there. That would suck even more. At least they gave us that much eh?
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Old December 28th, 2008, 11:30 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 95SC View Post
I know how strong Teksid blocks are when built right,I said when he swaps 03 blower set up on his stock bottom end Teksid then it won't last long , it will most likely brake the the block too. when one of the stock rods is going to brake and kiss your block than block will have a nice little window on the side. I know about Teksid blocks as I have 4 of them in my garage.I don't even know why Ford used forged cranks in N/A Cobras,what's the purpose of having forged crank when your rods and pistons are garbage.
Okay, what you said earlier makes more sense, though I still would rather build a Teskid than swap a Termie.

My understanding is that the forged crank with cast rods/pistons is to create a motor capable of high rpm. If you're not needing the extra strength of forged pistons, it's just extra weight slowing you down, and N/A, these motors don't need forged pistons. However, to hold that motor together, it does need a forged crankshaft.
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