flywheel and clutch help (pics inside)
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Old June 8th, 2009, 01:05 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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flywheel and clutch help (pics inside)


I droppd the transmission yesterday, this is what i found after 1200 miles, just broke in no racing, wasnt hard on the clutch. why did this happen?

well i need a new clutch? first should i use the flywheel or just replace the friction plate? What clutch should i get? im going to be sprayin if that makes a difference



















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Old June 8th, 2009, 01:37 PM   #2
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What issues were you having with it? Are you concerned about the pucks not touching the FW at the full 100%?
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Old June 8th, 2009, 01:47 PM   #3
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pedal was hard and reverse was always shaky, whats a puck? never done a clutch before does it look bad? i was told it was. It was engagin 100%
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Old June 8th, 2009, 03:08 PM   #4
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What's the problem? Not seeing what's wrong with it. As for the shaky reverse, that's because it's a puck style clutch. I have a stage 3 as well and reverse is always like that. And the pedal is hard because that's how Specs are and it's a hard-grabbing clutch.

A "puck" style clutch is what you have there. It tends to be more of a "race" setup. Not ideal for daily/traffic driving. A more conventional "non-puck" clutch is a solid disc.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 03:11 PM   #5
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Here's what my stage 3 looked like when I took it out when the new motor went in:





I just replaced the friction disc on the flywheel. You can see it wore down to the screws that hold it on.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 03:31 PM   #6
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so that normal?? how do u know if the clutch is bad?
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Old June 8th, 2009, 03:34 PM   #7
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what stg is the clutch i have? i was told its a 2
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:01 PM   #8
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looks fine
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:13 PM   #9
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Looks fine to me...

It looks like a stage 3. I have a stage 2 sitting here and it's a solid disc. Not a puck type like you have in the pics.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:16 PM   #10
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Here's another pic of my old flywheel friction plate:

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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:19 PM   #11
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so all i need to do is buy a friction plate for the flywheel? i can use the same clutch?

one more thing, this just started about the last 10 miles i drove it, anytime i would go over 4k it sounded like something was scraping in the transmission, everything is good, just wasnt too sure about the clutch
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:20 PM   #12
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Here is a pic of my old stage 2 clutch disc and pressure plate. Notice the dark hot-spots on the pressure plate? And notice how the disc is one solid round piece? Not pucks like yours.


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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:21 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 99blkcobra View Post
so all i need to do is buy a friction plate for the flywheel? i can use the same clutch?

one more thing, this just started about the last 10 miles i drove it, anytime i would go over 4k it sounded like something was scraping in the transmission, everything is good, just wasnt too sure about the clutch
Can you take a macro close-up pic of the friction plate on the flywheel? Hard to see in the pics from far away. Scraping noise? Hmmm. Anything else you can describe about it? This stage three is a noisy clutch over-all.

Honestly, it looks like yours is wearing more evenly than mine was. I think it was torqued incorrectly the first time when they put the clutch in.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 99blkcobra View Post
pedal was hard and reverse was always shaky, whats a puck? never done a clutch before does it look bad? i was told it was. It was engagin 100%
It looks fine to me just looking at the pictures...unless, is the friction plate or clutch pads worn down past the rivets/bolts? Can't tell from the pictures. The pedal is going to be very hard, it has to be because that looks like a Stage 3 SPEC to me which is rated to hold 695 ft-lbs of torque. Shaky in reverse, totally normal for that kind of clutch.

Depending on your horsepower/torque you can probably drop down to a SPEC Stage 2+ or RAM Powergrip clutch for a car that sees a lot of street use. Replace the friction surface of your flywheel if you switch clutches though.

The key is you want slightly more clutch then you need, you don't want to be putting out power too near the maximum hold rating for the clutch...but at the same you do not want TOO much clutch if you drive it on the road often.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:30 PM   #15
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why would the car drive normal in reverse then start shaking? i drove good from about the 800-900 miles on the clutch.

I also took a better look at the flywheel friction plate looks like its lightly scratchd from new







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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:30 PM   #16
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Nicely put. Well said.

I think you said you're at 380 to the wheels from a previous post? Or was that another guy with a black '99. I can't remember.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:31 PM   #17
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That friction plate looks brand new still! Look at the original pics I posted. You can see where it was actually starting to wear the bolt heads that hold the plate to the flywheel.

As for the shaking in reverse, I can't give a "reason", but it's just what a clutch like this does. It grips very hard and doesn't like to be slipped like lighter pressure clutches. If I just drop the clutch, or do it fairly quickly, or if I rev it higher than normal, then it doesn't shake in reverse. And it only shakes like that in reverse for me.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:36 PM   #18
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i have about 350 to the wheels, not sure. im doing a 100 shot real soon
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Old June 8th, 2009, 04:51 PM   #19
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Well if it's a daily driver and you do much traffic driving, you might want to look into a more forgiving clutch. And I don't *think* that Spec makes a stage 2 clutch that is a puck style, but I'm not totally sure.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 05:27 PM   #20
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i dont mind driving it, i just wanted to make sure thats how it was. I have 4.30 solid bushings so my car isnt street friendly but i fit in. Thanks for ur help

one final thing, i heard i had to mark where i took it off exactly from the flywheel to the block, will it make a difference the way it goes in?
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