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#101 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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lol it was over 100 degrees out today. I put in the sway bar bushings and end link kit. the car sits lower up front now. the end linkes are made for the car being lowered 1 3/4 in or more. the problem is still there however. it seemed to be unaffected.... I still need to put in the urethane steering rack bushings. the stock ones look okay though and i tightened them up. had no affect. i hate this problem.
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#102 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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Strut Mount ? on bumpy roads the strut is putting more pressure on the plate so it doesnt do the problem. on smooth road the strut is popping in/on the mount ? what do u think ?
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#103 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,900
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If it was a mount, typically you would hear it more on rougher roads, because it is pounding it. And it would be louder. Rougher roads normally causes more violent piston movement in the strut and/or shock.
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#104 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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inner tie rods ? control arms ? trans mount ?
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#105 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,900
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You said you had the front end checked, right?
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#106 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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I just checked the whole front suspension. everything was really tight. control arm bushings looked good. strut mount looked good. ball joints looked good. outter tie rods good. now, the inner tie rods, if i grab the tie rod with my hand, and try to jerk it, should it move ? I grabbed the driver side inner tie rod with my hand and i could jerk it back n forth.... looks like i need new motor mounts too... trans mount looked good.
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#107 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,900
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When you wiggle the tire side to side, you'd be able to feel something is loose. To properly do it, it's a 2 man job. 1 to wiggle, and 1 to feel for looseness.
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#108 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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Ok so me and my dad went in the garage. i locked the steering wheel with the front end in the air. I had him wiggle at 12 oclock and 6 oclock to check ball joints, both sides were good. then i had him wiggle 3 oclock and 9 oclock. both sides would move in sync and you would here a clunking at the steering shaft. seemed normal. I then had him hold the steering wheel tight against the lock so it would no move, and i wiggled, what i felt seemed normal. both sides would barreellyyy move together, just the slack in the steering, like driveshaft slack "slap." i then went under the car while he was holding the steering wheel and grabbed the inner tie rods with my hands and jerked them around. the passenger side was solid, the driver side would pop and move in its socket slightly. I watched the outter tie rod ball joints and they looked good. but the driver side inner tie rod is definately not solid. I think replacing the inner tie rods will relieve my problem. what do you think ??
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#109 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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should i replace both outter tie rods when i replace both inners ?
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#110 |
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Enthusiast
99 SVT Cobra
N/A Yet
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McHenry, iLLinois
Posts: 546
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Just a question, does it sound like metal clunking together for you?
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#111 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,900
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Personally, I don't think that is your noise. But if they are worn then replace them. Typically I don't replace the outers if they are tight when I replace inners (only if customer requested). But then that is your call. If you have the extra cash, get em, if not, don't. BTW don't buy the cheap stuff. They are cheap for a reason. Make sure you align it after. You may get it close, but even close can wear your tires down.
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#112 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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He was mentioning it to be a popping noise. pop.....pop....pop.pop........pop. On smooth roads. Doesn't hear it on bumpy ones.
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#113 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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they best way i can describe the sound is like a looseness like a ball joint loose in its socket
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#114 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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I think im goin to replace them and go from there. so hard to diagnose...
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#115 |
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Regular
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DALLAS TX
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i have rhe some problem it the top strut mount mine had a half inch of slack did the same shit i took it to a tire shop they hit it with an impact problem solved
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#116 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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oh really ? yeah i checked my strut mounts they were fine i hit them with my 450 ft/lb impact gun and they were tight. If the inner tie rods dont do the trick then it has to be something with the struts which is what 1rnkpny first suspected was the problem...
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#117 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
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so i installed the new inner tie rods. the problem is still there like normal. its gotta be the strut or strut mount ? somethin to do with the strut ?
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#118 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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I've already stated what it would most likely be. So, let me know when the noise is gone.
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#119 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126
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I think your right. I only spent $100 dollars so far. So now its time for the expensive stuff. New struts, shocks, and cc plates. Eibach strut and shock kit made for my lowering springs or Bilstein HD ?
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#120 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2007 G9 Eye Catcher
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,900
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Eibach is a great product. Bilsteins are good, same as Tokico.
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