99/01 Cobra Eaton Swap Write-Up - Page 4
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Old September 5th, 2009, 09:06 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Cricket View Post
Lol no you don't, but seriously talk to wraither. Hell just being around him while he is doing shit with electronics you learn stuff. Trust me. I've been there. I know more now. Not a lot, but I know a lot more than I used to.
i was just being sarcastic i know he means no harm,and yes he has been helping me alot through pm!!! hes a good guy to know thats for sure!!
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Old November 19th, 2009, 11:58 PM   #62
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Not bad that would be kinda of half sleeper
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Old February 7th, 2010, 09:05 PM   #63
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I say forget the heaton and drop in the Kenne or whipple and replace rods and pistons and yeah Id say that would be considered a real sick sleeper. I say this because if you want to be comeptative in todays C6 Z06, LS3, 08 Shellby gt500,2010 Shelby Gt500, GT35R Evos, 02 03 Whipple/Kenne Cobras infested street and all the other 500hp and up street cars the heaton is just a waste work.
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Old February 8th, 2010, 08:45 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by CammedMysticCobra View Post
I say forget the heaton and drop in the Kenne or whipple and replace rods and pistons and yeah Id say that would be considered a real sick sleeper. I say this because if you want to be comeptative in todays C6 Z06, LS3, 08 Shellby gt500,2010 Shelby Gt500, GT35R Evos, 02 03 Whipple/Kenne Cobras infested street and all the other 500hp and up street cars the heaton is just a waste work.
Yeah, but us 99/01 guys will have to upgrade the internals to do that.
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Old September 28th, 2010, 02:18 PM   #65
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Awesome thread. Glad it covers all the little things that usually leave you scratching your head. Hope to start collecting parts soon. Though my build should be a little more intense. Whereas you guys are already starting with the DOHC, I still have a SOHC. I'll need all the parts listed plus a donor engine from a Continental (head swap) or Aviator/Marauder (engine swap). Not to mention I think I'll buy a Cobra harness to save myself the hassle.

Also glad to see you can run a fairly conservative tune with stock internals without the engine BTFU (BlowingTheFuckUp). I should definitely be safe if I do the head swap and end up with a 8.5:1 CR.

Then the terminator clone will be complete!
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Old September 28th, 2010, 08:53 PM   #66
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Good thread. I keep wondering if I should put a blower on mine. I really don't want to mess anything up on my mint 30k mile car, or hurt the motor, but I loveee the way the Eatons sound.
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Old September 29th, 2010, 01:46 PM   #67
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I'm goin' Eaton swap once I finish up some other priorities at the moment. Have my heart set on it and won't go centri. I refuse lol
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Old September 29th, 2010, 11:05 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Lefty View Post
I'm goin' Eaton swap once I finish up some other priorities at the moment. Have my heart set on it and won't go centri. I refuse lol
Same here. All my friends keep trying to talk me into a turbo, or Procharger or other Centri, but I love the way the roots blowers sound on these cars. That Kenne Bell 2.1 99/01 Cobra kit would be nice, but dayuummm 5g's.
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Old September 29th, 2010, 11:52 PM   #69
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Agreed! I'll be putting a roots blower on my Cobra, but first I want to get it off dd status, so a second car is coming before the extra power.
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Old September 30th, 2010, 07:18 PM   #70
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5g's ain't worth it. You can piece a kit together for around $3k.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 01:42 AM   #71
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The eaton swap has takin my mechanic 6 months to do but he is also doing a few other things but still should not take this long, I usually do my own work but i dont have a lift and all the tools to complete this and its just slightly out of my skills, if i had bought a kenne bell or a whipple or a vortech I could have just done it myself, however my car has been there since june and its just about complete there are only 2 or 3 simple things to complete and then a tune but hes having a problem, HOOD CLEARANCE, The hood is hitting the supercharger pulley, but i think even if it didnt hit the pulley it would hit the IAC before it could close, I told him to take the insulator out but he hasnt done that yet and from what ive seen even if he does theirs still goin to be a clearance issue, Ive spent the whole day doing research today and what Ive come up with is to change the motor mounts to lower the engine however to my knowledge you need a 1 degree pitch on the motor to make up for any slack in the driveline although I think you can still get this 1 degree pitch even if you lower the engine with the motor mounts. Also I have read something bout goin with an aftermarket k member and lowering the motormounts. I also thought up myself that maybe he didnt grind the knock sensors down in the valley of the engine but I think Im way off there. It just kind of looks like my eaton is sitting higher then other ppls but I dont know bout that either. He keeps telling me to get a cowl hood but I dont want to because everybody I see that does these eaton swaps can fit everything under their stock hoods. Maybe they have to cut a little I dont know. Also I looked at some pictures and I think there is another hole you can put the motor mounts in on the body itself but i think youll have to bolt that in and then bolt the motor mounts to the engine. I think If he lowers the engine somehow maybe with motor mounts(if aftermarket k member is required for this Ill do it) or lowers the supercharger down a bit and maybe does some cutting to the hood as well as taking the insulator out everything can squeeze under there. Any help would be greatly appreciated I apologize for the length of this post lol. thanx for your time guys.
Ugh I cant take this no more this need to be done and I need my car back.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 08:22 AM   #72
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What stock hood are you using? I know it won't fit under the GT, you have to cut out a section and get a longer hood scoop. I know TorkTech sells them. If you're not using the GT and all the mounting is correct, modifying the hood (or swapping it) with a scoop or blister would be easiest and cheapest, especially if someone else is doing the work. Hell, cut a hole and put one of those cheap fake scoops over it. People might get a good laugh until you blow their doors off with that Eaton!

Just my opinion. But good luck! Hope you don't have to go all the way to getting a new K-frame.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 09:23 AM   #73
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My only experiences with the Eaton swap has been with Mach 1's, and of course, the Mach 1 shaker hood doesn't have that issue. Can't say that I've ever seen a finished Eaton swap on an '01 Cobra. Would a Terminator hood fit your car? If not, how about a 2000 Cobra R hood? I'm just throwing ideas at you, but you've probably already thought about them.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 10:22 AM   #74
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I've seen Eaton 01 Cobras with the stock hood. Don't know what's with your car. Also 6 months, holy cow. I hope to god me doing mine doesn't take that long. I was following a post on SVTP a month or two ago, and a guy dropped his 01 Cobra off at a shop for an Eaton swap on Monday, and picked it up and posted dyno videos Friday.
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Old January 8th, 2011, 06:40 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by TRMach1 View Post
My only experiences with the Eaton swap has been with Mach 1's, and of course, the Mach 1 shaker hood doesn't have that issue. Can't say that I've ever seen a finished Eaton swap on an '01 Cobra. Would a Terminator hood fit your car? If not, how about a 2000 Cobra R hood? I'm just throwing ideas at you, but you've probably already thought about them.
Yea thats what my mechanic keeps telling me get a Cobra R hood. I wanna keep my stock 01 cobra hood. Please give my ideas for lowering the engine or supercharger to fit everything
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Old January 8th, 2011, 06:42 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
What stock hood are you using? I know it won't fit under the GT, you have to cut out a section and get a longer hood scoop. I know TorkTech sells them. If you're not using the GT and all the mounting is correct, modifying the hood (or swapping it) with a scoop or blister would be easiest and cheapest, especially if someone else is doing the work. Hell, cut a hole and put one of those cheap fake scoops over it. People might get a good laugh until you blow their doors off with that Eaton!

Just my opinion. But good luck! Hope you don't have to go all the way to getting a new K-frame.
What do you mean by getting a new K frame? New k member? Somebody told me spacer on my kmember may work I think they might 2 cuz if I do that I may be able to lower the engine down A little. Please help guys I really want my car outta there its been there 6 months now Im gettin tired of it being there but he has done alot of stuff but still shouldnt take 6 months. But please I need ideas guys comon. I know somebody has an idea of what to do somebody had to have run into this problem.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 02:08 AM   #77
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Off topic, I got a few Eaton swap parts in the mail yesterday.

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Old January 9th, 2011, 02:56 PM   #78
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Yeah, K-frame, K-member, same thought. Hope you don't have to go that route, because you might find tons of little problems that arise due to a small change in geometry.

As an easier fix I might have an idea. If you're pretty handy with body work, or know someone who is, you could move the central region of your Cobra hood upward, effectively creating a cowl effect without changing the appearance too drastically. Basically cut along the ridges, and transpose it upward until the S/C fits, then glass/weld in the gaps, depending on material of the hood. I'd rather change appearance parts than mechanical, but thats just me.
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Old January 19th, 2011, 10:12 PM   #79
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Hey Lefty- how has it been finding all the little parts for this swap? I mean things like the studs for the timing cover, brackets, oil cooler, etc? What's the cost, and more importantly difficulty associated with that? ...this could also be to anyone else who has done the swap.

I'm looking at costs and if you have to go to the dealer for some of these the price would be close for building as opposed to a liftout. As is the price of building a longblock is the same as buying one. If the accessories nickel and dime you to death it might be cheaper to get the liftout.

But that said, I've come to the decision, or rather gone back to, wanting to build it. Before it was out of necessity, but now I have the cash, and swapping a lift out seems almost too easy. If things go smoothly I could be completely done over a weekend; it feels like cheating. I think I'd rather put in the effort, it'd keep me occupied and give me a little more pride in the finished product.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 12:02 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
Hey Lefty- how has it been finding all the little parts for this swap? I mean things like the studs for the timing cover, brackets, oil cooler, etc? What's the cost, and more importantly difficulty associated with that? ...this could also be to anyone else who has done the swap.

I'm looking at costs and if you have to go to the dealer for some of these the price would be close for building as opposed to a liftout. As is the price of building a longblock is the same as buying one. If the accessories nickel and dime you to death it might be cheaper to get the liftout.

But that said, I've come to the decision, or rather gone back to, wanting to build it. Before it was out of necessity, but now I have the cash, and swapping a lift out seems almost too easy. If things go smoothly I could be completely done over a weekend; it feels like cheating. I think I'd rather put in the effort, it'd keep me occupied and give me a little more pride in the finished product.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.
The way I'm going, I'll probably have 2,000 or so into parts for my swap..if that. Would I rather have a 03/04 complete engine? Yes. Can I afford to drop 4000-6000 for a pull out? No. But I can afford to piece together an Eaton swap over the winter/spring, so that's the route I decided to take. If down the road I find a 03/04 Engine that I can afford, I'll snag it and sell my Eaton powered 01 power plant.
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