cobra subframe install help
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Old March 10th, 2010, 02:54 AM   #1
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cobra subframe install help


I am in the market for a set of subframe connectors and i am looking at a few different ones but most of the descriptions i read say that you need to alter the subframe connector or the transmission crossbrace or mount ( not sure which it is). I am just looking for someone with hands on experience with it.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 03:00 AM   #2
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Sorry i forgot to add that they say its only on the SN95 Cobra that you have to alter whatever it is they say to alter. PLease someone give me some info.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 12:06 PM   #3
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You will have to cut notches out in the subframe connectors to fit the transmission crossmember mounting points. I purchased Steeda and I had to cut notches out with power tools to make it fit. It's definitely a job and you need more than a hand wrench for. If you have zero experience have a shop do this. It's going to take some time with a welder and patience with a grinder or something to get them to fit correctly. You'll definitely see when you go to put these up under the car exactly where it's hitting and not connecting to. Even after you cut the notches out you still realize that nothing fits perfect (but it works.)

The only way to go is with real full length connectors though. I wouldn't bother with those bolt-on ones. Do it right the first time so you don't have to later.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 12:11 PM   #4
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Yeah, I had full-length weld-ins put in my '98 Cobra. You do need to notch it for the trans crossmember.

Honestly, unless you have a lift, I wouldn't install SFCs yourself. If you do it on the ground, when you lift the car, you're flexing the chassis - that means that you're gonna weld in the flex, which is precisely what you don't want to do.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 12:49 PM   #5
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ok thanks. I do have multiple lifts at my disposal and am an experienced welder. Definately wont be too difficult for me to pull off. i just wanted to double check and make sure that there wasnt a different part number or anything. reps
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Old March 10th, 2010, 01:10 PM   #6
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Hope it's a drive on lift.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 06:22 PM   #7
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indeed it is
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:42 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=Lefty;2700448]Hope it's a drive on lift.[/QUOTE

+1 I was just gonna say if its a 4 point you can just as easily lift it up with tweak in the chassis if you don't have it exactly the same on all four points
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:52 PM   #9
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No i know the install process i was just looking more into the modifying of the subframe connectors in order to fit. Ive read all the threads about SFC's but im wondering if the cheap ones will work decent until i order my kenny brown matrix brace. Or if the $50-$80 ones are just junk.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:59 PM   #10
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They are not junk if they are welded in but it's kinda pointless to weld them in if your gonna replace them later. And it's better if they have brackets to tie in the with the seat bolts that will give you better chassis rigidity
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:35 PM   #11
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no im not replacing them. the extreme matrix brace is an add-on to an SFC. Kenny Brown sells subframe connectors too but im looking to autcross this year with just the subframe connectors then this coming winter add the kenny brown jack rails and matrix brace. check the link and look at the pics and hopefully youll understand what i mean. point is im trying to save some moneyz.

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Old March 10th, 2010, 10:36 PM   #12
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The differences between the cheap-o SFCs and the $120 dollar ones near as I can tell is in the stiffness/strength of the SFC and how well they fit. I like Maximum Motorsports stuff, and it's race-proven. I've heard from several people that the Steeda SFCs fit a little better, but I've never tried them.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by brharris777 View Post
no im not replacing them. the extreme matrix brace is an add-on to an SFC. Kenny Brown sells subframe connectors too but im looking to autcross this year with just the subframe connectors then this coming winter add the kenny brown jack rails and matrix brace. check the link and look at the pics and hopefully youll understand what i mean. point is im trying to save some moneyz.

Extreme Matrix Brace | Shop Kenny Brown
wow, i thought KB went out of business years ago. I had to hunt all over for the extreme matrix about 3 years ago. Its bad ass, and jacking rails rule!

i put some MM subframes on a 96 cobra. The directions said something about notching, but i don't think we had to do anything drastic, if anything at all. They did require a few good whacks with a 10lb sledge to bend them right.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:46 PM   #14
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Yeah, no experience with MM ones but I'm not sure how you get around notching.

There's a rule somewhere that says nothing ever fits right at all. Same with the rule of, "If you take it apart you will have like 15 bolts left over even though you assembled it right."
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Old March 11th, 2010, 04:40 PM   #15
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i welded on some Mac tubular sfcs
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Old March 12th, 2010, 12:27 AM   #16
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well thank you all for your help and as long as were on the topic does anyone have any info on the matrix brace and jacking rails. i love how they look because they look like one of those things that has to work.
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Old March 12th, 2010, 12:00 PM   #17
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I noticed a small improvement with the matrix and jacking rails, but not near as much as the subframes alone. The jacking rails are very nice and make lifting the car easy. I marked the balance point and jack the entire side off one point.

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Old March 12th, 2010, 09:04 PM   #18
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YAY!!! PICTURES!!! .
scale of 1-10 how much did it imporve chassis stiffness?
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Old March 12th, 2010, 11:08 PM   #19
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The subframes alone were like a 6/10 and the addition of the matrix was like a 2/10 (10 = big difference). Having jacking rails makes it totally worth it, even if it didn't stiffen the chassis at all. I bet i could get my car on jack stands in under 5 minutes. I guess if you had a long range low profile floor jack you wouldn't need them.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 02:36 PM   #20
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great thanks for all the info. reps for all
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