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Old September 8th, 2010, 08:12 PM   #1
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head cooling mod


im doing the head cooling mod on my cobra and i dont know exactly how to take out the freeze plug

its the evenflow generation 2 the one that hooks up next to the intake manifold
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Old September 9th, 2010, 09:12 AM   #2
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With a small chisel, right on the lip of the freeze plug at 9 o'clock hit it, the bottom should push into the head and the top should be sticking out. Take a pair of pliers and remove. Done
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Old September 10th, 2010, 08:54 PM   #3
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i just did the mod tonight. i unfortunately tapped the plug down the bore. so i drilled a hole in it, threaded a screw in and pried it right out. came out pretty easy.
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Old September 10th, 2010, 11:53 PM   #4
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can this be done on b head cobras
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Old September 11th, 2010, 02:53 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mystk96 View Post
can this be done on b head cobras
doesnt need it. only early 03 cobras really have problems
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Old September 11th, 2010, 10:18 AM   #6
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^what he said
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Old September 11th, 2010, 10:47 AM   #7
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how do i get mine to run cool when sitting it likes to run hot when sitting in traffic
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Old September 11th, 2010, 01:02 PM   #8
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Put a new thermostat in.
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Old September 11th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #9
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what about 03 machs? do they need this?
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Old September 11th, 2010, 07:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rst1523 View Post
what about 03 machs? do they need this?
If it is stock, you don't

With a poweradder, they have the same problem as 03 cobras.

Sometime I want to try Evan's Coolant....its a non water coolant and boils at a higher temp....
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Old September 11th, 2010, 07:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mystk96 View Post
how do i get mine to run cool when sitting it likes to run hot when sitting in traffic
why are you getting hot in traffic? Is your cobra stock?
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Old September 12th, 2010, 01:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by rst1523 View Post
what about 03 machs? do they need this?
03 Machs and Cobras have the same exact heads. But since the Mach is putting down less power it's not usually a problem like it is with the Terminator.
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Old September 12th, 2010, 09:58 AM   #13
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stock you mean stock cooling system yes is it fi no... just suspension geared and exhaust
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Old September 12th, 2010, 10:53 AM   #14
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Try the weter water from advance auto and run 160* stat.
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Old September 14th, 2010, 11:37 PM   #15
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dont go to a 160 without a tune or if you drive the car in the cold.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 12:55 AM   #16
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why so
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Old September 15th, 2010, 01:14 AM   #17
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tune and fan work together with temp settings. if too cold, fan wont work right, engine wont run right because out of parameters.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 03:58 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
tune and fan work together with temp settings. if too cold, fan wont work right, engine wont run right because out of parameters.
It might actually be better....the ecu will enrich the a/f mixture.

Could be a ghetto way to more horsepower.

Dodge truck homos do that same thing by moving the temperature gauge to cooler coolant.

I would predict 5-10 hp more.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 05:07 AM   #19
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uh, no. if too cool the ecu will not allow for OL operations or wont let it work correctly. the mopar guys dont move the gauge, they change stat and do the "power wire" mod. the little more fuel from tricking the computer comes from messing with the IAT. that is the power wire mod guys do, some guys do it on the mustangs as well. the mopars are worse than the fords when they are too cool to run OL operations, but do have a lower setting on temp where they will allow for it. i have a dodge truck, know them things pretty well too.
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Last edited by SWEET2KSTANG; September 15th, 2010 at 05:12 AM.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 05:39 AM   #20
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if you are having problems with cooling and arent running incredibly high compression or at rediculously high rpms you have other issues. Ford designed these cooling systems and chose the oem spec thermostat for a reason, engines have a sweet spot in their operating temperatures and the thermostat is designed to keep it in that range. Opening the thermostat too soon can cause over cooling in the block and heads which has the potential to make even more problems than over heating. Wetter water is a joke and some of the trace additives can actually cause corrosion problems in your heater core and radiator but mostly its dyed ethylene glycol mixed with water which in the everyday terms is 50/50 coolant. If youre overheating in traffic, check your fan circuits, and test your cooling system for 1. antifreeze to water ratio, the money spot for coolant boiling point and freeze protection is exactly 50/50. 2. pressure, if youre surge tank cap isnt holding the spec 15 psi. then your venting out slow boil coolant vapors and slowly losing coolant. and pressure test the system for leaks, that ones pretty obvious.

sorry i ranted, just finished going over this stuff in school last week.
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Last edited by brharris777; September 15th, 2010 at 05:43 AM.
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